New to helis and have been told from the git-go to keep trim all the way down..as it don't use it. It seems so far in flying to obtain hover, stick placement hits the hover either too high or too low. Once I get an around hover height I will trim it in to the stick placement, useually it is almost half way up the trims setting, acheiving then a good hover. If trouble arises I try to cut off both throttle and trim at the same time. How do you all handle this? Can a switch on the CX2 TX cut off motors instead? Please advise.

Thank you!

I dont use throttle trim at all because if I get in trouble I dont trust myself to kill that slider as well quick enough.

So, to try and find the hover sweet spot I have done a mod on the tx to remove/smooth the teeth of the stick. It is working. Search the forum - it is any easy mod and there are pics to follow.

I leave mine in the middle and use fuses =) they react much faster than I can, and they also react if the radio were ever to get a hit or glitch or something. I am flying a cp pro though. I have heard that someone has done the fuse mod for the cx though. That's what I would check out.

The throttle kill you are talking about is called throttle hold, and I am not sure that it is on the cx2 remote or can be enabled with a hack or whatever. If you upgrade to a dx7 then you'll have it. The dx6 is not compatible with the cx2 so you would have to replace the receiver if you went that way.

Hopefull that helps a bit.

Transmitter Mod – No More Thumb Cramps for Gramps

About the throttle stick ratchet action. That ratchet is a real problem for heli pilots. My stable hover altitude is between two notches. The ratchet is fine for airplanes, but for the rest of us, there are three remedies. Pick one. Remove the back cover of the transmitter. Loosen the screw that holds the brass spring blade that makes the throttle all ratchety. That’s fix #1. But the screw is not tight. Maybe that’s not too good. While the screw is loose, use needle nose pliers and smush the jog in the end of the spring blade so it does not engage the teeth. Now tighten the screw. That’s #2. Or you can remove the spring blade and turn it over and re-install it. That’s #3. Pick one and tighten the screw and put the transmitter back together. Aggravation gone. Cost, nothing.


There was an article discussing the removal of the springs that hold the transmitter sticks on-center. The author recommends removing the springs. Do they actually help us poor stupid humans fly? I dunno. I do know that I fight them all the time. Maybe I wish they weren’t there at all. Hmmm. I'd sort of like something to center the sticks when I start up, but I guess that's just a crutch. Take the back off of the transmitter. Note where the springs are fastened and note that the spring mounts are hooked to little tabs. And the tabs can be adjusted using the screws all bright and shiny. As you screw the screws, the spring relaxes. When you screw the screws all the way, there is just the slightest amount of pull from the springs. Just enough to let you know where the center is for the stick, but you don’t have to fight it. That’s where my transmitter is set. I’m happy. Happy is good.

And fuses are no doubt a very good idea, although I don't use them. I'm not arrogant. I'm lazy.

Imadot,

Concerning throttle trim,,, just practice turning the throttle stick and throttle trim down as fast as you can, after awhile it becomes a habit.. Of course with the heli turned off.

Advantage::: With throttle trim at mid point, you'll see that you'll have more head spead and a bit more pitch. Makes it easier to fly and control,, Sometimes, I'll put the throttle trim full up, just experiment with it and you'll be amazed at the difference in perfomance between no throttle trim,, mid point and full throttle trim...

Give it a try,

Dave / Choppersrule
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An off the wall thought on heli throttle adjustment for hovering and motor kill. The problem is a need for a more accessable throttle trim adjustment. What about a thin carbon tube cut 1/2"and glued or epoxy to the trim slider so that you can bump it up or down with just the tip of your fingers. Throttle trim is such an critical element to smooth flying. My last flight was a yoyo affair.

thanks

Imadot,

Adding a tube to the trim lever would be a good experiment, worse thing that could happen is it wouldn't hold secure enough..

Secondly, if your last flight was like a yo-yo, it's not the throttle trim, once you set it to full down, mid point or full trim, it doesn't vary.

Your yoyo effect is being caused by something else, either electrical or mechanical. A main motor could be going bad, or a servo going bad. Hard landings can cause the internal gears to wear/split/crack or break off..

Rotor head assembly could be sticking, or to much play in the grips and rotor hub

Dave / Choppersrule

I have been learning to hover my BCP with the throttle trim set at the lowest setting. I would recommend that you set you throttle trim at the lowest setting that allows you too hover (on a fully charged batt.) at about half throttle and leave it there while you learn. Changing the throttle trim often requires a change in the other trim settings (as well as the gyro and mixer settings) which just makes things more complicated for me. Keeping the throttle trim at a "fixed" position allows me to spend more time hovering and less time making trim adjustments. This is just my 0.02 worth.

When I used the original CPP radio, I had found a habit that worked well for me.

I started by pushing the throttle trim as high up as I could, without the main motor moving at all. That was just below 50%. Then I used the stick to start the main motor and get going. This way I was relatively sure that if I had a hard landing, binding the head, I could just pull down the stick. Even though I had not 'turned off' the radio signal to the main motor, it didn't have enough current to try to turn against the bind.

I was very happy with this setup. And yes, it makes a big difference.


Then I bought a real radio (DX7). Haven't even looked at the original radio since. ;-)

Biker-74