Thanks for the pictures.

Wonder if you can make a "sizable" hardwood dowel that matches the OD and the shape of the ring perfectly from the back side, and use it to gently hammer the ring out. The bearing has to be sit on a wood block with the round cutout in the middle to allow the ring to pass through.

You may freeze the assembly. Maybe it helps the process.

Interesting. On my 30-10, it just fell off. Can't imagine on the 30-09 it is a different design.

You might want to check with Plettenberg if they can send you a spare one. It can't be a very expensive part.

It might actually be that if you heat it, the ring will expand more then the bearing, because it is not a very hard metal. So, following that logic you might want to put it in the freezer. Maybe then it comes out easy.

Volkert

Have you tried heating the whole assembly up? The centre part may have a different expansion characteristic. Also, you could try using sockets to press it out on a vice. A big socket on the back and a smaller one to push the part through the bearing. If that fails, have a dremel party with it... :-)

Cheers,
Jason.

Guys, thank you all!
nonstoprc, that's just what I tried when I was on it a few weeks ago. Maybe the diameters of the dowels weren't that perfectly sized.
wagen017, Plettenberg didn't have any available, but quoted about 12 euros for the ring + 5 euros for regular shipping to Bulgaria. Maybe this would be a nice bet, because I bent and then straightened the original one, despite so far the motor seems to be running axially.
Aussie_Knife_Edge, I may try the heating or freezing method. I don't have a Dremel

Thanks!
Nickolay

hahaha!!! Dutchie says put it in the freezer, Aussie says heat it! I guess it has been a long winter here and a long summer there!!

cheers!

volkert

If all else fails, use a BFH (Bigger Fcuken Hammer)....

Seriously, consider using the big and small sockets in a vice. It will ensure things are pushed out squarely.

Regards,
Jason.

It doesn't matter if you damage the bearing, so just cut it out with a bolt cutter.

If the ring serves the purpose of preventing something from moving, it may be a construction of aluminium. Assume the bearing is stainless steel, then freeze the whole assembly first as I suggested should help.

Guys, thank you!
I hope to have some spare time for trial during the weekend and will post back my results.

Thanks!
Nickolay

Hello all!
I tried freezing the assembly for a few hours and then putting it along with some nicely aligned round wooden blocks in my vice, but that didn't help.
What would you recommend? Maybe heating it all in an oven? But at what temperature?
The ring is not made from aluminium, I think.

Thanks!
Nickolay

That is too bad. They may have applied some locking compound before putting the ring on. Maybe lightly torch the boundary line?

Dando: The thermal expansion of aluminum is greater than steel. This means the aluminum case holding the bearing will expand more than the steel bearing when they're heated. When changing bearings in 2/4 stroke motors, the aluminum case is heated, not frozen. Years ago, prior to my transition to electric, I used a 300 degree oven to heat the engine crankcase. Afterwards, the bearings would normally just drop out of the crankcase. Suggest you place the Plettenberg backplate/bearing in the oven for a while and heat it. Alternatively, you can use a propane/butane torch to heat the aluminum. You shouldn't need to apply the heat for too long, just long enough to get the aluminum hot. The bearing should be much easier to remove. When you install the new bearing, get the aluminum hot and the new bearing should slip right in.

Mike

Guys, thank you all!
Today I made some tests. I used our kitchen oven. First, I set it to 200 �C and put the assembly in it for about 5-7 minutes. I tried to separate the ring and bearing, but I didn't manage to. I then tried 300 �C, but that didn't help too, maybe I didn't wait enough. Finally, on the third approach at 350 �C (the maximum temperature of the oven) and some more time in it, I could hammer gently the ring out, using the round wooden blocks. It seems the bearing and ring were glued together.
I have another concern, though. On the pictures you could see the ring changed it's color to much darker. Maybe an oxide built up. Do you have any recommendations on how to clean it or I should buy a new one? I'm thinking about some alcohol and maybe acetone to clean the glue residue. Afterwards, if the new bearing doesn't fit, I'd have to heat the ring again and try again, but I'd like to get it cleaner first.

Thank you!
Nickolay

Good to know that you have taken the ring off.

To mount it, you may need to consider the same mount method with good high-temperature locking liquid. The ring probably should be put in the freezer prior the mount.

The 350 degree heat should destroy the integrity of the glue and maybe you could lightly sand it clean with 400grit sand paper?

I made it to about 400 flights before getting the rear bearing replaced in one of my170 DZ's. Probably should have stopped at 350.

Hey Keith, you may be interested to know that I finally have a 2M electric bird almost ready to go.Might be ready tofly tomorrow if Ican stay awake a few more hours. I'm slow rolling my transition to coal powered pattern. I'll wear all the metal off the cylinder linings of my 5 170's before Ibuy switch over toe-power100%!I just likethe 4C sound and smoke trail too much to let it go all at once. And to think, just 2 years ago all I flew was 2C glow.

5 x 170's wow.
I thought you only needed 3. Fly one of them, the other is in transit going to be repaired and the last one is coming back from being repaired.

Sorry i couldn't help myself

Chris

Actually, you can get them for a song now that you guys have all flipped to coal power. So I did. Nice to have spares, eh?

I've never seen a glow motor spontaneously combust
I've never seen anyone eject their fuel tank through the canopy
I've never had a fuel tank "puff" on the 2nd to last maneuver in the sequence at the Nats. Or any other time, for that matter.
My fuel supply doesn't make noise in the pits between rounds. I also don't have to rescue it when it starts to rain while I'm judging a round(just the airplane and transmitter)

Almost forgot! Inever lose sleep worrying if Iwill make weight!

OK, here we go!

Somewhere, pigs are flying.

Yeah, actually you are right i have only ever had one dead stick with my electric pattern models in all my years flying them. And it was my fault. Shouldn't have left the model out in the sun on a tarmac runway, 45 degrees Celsius. The speed controller over temped 2/3 rd the way through the flight.

Never puffed them, never thrown them out in flight. Must be lucky i guess. And i do heaps of flying

Enjoy your YS's

Chris

Has anyone found a source for replacement parts yet?

I just pulled my Advance apart after putting her in a wet tomato field, and found a similar bearing online. Works great. Over 125 flights so far. Just look for one similar. I forget the type I bought. I could find out if you want.

Chris

I received the following reply when asking about the Advance 30-10 bearings.


Hello John,

many thanks for your mail.

The Advance has two very high quality ball bearings, 24 x 12 x 6 mm in it.

We can send you the ball bearings, the price is 5,40 Euro for each ball bearing.
You have to add the shipping cost, dependent from the country you are from.

best regards

Pascal MEYER
TEAM Plettenberg

Plettenberg Elektromotoren
Rostocker Str. 30
D - 34225 Baunatal
Tel: ++49 (0) 56 01 / 97 96 0
Fax: ++49 (0) 56 01 / 97 96 11
Handelsreg. Abt. A Nr. 9503
Amtsgericht Kassel
www.Plettenberg-Motoren.com

Any tips on how to remove a stuck rear support on the Advance? The only thing I can think of is fabricating some tool to push the rear plate out through the cooling holes. I'm a little concerned about messing up the fan. I had it off but put it back on misaligned with the screw holes. I assume pressing the motor apart by the shaft is a bad idea but I can't really see what's holding things together internally.

I got it, with some weird drywall hanger thing. I'll try to take some pics of the motor disassembled (if I remember) and post them. It is a nice looking piece of machinery, and very easy to work on once it's disassembled.

I had to change the bearings in my Extreme Flight Silver Bullet (very similar to Pletty 30-10) and I found it a bit different and confusing - had to read all the above a few times. Here is what I ended up doing:
> Remove front housing (the bit the prop attaches to) - take out 6 set screws around rim - then it can be tapped out from the opposite end of the motor, down the hollow centre - I just tapped it with the back end of a centre punch. Also push out the front bearing by tapping as well at this stage. You don't need to take out the set screw joining the front housung to teh prop shaft.
> Then to get the winding out. I just put a couple of long 4mm bolts in the holes that bolt the motor to the mount (they were about 40mm so protruded out about 30mm) and held the casing while tapping them with a rubber mallet gently until it came out far enough for me to be able to grab the windings.
> Then I put the casing magnet end down on some wooden blocks and used a 1 inch diameter piece of aluminum rod I had carefully leant up against the edge of the bearing and tapped with rubber mallet - it took a couple of sharpish blows to unsettle and then came out relatively easily.
> Then I put the bearing / ring piece with the exposed bearing edge on the jaws of my metal work vice, heated it with my paint stripping (and heat shrink shrinking) gun (ala removing IC motor bearings) and then used the same 1 inch aluminum dowel to tap around the edges of the ring - being careful to stay on the edges of the ring so as not to deform the centre. I had to use a ordinary hammer here for a couple of sharp blows to get it moving.

And getting the bullet connectors on the motor wires through the ring took a little fiddling and filing - may have been easier to take them off!

Gibbo