RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Great news Justin!
You don't know how happy I am for you. I knew you would get it straightened out.
And it is good to know that the JR ring gyro will work with the BCPP.

I got to fly my stocker and my MX400Pro today too, it feels great to be off the sim and in the air again. I hope the weather holds, but it looks like rain...

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

That's why I LOVE Southern California Great weather all year round (but today was VERY windy :eek:)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Jellyson,

Well Im glad to hear your flying some and not just helping all of us Doughts out.

So do ya have any climb rate stats?
I am curious what kind of vertical climb rates everyone is getting. please post your best aproximation/guess of the climb rate your bcpp setup has.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

justin, good to hear that you've solved your problem, yep... i had plenty of problems with a hh gyro before getting dd. and which prop did you get? i just found out that the black/curly prop will have too much inertia and won't hold good during sudden throttle decrease. might not really affect you, depends on where you are at the learnign stage. i think the square prop will give better result.
ps, don't you think that a t500 is WAY overkill for a blade cp though? i mean, it really need digital servo to really excel, but we have a esc that is slow and has low resolution. i don't know... it'd yeild way better result on a rex i think.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Doh! I knew there was something I was supposed to be doing besides just having fun.
Sorry, I completely spaced it out. All I can say is that it was plenty adequate and I never hit full throttle, either in normal or idle-up.
Certainly greater than 10 feet per second, and I try to get throttle just up to where the headspeed starts to load up in normal mode.
Nowhere near that high throttle in idle-up, it zoomz pretty good, good climb rate, but as I said I wasn't specifically testing, just having fun and concentrating on not crashing (I had a friend with me, didn't want to embarrass myself too much!)

Everything stock except the swash and links, and the battery connector (a jumper from the JST on the 3-in-1 to the Align on the battery).
Stock 800 mAh battery, stock radio, no external gyro, stock motor and pinion, stock suckky tail (2 heat sinks), symm woodies, flying weight 312 grams.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

yep, that's about right. a second is longer than you think:D, a second can cost you a fortune:D. what about the bl setup jellyson?:D 20ft/second?

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Choppersrule:
One of the main reasons I got the G500T gyro is so I CAN use it on a T-Rex later. All of my upgrade parts I am buying so they will work well on a T-rex.
With the DD I am useing the square orange blades that come with the motor because my LHS only had the motor and not the prop adapter and the black blade. I have not had a chance to fly it yet but I think I will like it much better than the stock.

I have not flow my heli successfuly seince the DD, G500T, and Spektrum upgrades...

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

OK my HH gyro came today.:D
I tore down the sucker so I could replace my feathering shft. which was slightly bent and trace any other small culprits of vibration before installing the gyro.

My main question is:
How sensitive are gyro's to vibration? & What happens when vibration get to high for gyro?

Does anyone have a BCPP with no vibs at all? It is possible to get rid of all vibration.
I am now a master of balancing blades and flybars(been through a few sets, more than I would like to admit)
I spun up the main motor with the rotor head removed (swash plate attached) and to the eye the main shaft (new main shaft) seems perfectly strait. However there is a high frequency vibration that can be felt when touching the heli. (not from the tail it was unpluged) I can also feel the slightest bit of bend in the new mainshaft, I feel it when the shaft is turning slower and it gets very hard to notice when the motor is FT. The vibration only seems noticable at close higher throttles. So Anyways, Im sure that the mainshaft/gear is causing the vibs. (probably not noticable to most folks)

Has anyone tried any mainshaft/gear upgrades such as the century mainshaft/gear mod listed here: http://www.bladecprepair.com./man_cmg_conversion.html
I would be very interested to hear from anyone with this mod as I have heard of many new eflite mains being bent upon purchase. I bought one new before that wasnt even flight worthy.

also has anyone found a center hub or rotor head to cause any vibs?

I plan to re-assemble my head and rotor in stages and will report back with my findings

Please EVERYONE let me know your experiance with fixing vibs. and any eflite parts that you have found to be continuously problematic and any aftermarket parts that help?

All of us that are new to this machine would greatly appriciate it. I took me a while to realize how much better my bcpp fly when the vibs were at a minimum since at first I was just concerned with keeping the thing in the air and in one piece. It took a little bitto get in tune with the suttleties of the way the bcpp flys or should fly. (flys very stable and nice when dialed in)

Sorry everyone that I keep writing books.:eek:

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Hi guys,

Need some help. I just upgraded my CP Pro to the Brushless motor and ESC. I mounted the ESC on top of the 3-in-1, which is one of the suggested placements in the manual...

I started off slow, since it's a new upgrade. My problem is, that it will randomly jump up or down several feet. Very frustrating.
I'm thinking that ESC should be placed somewhere else and that I'm getting interference.. Another thought, is that it's also acting like a servo is going bad. All servos are about 8 or 9 months old. Hmmm, What should I do?

What's the best way to verify what my real problem is?

Thanks,

Dave / Choppersrule

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Commander_Bob,

I understand getting the G500T gyro to use on the T-Rex later. Sounds like a good plan of attack. Sorry to hear that you're having problems since you upgrade to the DD, G500t and the Spektrum.. As you can see, by my earlier post, I'm having some problems with the brushless upgrade on the CP Pro.. Man, this can be a frustrating hobby.

Hope we can both get our problems resolved.

Dave / Choppersrule

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Hey dave congrats on the brushless!
You are using the DX6 in this heli? Or the stock radio? I can't remember. And an external gyro?
If you have an external gyro I would say try a separate esc on the tail, cutting the 3-in-1 out of the system altogether, and then seeing if the thing still jumps around.
If you have no gyro and are depending on the mix and gain of the stock 3-in-1, I'd try relocating the bl esc to underneath, just temporarily, to see if your idea about the interference is right.
If you are using the stock radio and not the AR6000, then the esc lead could be picking up glitchness from the aether. I'd try the ferrite ring trick and keeping the leads as short as possible.
And is this the one with the HS55s? Very suspicious that this behaviour just started, I don't think its a servo, but that's just my first intuition.
Let's see, where did I put that extra 55? And will I need to reverse it...


;)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Just ordered my carbon fiber boom the new one and a set of the skids . I think it would be nice if he made them with carbon fiber fin on the boom ??.....BUT its all HUGE!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

noguy right you are about the vibration issues.
Too much vibration of the right (wrong) frequency can actually break the little tuning fork in the fork-type gyros. I would bet the ring gyro is less prone to this kind of damage. But since both the gyro types actually work by sensing a type of vibration, it stands to reason that they should be isolated from as much external vibration as possible for the best performance.

And the eflite parts are really not too accurate. As a micromachinist used to working to 0.0001 inch tolerances, the slop, sorry, play in the whole head system seems incredible to me. But now I realize it has to be that way to work properly. But the vibration and run-out (the technical term for bendage in shafts) in brand new parts is getting to be intolerable.
Many people upgrade to the aluminum CNC parts for this reason alone.
And then they find out that the aluminum "CNC" parts are just as bad.
Just kidding, my bad experiences probably aren't typical, but this brand new MicroHeli swashplate has more play in the main bearing than the stock plastic one I took off that probably has 25 hours flight time on it.
And the brand new MH aluminum swash that I installed on my CX separated--as I was installing it. Better then than in flight, but I sure was po'd.
The center hub can make the shaft look bent when it isn't. I always try both orientations of this part on the shaft to find the best way around.
And the variation in height of the shear pin hole can cause collective pitch problems even if nothing else is changed.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Jellyson,

The DX6 is on the T-Rex. The CP Pro is all stock equipment, no HS55's or gyro.(The 55's are on my CP). No other modifications, just the Brushless thing. I'll try to relocate it. Hmm, more hours of work, but that's the fun part too, love to tinker.

Thanks for the advise,

Dave / Choppersrule

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Choppersrule

I can't help with the Brushless because I have the stock motor For now [>:]

If all goes well my heli should stay in the air for more than two minutes tomarrow.

What should my max pitch be if I am useing the stock motor? Someone said that 12 was too high.
Any tips on pitch curve?

Thanks,
Justin

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Hello all,

Hate to be a pest but I'm trying to put together a long term overall upgrade. So far it looks like park 370,20A Eflight esc,DD Tail mod,Gws 2A esc and ditch the 3in1. Is the 2A a good choice for the tail? Also witch swash is better Eflight or Micro heli alum. Eflight is cheaper and both would prob get Trex ss balls as you have already sugested. What amperage fuses are you useing for tail and main?

Man does this addiction ever get cured?[&:]

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Everything sounds good, but why would you need the GWS 2A ESC? And why do you want to ditch the 3-in-1 (unless youre using your own radio and reciever)?

Alex

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Here are my plans....

Today I crashed the Blade CP400, because of the tail rotor flying off. So for this crash I need new Blades and a new main-shaft.

-Carbon Fiber Blades

-DD-tail (can I get this on heli-direct?)

-Cheapy gyro (this one http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=1092 )

-Couple of super strong main-shafts ( http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=1641 these will work with the stock main gear right? Ill just have to slide her in? Or are they too long?)

Thanks, Alex

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Dave, in that case the very first thing I'd try would be the ferrite ring. You can just hairpin the esc-to-radio lead and stick it thru the ferrite as many times as it will go, five is about right. This is supposed to suck the glitchiness out of the wires, and I guess it works, a lot of folks use it.
Second, I'd try relocating the esc. Servos are a distant third but still a possibility.

bart, you will need a gyro if you ditch the 3-in-1, and I recommend a heavier esc, like the GWS ics300li, you won't need the heatsink on that one, nor fuse either. Since we already know the motor can draw 2 amps when stalled, I would go with the bigger unit for the margin of safety (some would call it overkill).

I am going to say the EFlite swash is the better of the two that I own. The MH swash has too much play in the main bearing and isn't as stoutly built as the EFlite one. I am going to put the eflite one on the blingy thingie and swap the MH one back to the stocker.

And I just got the SuperSkids as you know, but I did not like the little wire tail braces, they seemed really bogus, so I made some nice ones from 2mm CF rod and some Align link sockets, and attached them to the heli by installing some of the aluminum link balls that I took off my MX400Pro when I replaced them with the Align ss ones.
See:

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

You must give a bit more detail, I can't see how a tail rotor can fly off in flight, it is supposed to be pushing...??Did you strike it on something? Come on, fess up....;)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

The stock gear is permanently pressed to the stock shaft, I don't think you can take them apart, so you will probably have to use the MH gear and auto hub. This will be better anyway, but costly.
I can't seem to get my LHS to get one for me, they seem to be having some kind of MicroHeli spasm or something.

And I love that gyro page. "Twindling" LEDs, indeed! and Suitable for high-class helicopters! Well, that's us for sure!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Alex, If you are looking for a cheeper gyro than the g90 you may want to concider the telebee it is 1/3 the weight of the one you are looking at and is. g90 = 9g; telebee = 11g; the gyro you pasted a link to = 50g
I found mine here on ebay for $45
http://cgi.ebay.com/Telebee-HeadLock...QQcmdZViewItem
this is same seller that I bought mine from....

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Jellyson,
Aside from the swash plate and slop in things, have you found any cnc stuff to be better balanced than stock? Does your 400 have any vibe on spinup?


Does anyone have a bcpp with no vibration on spin up?

Is anyone using the century mainshaft and gear mod? any input here, anyone?

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Jellyson,

If you put a DD on this stocker with no other changes please let me know what you think about the difference in overall power after dd compared to before.

Thanks Again.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Well, better balanced, yes. Better, not necessarily. For example, the MH aluminum head I bought for big bux is very well balanced. But they used the wrong alloy for the hub, it is too soft, and they used tiny 2mm setscrews to hold it on, they strip out very easily and due to the softness of the alloy the next size up 2.5 mm also strips out and by the time you get the right size 3mm setscrews in there the shaft hole is wallowed out so it will never be completely straight again. Just using 6061 or 7075 alloy would have prevented this totally, or using a collar arrangement to squeeze the shaft together would have worked better IMHO.
Yes, it sometimes vibrates, sometimes not, it always settles down once the blades find their lead/lag positions.
I am not bad-mouthing MicroHeli, I admire what they are doing, but I do think it could be done better, very easily and at minimal cost.
Maybe they are reading this post.