CX2 problems
#1
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From: Walnut Cove,
NC
Hey guys!
I have a problem with my CX2. the last couple of times that I have flown it, it wants to move around, impossible to hover, I have tried to set the trims and such to no avail. and after a few minutes of trying to straiten it out, the blades hit and fly into pieces! I know that there may be an issue with the blades are not tracking correctly, how do you correct this on the CX/CX2? Please help, I want to learn how to fly and this is not helping.
I have a problem with my CX2. the last couple of times that I have flown it, it wants to move around, impossible to hover, I have tried to set the trims and such to no avail. and after a few minutes of trying to straiten it out, the blades hit and fly into pieces! I know that there may be an issue with the blades are not tracking correctly, how do you correct this on the CX/CX2? Please help, I want to learn how to fly and this is not helping.
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From: Cleveland, UNITED KINGDOM
It could be a multitued of things here what you will have to do is explain its movements with more detail
When you say all over the place do you mean forward / backwards or is it spinning on its own axis etc
Blade clacking ( when the upper and lower hit ) accurs when there is too much input to correct. The easiest way to fix this problem is to get an extended inner shaft to increase the distance between the upper and lower rotors, but flying indoors this should not be required as your stick input should never need to get them that far. I take it that its not spinning on its axis (yawing) because you mentioned the blade clacking.
As far as tracking the upper rotors ( you cant with lower).
On top of the upper head there is a small link linking the metal flybar to the ball link on the upper blades, to adjust tracking simply pull off one of the lugs and you can twist the lug on the screwed shaft to lebgthen or shorten the link. Run the notors up so that the blades are fast enough to see if the tracking out, then power down and lengthen the link, if the trackings better but not perfect the next time round then do it again, 1/2 a turn at at time. If the trackings worse then twist the other way shortening the link until trackings very close
You wont ever get tracking perfect but very close will do.
The tracking of the blades will not have any efect on blade clacking as only very minute adjustments are needed.
It could be loads of things, gear slipping, swash seperated, rotor heads loose.
Explain its actions in more detail and we will find the exact problem in minutes
When you say all over the place do you mean forward / backwards or is it spinning on its own axis etc
Blade clacking ( when the upper and lower hit ) accurs when there is too much input to correct. The easiest way to fix this problem is to get an extended inner shaft to increase the distance between the upper and lower rotors, but flying indoors this should not be required as your stick input should never need to get them that far. I take it that its not spinning on its axis (yawing) because you mentioned the blade clacking.
As far as tracking the upper rotors ( you cant with lower).
On top of the upper head there is a small link linking the metal flybar to the ball link on the upper blades, to adjust tracking simply pull off one of the lugs and you can twist the lug on the screwed shaft to lebgthen or shorten the link. Run the notors up so that the blades are fast enough to see if the tracking out, then power down and lengthen the link, if the trackings better but not perfect the next time round then do it again, 1/2 a turn at at time. If the trackings worse then twist the other way shortening the link until trackings very close
You wont ever get tracking perfect but very close will do.
The tracking of the blades will not have any efect on blade clacking as only very minute adjustments are needed.
It could be loads of things, gear slipping, swash seperated, rotor heads loose.
Explain its actions in more detail and we will find the exact problem in minutes
#3
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From: Fort Wayne,
IN
I guess we need to start with the basics. Have you seen and gone through this guide? [link=http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/index.php/HOWTO_Wiki_Overall_CX_and_CX2_Setup]Setup Guide[/link]
What you are experiencing my be what is known as Toilet Bowl Effect. It's a circular oscillation that just keeps getting bigger and bigger until you either land or crash. And it is very fixable at no cost. It's all in the setup.
If you haven't gone through this guide, I suggest you do. It will get your helicopter rock solid. And that's a very good place to start.
Soloboss
What you are experiencing my be what is known as Toilet Bowl Effect. It's a circular oscillation that just keeps getting bigger and bigger until you either land or crash. And it is very fixable at no cost. It's all in the setup.
If you haven't gone through this guide, I suggest you do. It will get your helicopter rock solid. And that's a very good place to start.
Soloboss
#4
The guide that soloboss posted up is a must read for any cx-cx2 owner. Once you get your heli all setup and flying again you should also check out these links.
Flying Tips
http://www.krshobbies.com/tips.html
Flight School
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html
Tips/Repair/Guides/Mods Links
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_70.../tm.htm7035042
You'll find that everyone in here is a great help and if you ever have a question they'll have it answered. Good luck.
Flying Tips
http://www.krshobbies.com/tips.html
Flight School
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html
Tips/Repair/Guides/Mods Links
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_70.../tm.htm7035042
You'll find that everyone in here is a great help and if you ever have a question they'll have it answered. Good luck.
#5
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From: port washington,
NY
ladies and gentlemen, i would assume most of us nuts in here are male. i have been flying mostly planes for the last 4 years but started this addiction with a shogun 400 3d. what a mistake that was! anyway, i was asked to fix a cx2 recently and ended up buying one for myself so i could see how it was set up because it was nearly impossible to make it hover.(and yes i did read the manual at least 8 times) . finally got it! since then i have fixed 4 more and upgraded mine . there is one that still does the "toilet flush effect" but my friend says that it goes back to a center point. i am getting it back from him in a few days to try to figure out why it is doing this. i have changed the inner shaft, swashplate , lower rotor head . played around with the 3 in 1 unit it had matching blades when i gave it back to him. the swash was basically level. any quick tips or is it a matter of several hours of trial and error again? any advice other than" read the manual" would be appreciated .
#7
It sounds like the flybar is sticking slightly. Make sure its nice and free, flick it downwards to make sure that it bounces about twice and levels off. Have you checked out Solobosses guide? He has it all covered in there.
Soloboss’s Guide
http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/i..._and_CX2_Setup
Soloboss’s Guide
http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/i..._and_CX2_Setup
#8
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From: port washington,
NY
i will definitely check out the site! know anyone who still has a shogun ? i think i have enough spare parts to build another one . i'm still figuring out how to use the puter and r/c universe. i guess i should post an ad?
#11
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From: Minneapolis,
MN
OK guys, you seem pretty informed about this stuff... I purchased a CX2 the other day and have "bumped" into a few things already such as the dryer, coffee table, etc. (I'm a rookie at this too). I have had to replace some blades and have a crack in my cowling (is that what you call it?). I have noticed a bit of a wobble when looking at the upper rotor head when I add a little power but I can't determine if this is normal or if I caused it. Seriously, I really didn't hit the things too hard - just enough to break some blade tips. Are these birds pretty tough or very fragile? Who has the CX2 and/or choppers like it and what type of accidents vs. damage have you experienced?
#12
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From: hampton,
GA
i dropped mine from about 30FT up and only broke 2 blades and slightly bent the inner shaft, trashed the body, but ill get a new one once i learn to fly it. so id say its pretty tough
#13
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From: East Peoria,
IL
My CX2 has been crashed many,many times. I can tell you that all in all it's pretty tough. I replaced the OEM blades with upgrade blade grips to allow them to fold back instead of break. I also use the xtreme blades because they're tougher, (they also provide more lift).
One thing that I have not read much about is the main gear on the inner shaft, this gear is too thin and flexable. I have experienced a lot of problems with this gear. I replaced it with a delron gear from www.flyrcrivesud.com and make sure the gears mesh closer and now I get better life, before, I was chipping teeth every time I crashed (one bad tooth will affect yaw).
My canopy is literly held together with scotch tape and a band-aid that some wise-acre thought would look appropriate, but it doesnt look like a noob's heli anymore, it has personality now.
One thing that I have not read much about is the main gear on the inner shaft, this gear is too thin and flexable. I have experienced a lot of problems with this gear. I replaced it with a delron gear from www.flyrcrivesud.com and make sure the gears mesh closer and now I get better life, before, I was chipping teeth every time I crashed (one bad tooth will affect yaw).
My canopy is literly held together with scotch tape and a band-aid that some wise-acre thought would look appropriate, but it doesnt look like a noob's heli anymore, it has personality now.
#14
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From: Castle Hayne,
NC
Hello captain,
The first thing I would check that would cause the wobbling is your blades being out of balance. I have crashed so many times I could have bought two more brand new birds with what I spent on replacement parts. I tend to run before I can walk. Anyhoo. It takes quite a bit to bend the inner or outer shaft. To check which shaft has the problem turn on the transmitter then plug in the battery. When everything is ready to go take the stick on the left side of the transmitter and move it completely to the left and give it a little throttle until the bottom blades are spinning pretty fast. Does it wobble? Power down and move the stick all the way to the right and throttle up again until the top blades are spinning fast. Does this cause it to wobble? I use this method to find out where to focus my attention. 9 times out of 10 my blades have mismatched weight. Remove the blades from whichever shaft is wobbling and snap them together. Take two soda bottle caps and place them upside down on the counter. Now set the balls on the blades on the edge of the caps. You may have to make a few slight adjustments to get everything to move freely. Push down lightly on the blade that is up. If it stays down or returns back up slowly the blades are close enough to be called balanced. If the blade you pushed down returns back up quickly you may need to add weight to that blade. I prefer electrical tape. It is black and blends in rather nicely. Cut a piece of tape off about an inch long and stick it to the bottom side of the blade that needs correcting. As far out as possible. Remove or add tape until the blades are balanced. When I have to replace blades now I make sure they are balanced first. I hate to fly a heli with the jitters. If this didn't correct the shaking then one or both of your shafts are bent or the fly bar is bent. Let us know if this works.
Rob
The first thing I would check that would cause the wobbling is your blades being out of balance. I have crashed so many times I could have bought two more brand new birds with what I spent on replacement parts. I tend to run before I can walk. Anyhoo. It takes quite a bit to bend the inner or outer shaft. To check which shaft has the problem turn on the transmitter then plug in the battery. When everything is ready to go take the stick on the left side of the transmitter and move it completely to the left and give it a little throttle until the bottom blades are spinning pretty fast. Does it wobble? Power down and move the stick all the way to the right and throttle up again until the top blades are spinning fast. Does this cause it to wobble? I use this method to find out where to focus my attention. 9 times out of 10 my blades have mismatched weight. Remove the blades from whichever shaft is wobbling and snap them together. Take two soda bottle caps and place them upside down on the counter. Now set the balls on the blades on the edge of the caps. You may have to make a few slight adjustments to get everything to move freely. Push down lightly on the blade that is up. If it stays down or returns back up slowly the blades are close enough to be called balanced. If the blade you pushed down returns back up quickly you may need to add weight to that blade. I prefer electrical tape. It is black and blends in rather nicely. Cut a piece of tape off about an inch long and stick it to the bottom side of the blade that needs correcting. As far out as possible. Remove or add tape until the blades are balanced. When I have to replace blades now I make sure they are balanced first. I hate to fly a heli with the jitters. If this didn't correct the shaking then one or both of your shafts are bent or the fly bar is bent. Let us know if this works.
Rob
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From: Minneapolis,
MN
Bluecnc and others,
Thanks for the advice - I'll check into all of them. BTW, because of my lack of knowledge, how do I check the flybar to see if it's straight (the thing on top with the weights on it, right?). Do I just start taking things apart to remove it then just roll it on a table to see if it wobbles? Also, what do you think about me moving my pushrods out one hole on my servos? I've heard about people doing this...does it make it more responsive...should I wait to do this until I get a little better control or will it give me better control? I think I'm beginning to like this heli a little bit better - wish I had a much bigger house. Any help and/or advice is appreciated. ~Kirk
Thanks for the advice - I'll check into all of them. BTW, because of my lack of knowledge, how do I check the flybar to see if it's straight (the thing on top with the weights on it, right?). Do I just start taking things apart to remove it then just roll it on a table to see if it wobbles? Also, what do you think about me moving my pushrods out one hole on my servos? I've heard about people doing this...does it make it more responsive...should I wait to do this until I get a little better control or will it give me better control? I think I'm beginning to like this heli a little bit better - wish I had a much bigger house. Any help and/or advice is appreciated. ~Kirk
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
OK ... so I just got my set of Exxtreme Core V3 parts.
I was really looking forward to not smashing blades to bits .. and sooo ready to fit his new kit.
No matter which way I look at the pictures and the parts, I can't seem to get the outer shaft to fit in the ball races in the CX2 body. Just doesn't work.
Either I don't need them (surely not!), I have a crap outer shaft, or I am missing soemthing entirely.
I was going to jerry rig a solution with a mix of standard and flyrcrivesud parts when I had the first original thought of the night .. see what others have found.
I must say it's very depressing....
Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
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From: olympia, WA
ORIGINAL: trail929
No matter which way I look at the pictures and the parts, I can't seem to get the outer shaft to fit in the ball races in the CX2 body. Just doesn't work.
No matter which way I look at the pictures and the parts, I can't seem to get the outer shaft to fit in the ball races in the CX2 body. Just doesn't work.
what do you mean by this. when you say body are you talking about the canopy? if youare I wouldn't worry about it not fitting, unless it's rubbing (just cut the canopy then) I wouldn't worry about it. if your talking about the frame and the shaft not sliding up through the bearings then I don't know what to tell you because it should fit just like the stock one. I have the rivesud V3 and everytihg was a direct swap. pull the stock out, put the V3 in.
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hmmm ...
No .. it's not the canopy .. it's the bearing (item no 027 in the e-flite exploded view). There are two - and they are a snug fit on the standard outer shaft, but don't fit at all on the new flyrcrivesud one...
http://www.e-fliterc.com/ProdInfo/Fi...plodedView.pdf
I am pretty sure they are still needed?
No .. it's not the canopy .. it's the bearing (item no 027 in the e-flite exploded view). There are two - and they are a snug fit on the standard outer shaft, but don't fit at all on the new flyrcrivesud one...
http://www.e-fliterc.com/ProdInfo/Fi...plodedView.pdf
I am pretty sure they are still needed?
#20
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
At the risk of answering my own post,
I received a reply to my email to flyrcrivesud about the non-fitting bearings - to their credit, their answer is to dispatch a replacement outer shaft. No arguments, no hassles, no problem.
I will be interested to see how the kit performs, but for now, I can't complain about the supplier's performance.
I received a reply to my email to flyrcrivesud about the non-fitting bearings - to their credit, their answer is to dispatch a replacement outer shaft. No arguments, no hassles, no problem.
I will be interested to see how the kit performs, but for now, I can't complain about the supplier's performance.




