RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

ok, maybe i'm stepping out of my territory with brushed motors. it's been months since i've toyed with them, but i recall that you drop a tooth with flatbottom blades for aerodynamic reasons mainly. the last time i really played hands on with brushed motors was when the pro just came out, and most beginners asking gearing questions still flew NiMH. that's why i was thinking 9T/10T for flat/sym.

now let me get my heading set right: the stock pro comes with 9T + 3S + syms. this means that you should be using an 8T with flat bottoms to get optimal flight time and motor life.

[edit: eflights cp optional accessories page has descriptions under the various geared motors that tell you what they are used for:

[link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/RelatedParts.aspx?ProdId=EFLH1100&Category=Optiona l%20Accessories]eflight optional accessories page[/link]
]

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I have been running symetrical woodies since i got mine. Probly have about 25 flights on both of the motors, so i would stick with the stock set up (9T) I have had no problem with the motors heating up what so ever thus far.....i guess im one of the lucky ones with the tail motor.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I used to fly mine with 9T and sym blades. It worked fine for what I did (Hovers, side in) But it also had a hard time comming out of a fall (it could have been the motor, I had it for 7 months...)

I am useing the sym blades so I'll leave the 10T on (I don't want to deal with it anyway)

On the brushed motors does the brushes wear out or is it the magnets? My old motor is easier to turn (less force of pull from magnets) than the new one.

Thanks a lot,
Justin/ commander bob

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Oh ok trug,
thanks...I have my pitch lowered a bit right now so my throttle is a little more tame. so hopefully im not runnin my motor too hard with the 9t & flats...
I'll be back on syms soon anyhow.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

np noguy.

i edited my post above to include the link to eflights optional accessories page for the cp. it contains good info on the gearing subject. you can get away with any gear for some time, but there's always an ideal gear for any setup. that page tells you what 8-11T are used for.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

It's a combination of both. usually your brushes burn up first which make things get really hot. heat softens the magnets gradually, but it happens very fast once the brushes go bad.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Thanks trug,
I'll go try to get the 9T off the other and on to the new.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I swapted the pinions (crushed the 10T in the process). Now when I turn the head the gear or motor (I can't tell) makes this faint clicking sound. I think it is just a few nicks in the pinion. I will put a little lube on the gears tomarrow and try this new motor out.

Thanks,
Justin

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I just took apart my old motor and shur enough one of the brushes were gone. Tottaly warn out. The other had a little left.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

when i used to race 1/10th scale at the local track, we used different tension springs on the brushes in our stock 540 motors to balance brush pressure. i forget if it's positive or negative, but one of the brushes is magnetically attracted to the armature, and the other is repelled. that's why one wears faster than the other in most motors.

speaking of 1/10th scale racing equipment, it would be nice if someone made a nice rebuildable brushed motor for these helis. then again, there's no stock class in heli's.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Hey all,

I've been flying my Blade CP for about a month now and had the "upgrade fever" LOL! Anyway, before upgrading, I had it tuned so it hovered perfectly! I had the stock 10t pinion motor, JSC plasi-blades (flat bottom) and a 3-cell 1320mah lipo battery. The only thing I didn't like was the damn tail rotor kept disengaging.......then finally the entire boom shifted in flight and it crashed.

So, I upgraded to a dual-tail rotor along with the Micro-Heli aluminum swash-plate and a 370 8t pinion motor...oh and it came with the bell-hiller linkage. Anyway, after frying my 4-in-1 yesterday due to a boneheaded soldering move (don't work on my heli while drinking!), I've replaced the 4-in-1 and now when I lift off it is no longer stable. I was able to hover it for a few seconds before it starts wobbling and going all over the place.

So, here are a couple questions:
1) Is there anything I need to do or adjust due to the new 8t pinion motor or the new aluminum swash? The tail rotor is fine now after adjusting the pot so I have no issues with flying the tail.

2) I noticed that the flybar moves very easily in one direction, but when I go in the other direction, it stops when level....I can push it past level to about the same position as the other side, but it's not smooth/easy. What could have caused this? The crash? A bent spindle/feathering shaft? It seems as if it's the bell-hiller assembly on that side, but I've changed nothing on that and see nothing I can do to fix it.

3) Any other suggestions??

Thanks all. Great forum and I just burned about 3 hours working the night shift reading this single thread!

John

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Ok, ok. . .True, but compaired to stock/even videos shot close enough to the blade, it is silky now!. . . wait was. . . i had a little blade strike[:@]

But in the spirit of the paper clip balnance head and blade method i went all out on that stuff and it really really really made a difference!

The reason i would not use that method again tho': The blades eventually find a lag setting while they are spun up. . . because of that 'setting' they are not perpendicular to the rotar head. . . that in its self will change the balance (only by nano meausrements) but it still will. . .

I am going to try actual weight and scale measurements next. . . see how that works, but i promise it was super silky and smooth. . . It made me mad that i wasnt better to take advantage of it instead of ultra cool blade strike , right?!

Anyway, Noguy is absolutly right

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Hey guys i tore down my bcpp last night because i think i have a bent mainshaft. I almost have every single part taken off that thing but CANT get it out of the heli where the keeper pin hole is drilled in it it catches on the brass ball in the swash when trying to take it out? Also where besides the lhs is a good place to buy ALL MY BCPPP Parts at? anyone got a link im about to order everything i tore up last night.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

the shaft always gets deformed at the pin and makes the swash not want slide off. simply file the deformation off and slide the swash off.

i get my parts at my lhs, so i'm not well experienced with online cp parts vendors, but helihobby.com has all the blade parts you'll need.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

1) no. changing pinions may require you to adjust pitch a little, but the 8T should have no other needs.

2) sounds like either a bent feathering shaft or binding somewhere in the linkage. you can check the sahft by removing it and rolling it on a flat surface (look for light under it). if the linkage is binding, i'd first look at the screws on the bell hiller arms. next i'd check the rotor head to see if you didn't damage something in there. then make sure your links are installed right too. believe it or not, there's a smaller hole and a bigger hole on each side of every ball link on the cp. the small side should face away from the head.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

you'll find that eflight blades weight within 3 sig figs every time. no need to weight really. ok, gotta run to work now. check in with you all later.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

b_dub,

also try firmly griping the mainshaft (over the deformed hole) with some needle nose and twist the gear/shaft around in the needle nose until you dont feel the deformed hole snagging in the grip of the plyers anymore and then it should slide right out....quick and dirty method....I didnt have any files small enough for this little shaft myself.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Skarn,
I would go back to page 35 of this thread and read my jumbo post (sorry again everyone) nothing should be sticking in this way.
could be a nuber of things: overly tightened bell/hell mixing arms, bent feather/spindle, centering of the spindle shaft....I would suggest doing a little tear down of the head, inspect and reassebmle carefully checking everything out along the way.

Check out this thread if you have any worries about the entire diassemble-reassemble thing: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3131294/tm.htm

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Awesome thanks noguy any tips for putting it back in with the tiny keeper pin??? i can see this being a problem when i put it back in especially if a deform the hole any in the process of getting it out.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Oh also Bdub,
I have bought from:
http://www.microheli.com/ ; http://www.helidirect.com/ ; http://www.helihobby.com/ ; http://www.towerhobbies.com/ ; http://www.horizonhobby.com/

my lhs has no clue and no good part selection for heli's either

oh and dont forget to check the everything place: http://www.ebay.com/

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

B,
np... I havent had any probs replacing pins (I think the hole/pin clearence doesnt have that tight of tolerences) just dont do like me and use the tip of your thumb nail to press the pin through...twice my nail has slipped and embedded the pin well under my nail where is causes much pain for a day or 2...[:@]

Just be sure however you push the pin hold the center hub firmly from the other side so you do not bend the main shaft...it is a fairly soft shaft. This is still the most annoying part of assembly for me.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

uncle sir,
yea I love my bcpp pro no that it is soo smooth... mine is now deffinately smoother than when it came out of the box.
Keep us all informed and any new balancing tips you have.... I srewed my blades to each other off the head last time and it seemed to work very well.... I had always done it like your paper clip meathod before.... I have a ammunition reloading scale(accurate to 1/100g) around my house somewhere... I will look for it and check on both methods if I can find it.
I would imagine that both meathods are fine, except maybe if you balance them off the head and then when installed things are out of balance it may tip you off to a different prob???

also do you know the best way to balance with a scale...I remember reading somewhere that the weight added should be on the center of gravity of the lighter blade????
where exactly would that be?

thank again,
Noguy/noah

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

What do you use for weight and how do you attach it? Sorry for my annoying NewB questions.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

dont be sorry, this is where I learned...my lhs know about as much about heli's as my 4year-old knows about nuclear physics...

scotch tape...(weight in a very small amount)...I have even found brand bew blades to come a little out of balance and fly better with some fine balancing (I have been through more sets than I would like to admit)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Thaks for the advice all,

I figured it out......one of the links to the Bell-Hiller head somehow got pushed too far into the ball and it was binding...it was actually past the ball.

Thanks again,
John