RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

john, glad to hear you got it now.:)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I just used the new motor... I got lift off and it stayed up there :D. It was very hard to control, nothing like it used to be. I used to be able to have it dead stick for around 2-3 seconds. Now if I blink it's on the ground. I had a minor crash so I am swithing to my JCS blades because the woddies got chiped and are out of ballance.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Heres an update on my current upgrade. I have been flying for months now and have not been able to stably hover. A few weeks ago i went through about 3 batteries adjusting the 3-1 as well as the servo arms (screwing them in or out) It made such a difference that i was able to hover so good that i could leterally hold it in any spot for as long as i wanted........Now for the upgrade. I have been practicing side to side hover and side to side forward flight. As you all know loosing orientation is comment when practicing and have been getting sick and tired of replacing the woodies...the last pair of woodies i ran a piece of scotch tape down the whole front and it seemed to hold up way better. I also just purchased the carbon fiber blades and HOLY COW!!!! what a difference in stability and control. I would highly recommend getting the carbon filber blades. I really think that it will make your chopper a lot more stable!!! Next is the Hughes 500 body....all though im worried that it might weight to much.....let me know if any one has ever tried this fuselodge.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Jellyson THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS TIP I don't know where you said it but I just had a minor crash while trying to trim my heli (new spektrum) and I bent the main shaft slightly. I took the shear pin out and rotated the head 180 degrees and put it back on and WOW no vibrations (well maybe just a little) The thing spins up so smoothly comparted to before with a new main shaft. Everyone go crash and turn the heads around. Just kidding...

Ok my motor is no longer the problem. I can get my heli up in the air fine now and it will stay as long as I can keep it, but now it is much harder to fly [:o]. It is smooth and all but I think that it is eather too sensitive or needs triming (probably both) As I have said before I have a new DX6 and now I need to set up the trims.

Any advice on servo travle limits (to desenitize it)?

Any advice on tricks to trim it with out crashing?

Thanks,
Justin

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Commander Bob,
I use the new DX7 for all of my giant scale planes. . . love it! I also put it on my BCPP. . . Jellyson has a thread on your DX6 in this forum. . . do a search for set up tips and dx6 and you should find it. I used it for my thro, pit, expo, ect.. and it is a great set up. however i only use 5% + expo for ail and ele. . and even today turned them off (dont want to get too used to it) For the tail i am using 80%+ expo. This might seem like a lot, but it works great for me. It doesnt keep me on my toes with that tail as much. . . more relaxing for orientation practice.

I also posted a thread about my set up problems. . . actually all of the settings i posted where great. . . the problem was poor maint (PMCS for all you other military minds). It is pretty close to Jellyson's (i am going to start calling him Zeus:D) Also call horizon. . . they have a written set up at there fingertips!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Noguy,
I tried the scale balancer (i too pack my own ammunition!!!) And it worked well. . . I took every 180degree part i.e. each of the blade grips, one at a time and did minute shaving to get them to equal out. I did this with the entire rotar head! It took the better part of the afternoon. Well, It worked very well. . . BUT what it does not take into account is the way the drive gear/shaft spins. . . sometimes you just cant get that absolutly true and in that case one of the fixes (or helps) for that is to add a touch of weight to the opposite side of the wobble. So. . . . .. . . . Even tho' it works, it I dont think it is worth the time with these small of parts. If it was a 90 size nitro, yeah! But the current methods are just as good and can be completed in a battery charge. Tipping the scales took me the better part of about 3 hours (and i mean ball links, push rods ect...you get the picture)

Anyway i got it silky again! and am starting to do forward flight back and forth. I figure by summer i can get her inverted thanks to Radds, you guys, and G3.5!

-evan

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

justin,
being out of trim should be obvious...always wants to go a certian way...
being out of trim a little (if the swash looks very perpendicular to the main shaft by eyeing it) should not make it harder to fly neccesarily, just should make it need constant correction in the same manner to maintain a stable hover....

My bird was acting very erratic before I went through the whole head. I did a few things at once so Im not sure exactly what my prob was, However maybe recheck your spindle shaft to be strait and that your dampening Orings are in good condition and lightly lubricated. Also check the slop between the blade grips and center hub (ie. how tight your dampening is or isnt).
Oh also the keyway on my rotor head and the key on my center hub were very worn...causing the center hub to be able to twist quite a bit in the rotor head...I dont know the effects of this but it is also one of the things I replaced when I went through my head last week.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Uncle sir/evan,
I found my scale today and was pondering taking it to the next level as you were saying. I agree that it is most likely a waste of time. I think I will give it a run on balancing blades though...

Do you know about adding the weight to the center of gravity when using a scale to balance blades. I heard that the weight is supposed to be added to the center of gravity of the blades, but I dont know where that would be?

Thanks, Noah

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I can't find the post for the DX6 settings... I have seen it before but I can't find it now.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

HELP! I have everything back togather on the head but need a good reference picture of the turnbuckle that adjust the blade hight to see if i have it right? Anyone have a good ref picture????

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Noguy/Noah,
Well. . . i know that the further out that the weight is (tape) the less you will need. . . i am sure you know the simple physics of it (further form the CG in anything the less weight it will take). My thought is that the further in the tape is i.e. by the blade grips the more you will need to add, BUT!!!!!!! THIS IS ONLY WHEN BALANCING THE BLADES TOGATHER!!!!!!!! NOT INDIVIDUALLY ON THE SCALE!!!!!!!!!!. . . wait. . . i think. . . crap! i need to grab some old college textbooks to make sure, but in that thought i think i would only balance blades togather just in case. As far as tape in or out. . . I put mine on the outside so it does not weight down the rotar head b/c I AM SURE that the further the weight is from the cg the the less weight it would take to equal the amount of weight needed for the same balance near the CG. I hope i did not confuse us!!!!! but then again the idea of the CG for a blade would technically be both blades attached at the CG. A single blade's CG would be in the center of the blade only, but that would move to the rotar head the second you attached the blades.

So, after that very confusing paragraph; i will balance both blades togather now with tape on the outside (my guess on where to put weight near the rotar head is close enough to the blade grip perpendicular to the blade itself without effecting the swing of the blade on the blade grip for spool-up and stowage.

If this doesnt help then pay no attention to anything i said! we need ZEUS back! Jellyson. . . ahhhhhhhh my brain hurts

Commander. bob, '
i looked to and searched and looked and searched. . .Its there but i could not find it. I would seriously suggest calling horizon in the morning. . .THEY WILL KNOW!

B-Dub,
i am not being a smart @#S: look in the manual!!! they should be vertical to the balls themselves. Thats what i do when i get confused, obviously that is often[sm=bananahead.gif]

keep em' flying!!!! or at least not crashing!!!!

-Evan

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

LOL i knew someone was going to say that. I left it at work I kinda am dumb like that sometimes! But here is a goo pic i found for anyone else who may have this problem in the future.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/reviews/795/139.JPG


B-Dub,
i am not being a smart @#S: look in the manual!!! they should be vertical to the balls themselves. Thats what i do when i get confused, obviously that is often[sm=bananahead.gif]

keep em' flying!!!! or at least not crashing!!!!

-Evan
[/quote]

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Glad you found one!!!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Jellyson when you come back I want to know where the heack did you learn all of the stuff you know...

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Ok I think I figured out my problem...

I was changing the travle limits of the servos (DX6) and I noticed that with the travel ajustment it changes the individual servos and I had before changed the "pitch" servo to increase pitch range but instead the increased the pitch servo (ch6) so when I put inputs like elevador the right back servo would move more than the left back causeing the heli to go left and foward so it seemed right but it was realy wrong.

YES!!!! Maybe it will even fly tomarrow (good that is)!:D

~Justin

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Well got it all put back togather. the mainshaft did not seem to be bent althought the spindle was from an earlier crash so i swapped it out and put on some extra paddle weights and some flat bottoms. lets she if she flies when i get her back togather, Just waitin on the battery to finish chargin now and we'll see how she flies!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

When you ballance blades do you just eye ball it, or do you have something better? like a guage or something?

I think it is all figured out... I bet my heli will run better than ever tomarrow. I have spent more time on this thing over winter break than anything else. (to bad school started again today [:o][:'(]:()

I'll have to wait till tomarrow (too dark now and I have no where to fly inside) to see it go up...

Thanks you guys have been so much help especialy Jellyson (now a.k.a. ZEUS)
~Justin

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Jellyson,
for the record (when you read this. . . ) i coined the nickname Zeus!

I eyball the blades but against a streightedge in the background. . . just make sure you are parellel to it!

When i get a TREX i will also buy a blade ballancer. . .my LHS has one for about 70 bucks but it is way way overpriced compaired to the adds on the net. I thought about building one with my extra ball bearings and ect...

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Uncle,
I found a web site that gives a good explanation of proper balancing (I dont think it is sooo critical for these micros, a woodie blade weighs less than 10g)
the blades are to be balanced both statically and dynamicaly [:o]
Anyways the proper way is to find each individual blades cg (center of grav), this is done by placing an individual blade on a 3 sided ruler or something similar until it balances root==========cg===========tip
whichever blade has a cg closer to the root should have weight added to the tip until the cg's of both blades are equal distance from tip
b1 r====cg======t......add tape to tip of b1 until.....b1 r=====cg=====t
b2 r=====cg=====t.................................... .........b2 r=====cg=====t
then place blades on a balancer or on head and balance as we have previously been doing; except when you add tape to the lighter blade it should be added at the cg of that blade....

I like geekin out on my heli so I will probably give it a try to see how close th cg's are on some new blades when they come....
apparently when balanced blades have CG's rotating at equal radiuses the cyclic performace is optimal and vibration is minimized giving greater life to parts and longer run times....
I really doubt that this is neccesary since I have never heard anyone mention it in any micro heli forum and the blade are so light in the first place, but I think I may be able to doctor up some of my bashed up woodies pretty well doing it this way.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Noguy,
Its worth a shot, man! That actually makes great sense, but like you said with these micros it might not be as much of a factor. . . but then again a less amount of weight can cause a larger problem in a micro...?! Who knows, waist of time or new rave in the precision tuning?????

do you know the website name by chance. I might run thru' it in the office in the morning (your tax dollars hard at work) if i dont have much to do.

Thanks for the info, seriously!

-evan

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

no really. . . good find!

(im a bit of a tinkering geek. . . if there is a better way i will find it, or have to buy a new widget in the process. . . and then try again!)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Hey Guys,

Been lurking around this thread a while, but I guess its time to post. I have been flying my BladeCPP for maybe a month and enjoying every second of it. I have gotten basic circuits down, nose in hovering, side in and tail in no problem. This too is my first heli but I fly Giant Scale airplanes so atleast I have the basic concepts down (not to mention hours on g3).

I have a few questions to see if the heli veterans can help me out. I recently installed a G90 Heading Hold Gyro and have found that either I am expecting too much of it, or something is wrong with my heli or gyro. In a hover it won't stay put. It wants to keep spinning left. So i compensate with right rudder trim or just throwing in some stick, but when i go to climb out i have to practically jam the right rudder in to hold the heading and sometimes that won't even do it. In fact I find that the heading hold gyro is harder to fly with than the stock. I know this shouldn't be the case, and thats why I am looking for some help. I have the gyro set to the correct mode (hh) and I have made sure i dont have any Revo mixing in my 9C. The gain is set to where the tail won't fight me, but it won't wander too much either (the best i could get it but it isn't solid at all). I am testing this indoor with no wind, so i am really clueless. Hopefully i have provided enough details.

I know the tail motors are known to go out. Does it sound like mine is doing exactly that? I would say I have over 10 hours on the heli. More like 15 probably.

Lastly, does anyone have the pitch curve for the 9C? I can't seem to figure mine out. Thanks in advance for the help!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Ok Evan,
I just played around with the scale and a few sets of slightly damaged woodies.....
I am using a digital scale accurate to 1/100g & a home made balancer that holds the 2 blades through the mounting holes and I place it on a pair of empty beer bottles.

The first set had a cg that was way off (~3mm); one of the tips was pretty hammered and missing some wood.... It took a good deal of tape to get their cg's the same...
the second set was in pretty good shape cg's were pretty much in the same place...
-On the first set I balanced them on the balancer by adding tape to the cg....took alot since the lighter blade was missing some wood. I then placed them on the scale and bamo they both weighed 8.98g.
-On the second set I decided to experiment some to see what was what.... with matching cg's b1 weighed 8.68g & b2 weighed 8.57g; 0.11g difference
I put them on the balancer and then lightly placed tape at the tip of the blade until it balanced....the weight of the tape added to the tip to get em balanced was .04g leaving the blades at .07g difference in weight.
Now (with the .04g tape removed from the tip) I weighed out .11g worth of tape and placed it at the cg.....bamo, balanced.
So adding tape to the tip when balancing will throw off the cg of the blade and mess up the dynamic balance. How much, I havent a clue.
I measured the distance from blade tips to the cg and the distance from the hole in the blade root to the cg. The cg on the blades in good condition was close to the mid point between the hole and the tip.
I think the fastest & best way to balance blades would be by adding tape to the center of the blade (just eyeballin' it) instead of to the tips. Once again Im no expert at this stuff, I dont know how much any of this matters on a micro blade that weighs under 9g, but adding tape to the center is just as easy as adding it to the tip; It will just take a bit more tape.

Noah

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

zope pope,
Are you using remote gain control for the g90 or just tuning the pot right on the gyro?

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I am using remote gain but I tried using the pot and I got the same results.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Zope pope,
I am not sure i can help you much but these other guys can. We share the giant scale planes to heli story! It helps because of prior RC air stuff, but i gained a new respect for those annoying heli pilots at the field!!!!

Noah,
You know. . . that makes sense! I could not quite rap my brain around the dual cg stuff. . . but i am glad you did and dummed it down for the rest of us. Even if guys dont have scales it can be done! I love your blade balancer. . . could you post a pic? I think i get what you are saying, but i used 2 allen wrenches to balance the nut and bolt run thru' the blades.. . .
I can not wait until later today to put all of this into action!

p.s. Zope pope, keep us updated when you figure it out