I was reassembling my CX2 tonight (working on variations of the flybar mod) and happen to notice something very interesting. The links that go from the swash plate to the lower set of blades (I guess would be some type of pitch/change link to us helicopter guys and gals) have two different size slots in them. One of the slots is used for a small piece of plastic that comes out from the outer shaft to keep the blades and the swash plate spinning at the same rate. The part that I am talking about can be seen just above the highest piece of the body of the aircraft just below the lower set of rotors. This piece can be mounted either way using either the longer slots or the shorter ones. This will drastically effect the motion that is allowed for the link to move. One of mine was on one way the the other was on the other way.

I was wondering if any one had noticed this and found any more use out of it?

Just a note for new CX2 owners: I was one of the people that moved their servo out a hole on the pitch horn (wich worked well for me at first). But now that I started with variations of the flybar, I realize that this is the way to go and not the pitch horn. The bottom line is: Moving the pitch horn = More clack of DEATH!

The extra slot is interesting. I never noticed it before. That may take some experimenting. Or better yet, you experiment and let us know if we should continue with the research or just help you bury the remains. LOL
Moving links on the horns. Some swear by it, but it's just a temporary fix as you've discovered. And the clack gets expensive, as you noted. If performance was that easy, we wouldn't need this forum, would we?
So tell us about your flybar mods. What are you doing and how is it working? Obviously I'm interested. Getting the heli to stand vertical is a rush. Getting it back on the ground in good order is a real challenge. Yes the CX does invert - just before it hits the dirt.
Soloboss

Are you refering to item#15 elfh1217, if so I saw that
when I changed to blue alum swash, head, and lower
head. It was very tight and allows no movement and
binds. The longer slot is the one you want, the other
is, my guess weight savings, or just there for looks.

I'm setup using the 2nd hole out on the horn, and
I fly outside a lot, 200 feet up and it's a blast....
no flybar weights and no clack of death yet....
I run the big motor and cf tail..with a 1250 mAh,
which I need for any wind.

One thing is important, setup your swash perfectly
and alway have straight fly bar....I straighten it
myself for while, but now no crashes no need to.

fly high, be safe! later, bud

Since the lower rotor blade holder is mounted (set screwed) to the outer shaft, pushing on that
little piece sticking out of it (drive shaft of the lower rotor head) might cause...

[ul] [*] Seperated swash plates. (I have even read it can seperate the aluminum ones).[*] Servo gear and servo parts to be stressed or broken.[*] Stripped servo horns, and or pushrod damage.
[/ul]

And probably other things I havn't considered yet. In the the manual (exploded view last page) it shows it
long slot down. So long slot through the drive shaft.
The long slot is so the swash linkage will have full movement from the servos to the blades.


Maybe they made them that way so you COULD put them on wrong.
But who knows why the extra slot is there.

So I took a few minutes (and I do mean a few) to look this over today and with the linkages in the first hole of the servo pitch horn (stock) no matter wich way you put these parts on does not effect the movement of the servo or make it bind in any way. This leads me to think (initial opinion now) that it really does not matter wich way they go on as long as your using the stock setting on the servo arm and you put them both on the same way (for weight and balance). If you do use the second hole on the servo arm than they should definately be installed with the larger slot down.

As far as flying out side goes I rarely fly indoors other than in a hangar during lunch time. I used the helicopter with the servo linkage in the second arm of the pitch horn for about 3 months now flying almost every day with absolutely no clack. The clack actually came when I removed the weights from the stock flybar and just left the rubber ends on. This made a MAJOR improvement in flight capability but the much faster forward air speeds led to more blade flex wich led to......CLACK!!!!, CRASH, BURNT OUT 4-in-1, ORDER MOSFET, REPLACE MOSFET, INSTALL 3A FUSES, SHORTEN FLYBAR WITH CP WEIGHTS, to NOW. Testing continues and flight capabilities improve daily.

If you really want to see if you have beaten the CLACK this is how I do it: Get the heli in full forward flight (Low altitude full Fwd RT stick combined with Full FWD LT stick), Then once it has achieved max speed quickly pull full back on the right stick. If there is no clack bring the heli to a stable hover about 8ft off of the ground. Now, fly the heli in reverse at full speed completing turns and using times when you are at full left stick. Bring the heli to a stable hover approx 30-40 ft off of the ground. competely dump power and about 10 ft from the ground give it full left stick. Obviously use good judgement on this!!!!! If you dont feel comfortable doing it DONT! If there is no clack you are probably good.

so what i am getting from this is that if you remove the bar on the upper part of the heli then it is good times when flying? I have a CX and was wondering if this would do anything to make it fly better??? The stabelizer bar does come in the way sometimes when trying to do stunts, I know I tried to to a skid/ spin turn and every time i tried it the stupid bar would hit the lower blades and bring the heli to the ground[:@]. JKEP44 has a prety scary idea for testing to make shure there is no clack. I would not take my CX up that high any day, personal opinion. good fourm. mini T