Steve,

My aileron servos are located as depicted on the plans.

Jeff

Jeff I have looked over all three pages with the wing no servo. The closest thing is on the page with foam wing cut out is the solid place am I to (ASSUME) that's where the servo goes Thanks Steve

Steve,

I just measured my wing and the servo is 5 in outboard of the inboard edge of the aileron. The center of the servo box is 7.25 in forward of the trailing edge of the wing. There is a rectangular piece of foam in this area that the servo should fit in.

Jeff

Thank you that's where I was thinking it went but was not sure. Thanks again Steve

Hi Jeff
I will start to build a Lightning .
Could I please get a copy of the plan.
thank you,

[email protected]

Hi Jeff-

I would also like a copy of the plan set.

My email address is :

[email protected]

Thanks in advance.

Gordon

Hey Steve; can I get a copy of the plans too?
My e-mail is on the signature; in any case will send a PM.
Thanks on advance; regards

Jeff on the rear stab the incidence is set at 0 degrees how do you gain the gator adjustors for changes. did you end up at 0 degrees for final after flying. thanks Steve

Howdy Jeff

I would also like a copy of the plan set.

My email address is :

[email protected]

Thanks so much in advance.

Randy

Steve,

I am running 0.4 degrees positive in the wing and 0 in the stab. The canopy rail is the zero degree reference.

Jeff

Viper Driver uses micro balloons added to the fiberglass and epoxy to finish the fuselage. Question is: how does one apply the micro balloons to get a uniform, even coating of the micro balloons?

Info for getting plans can be found here:
http://www.eurekaaircraft.com/plan_kits/lightning.htm

Hi Boeing

I`m the inventor of this method.

The trick is to limit the epoxy needed to apply the cloth and fill the weave use a roller and you should be able to put glass on the average size fuse at 80g without reducing the epoxy. use it at the viscosity out of the jug.

But first Use the film version Balsarite and spray it or brush it on to seal the wood , next sand with open cut 150 dry sand paper on a block. . After this you can if you like ,use light weight spackling mixed in a slurry ( A little water and mix with a drill to fluff it up ) then it`s applied by hand, and spread with a credit card, to fill the remainder of the grain . After this step, dry sand this off ,then apply your glass with epoxy and a mini roller.

Sig micro balloons works the best I think, and its cheap! After the fresh layer of glass and epoxy, take a scoop of micro balloons out of the sig tub in a small mixing cup.
Pour it on the fuse, put on a latex glove and rub it in by hand all over the area you glassed. Rub it in and add ,till the epoxy is filled and there is no longer any resistance /tackiness let it dry. trim repeat on the other side. you will know when to stop, the epoxy will get filled and slick.

I developed this process while trying to lower the weight of the Patriot 3-D When Harold Collins was building My designs.
I also apply another slurry of the glass cloth and sand before the first layer of primer. This is a lot of work. about one week of nights.

I`m working on a new method using mini wax polycryilic it`s promising cheap and Light ,

Bryan

Unless something has changed you can't get the plans there. Only from this thread. They offer the parts laser cut and cut foam wing.

Robert

Lightning plans are available from me. Just PM me with your email address. I am currently away for work, so there may be a slight delay, but I will get back to you.

Jeff

Lightning finish method on that Viper Driver uses:
I am at the point of applying the glass and epoxy and micro balloons. Everything was working fine until I applied the micro balloons. I am encountering a problem of getting a smooth, level coating over the glass. Was waiting about 30 minutes before applying the balloons and while the epoxy still had some tack to it.
Once the balloons are applied and everything is cured, are we coming back with some 220 paper for the final finish??

Boeing,

The surface will be slightly irregular once you apply micro ballons. You will have to sand it down once everything cures. You can start with 220, but I switch to something a bit finer before I prime, somewhere around 360.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,
I am looking for a long time a blueprint for an F3A model from wood. Through the forum rc-network.de I have become aware of your F3A model Lightning, looking desperately the blueprint. It would be absolutely great for me if you could provide me with the construction plan available. For you cost you incurred to get on course. I hope you understand my worst english. Greetings from Aachen in Germany.
Michael [email protected]

Jeff, I too would love a set of plans. Not sure if I'm up to the build but I think I might like to give it a try. Thanks.
[email protected]

Done!
Hans

What a great build thread--gets your heart pumping! I as well would love to have a set of the plans to do a build please.

Thanks in advance,

Rich

Sorry guys, new to this posting stuff. Email address is [email protected].

Thanks Jeff

Rich,

Check your email

Jeff

When are you scheduled to be back home?

You don't want to miss the Summer temps!

Steve

Steve,

Luckily for me the temperatures here have been higher than in Arizona! Hopefully the weather is allowing you to practice. I should be home by the end of July.

Jeff