Just maidened mine. Of course, the canopy blew off and pieces of wood came raining down on the field. Overall, the plane flies great. The 480 isn't enough at our altitude (3500ft), but we'll see. Also, the spinner doesn't work at all with the APC E type props that were recommended. Where do you buy those rare earth magnets for my next canopy to hold it in place?

Hi

I just got the Brio this week and am looking forward to flying it.

Try Hobby Lobby for the rare earth magnets.

Hope this helps

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/magnets.htm

Picked up my Brio last week and ordered all the power parts yesterday. Going with the Power 10 set up on the side of the box. I know other guys are going with Hackers and so forth but I am good with NOT experimenting This is actually my first electric in this size I am also planning on using the 2100 3C TP packs.

Rudder servo and Canopy are issues.. got it. Any other issues noted by others?

I already have one minor issue, the covering on mine is badly wrinkled. This is probably the second worst I have ever seen in the last 30 or so ARFs I have seen and assembled. Time to break out the iron. Fortunatly it's a small plane and won't take long

I noticed that after RCU crash last night my previous post with my tailwheel pics disappeared. So here they are again!

The tailwheel bracket is a piece of 1/16 balsa with a 3/8 inch long piece of 1/16 alum tubing CA glued to end - cross grain. Then I wrap 2 oz carbon cloth from one side of the balsa across the tube to the other side, when cured, trim and epoxy 1/4 triangle stock on both sides of the carbon/balsa lam to form the mounting surface - when that cures trim and sand to fit the mounting area in front of the rudder post. I don't remember what size music wire - but it's the size the fits the 1/16 tubing, bend to shape - I made the wheel retainer by cutting out a tiny circle of plastic - slipping that over the music wire and adding a drop of epoxy. I think the tail wheel is 3/8 or 1/4 - you can see all this in the photos...

I may remake the length of the wire, but at this size it will keep the bottom of the rudder of the ground
and has plenty of support.

I chucked the wheel pants on mine and used the LYT53 2-1/16" wheels (5 grs each) from Hobby Lobby and used the NMP aluminum extra long fixed gear axles from Central Hobbies I had laying around. This is still about a few tenths of an oz. lighter than the wheel pants, wheels, etc that come in the box and at least I know I can taxi on a grass field now based on my experience with the Eflite Edge 540. The wheel pants are .6 ozs. by the way. My kit had some warped pieces and the rear alignment dowel hole required a touch of filing to make the wing fit. Time to get the iron out and unwarp some pieces.<g>

Anyone using the pull pull set up on the rudder? How well does it work for you? Also wondering what motor you are using with this set up.

I purshased one of the eflight 480's this weekend and going to try it in my Quiet Storm laying in the shop sense its close to the Brio in size and weight. I'll be using a CC-25 controller with it and wondering what to set the timing for with the 480 motor. I test ran it with a 12 X6 prop and was only pulling 17 amps, so I must be timed incorrect to get anything close to the pull I'm hearing folks are having with the 480 motor.
Jamie

I wouldn't use anything less than a 35 amp controller with the 480. Others may ring in on this, but that's my opinion.

What timing are you fellows using with the E Flight 480? I'm using a cc-25 controller and not getting the pull I think I ought to be getting at 17 AMPs WOT.
Jamie

Sorry, I posted right before I re read your question. I'll delete it now...

I went with the dubro .40 tail gear mount. Same one I used on my MUS. I picked up 2 of these , one has all the control surfaces warped. It actually looks like the tail surfaces have too light of balsa used in construction. Also would like to see a better covering job, maybe a little lighter. I really like e-flite quality, but the one must have gotter thru QQ.

Ken

Just an update,

I fly off of a thick grass field and finally removed the landing gear. I could takeoff but landings always resulted in bent gear. I love this plane...... I can fly the entire Advanced pattern in the lengths of two football fields in half the time of my 2 meter. I did end up a little behind 4 3/8!QUOT! after trimming for the CG. I know there was a question of warping on control surfaces and what I have noticed is on my elevator, the one tip would be below the horizontal stab and the other slightly above. I ended up using plain old clothes pins and I store the Brio with a pin on each side locking the elevator to the horizontal stab. My problems went away.... I am sure it would work on the ailerons too.

My biggest complaint is not with the Brio, it is with the spectrum radio not having expo on the rudder...now who decided that! Stall turns are no problem, point rolls and slow rolls are taking some time to get use to.

I think out of the 20 or so 35-40 inch electrics I have flown this is by far the most well balanced and best behaved.

Marty

I just got my Brio 10 at the LHS yesterday and so far I am not impressed with this ARF.

1. The covering is badly wrinkled and very loose probably the worst I have ever seen on an ARF.
2. Despite how loose the covering is I still had warps everywhere. I was able to fix them after several hours of work.
3. The wing alignment pins were way off from the alignment holes requiring drilling a new hole on one side and replacing one pin because it was install crooked.
4. Numerous cracked and broken balsa parts especially around the canopy and turtle deck.
5. The 2mm wheel axle bolts were of such poor quality that I couldn't even get the nuts to thread on due to malformed threads. I replaced them with 2-56 bolts but this required modification of the wheel pants to clear the nuts.

I bought this plane because I wanted a quick build that I could fly this week end. With all the modifications needed I will be lucky to fly it this month (yes I know I'm slow).

Got my Brio a couple of days ago. I've been flying .61 size glow engine stuff for many years, and this is my first electric.

Haven't flown it yet, but it's simple and fast to build ... a good-looking airplane!

Had to straighten the warped ailerons and elevators, and tighten up the covering (which I think is normal for arf's).

Put on the stock wheels and pants since I fly from a nice, smooth asphalt runway ... I'll see what happens ... I have a feeling that I'll be changing the landing gear.

Wish me luck!

Burnie

I finally finished my Brio, its all ready to fly. The weather here has been uncooperative, so I have yet to maiden it. I am using the pull/pull and the CG is spot on at 110mm. Here are some pics.

I like a clean set-up inside. I hate rats nest of wires. I built a little light ply stand in the middle for the reciever, and also added a light ply surround for the rudder servo.

I am still working on my Brio 10.
Anyone have problem with different wing panel lengths?
After spending more than two hours to remove warps on ailerons, hinging, servo installations etc on wings, I just tried to measure the distance from wing tips to the vertical stab. about 1/8" difference.

Hinge lines are not all correct. after gluing the hinges on elevator, I found that the elevator is about 1/32" lower than the horizontal stab.[>:] I will never watch TV while working on a plane.

bdavidson,

any problem on setting up the rudder Pull-Pull? I am going to replace the wire with Kevlar.
What is your power setup? I am using 6 series and have no idea how long the thrust washer of the gear box should be from the firewall. It looks a little too short when I trial fit.


Ihncheol Park
P & A Hobbies

Im using the E-flite Park 480. I dont run geared motors, so I dont know much about them. If you plan on using the pull/pull. Balance everything, and adjust the motor so that the CG is in the right place. I think this is why some people are having problems getting the CG in the correct space. The motor mounts arent all that great, so you have to cut and trim them so that they are positioned correctly for the CG to line up. Not sure about the geared set-up.

Fishing the cables is a little tricky. Its not like a big bird where you can reach back there to get them. A long flexible carbon rod with a hook on the end will help lots. Cross them in the fuselage, the exit holes seem to work just fine.

Bought one of these for cost from one of my LHS. The owner got them automaticly from Horizon and he was going to ship them back. I'm more familiar with electric heli's than I am with planes so i have a power question. Would an align 3550 brushless / 35 Amp ESC work for this plane or will I need to get the Eflite 480 / 40 Amp ESC?

Kind Regards

Im running a 420LF in my MX400, and it might get it off the ground if it was geared correctly, I dont think it would put out enough power to get it into 3D or even good verticals though. Honestly, I think you would need a 450class motor or above to get it flying decent. 480 or above to get it to go vertical any amount. Mine weighs 29.1 oz with battery. Its a heavy little beast. The only thing I can suggest is try it and see. Install it in the plane, rev it up to full throttle, hold the plane vertical and see if it wants to pull it up. If its trying to pull it up...it should work just fine. If its neutral, it should be ok for aerobatics, if its still heavy...your gonna need a bigger motor.

My set-up is supposed to be 225 watts, and the plane weighs 1lb 13 oz. = roughly 123 watts per pound. Dont have a calculator in front of me...

50 watts per pound = wont even get off the ground
50 to 60 watts per pound = Might get off ground, but aint gonna do much
60-75 watts per pound = Gets off ground, and will perform basic aerobatics, and decent vertical maneuvers.
75-100 watts per pound = Welcome to the 3D realm, aggressive maneuvers, and punchy verticals are possible
100-150 watts per pound = Unlimited aggressive maneuvers, Ballistic vertical climbs, good amount of punch out power.
150 watts per pound = Are you flying a plane or a rocket? Hope you glued everything together good.

Greetings,

My LHS had 2 for $100 each. One plane, receiver, some servos, and misc parts later my credit card is cooling off and I'm putting together my next project. [8D] I'll have to order a motor for it since my LHS is mostly a gas/glow shop. Ya know.... he did have several .15 class glow engines in the case. I could buy the other Brio and put a .15 on it and do a side by side comparison.

Best Regards,
The Dude

Heck... you could probably just f*rt on it and get rid of all the wrinkles!!!

[8D]

hey guys.....I posted this in the "brushed motor" threads also....but that thread doesn't get visited very much. Since i got the little BRIO 10 plane anyways..........i thought maybe i could get your advice here on if i made the right motor/ESC/battery set up?


Previous post below.........


"Ok guys..i got myself a little Brio 10 and got all my motor stuff the other day.......


Setting up the plane is no problem , but when it comes to matching up the right sized maotor , ESC , and battery set-up's.....i get confused.

My set up on the motor stuff is.....

Hacker A30-16M
Hacker X-30 ESC
(Will this battery get over worked?) thunder power 2100 MAH 11.1V (15C cont/24C burst (31.5A/50A )

Man this crap is confusing. Will that ESC let the motor run to it's potential?
or will the motor and the ESC drain this battery to fast and ruin it?


I'm trying to get my feet wet into the elctric stuff for something else to do , and wanted a fun little electric flyer , but i just want to make sure this set up isn't going to fry something.


any advice is much appreciated guys......THANKS!!!


JEFFRO503

Your battery is fine. With an 11X7e prop the motor will pull maybe 33 - 35 amps which should be within the range for your 30A controller. I am running this motor and battery but with a Castle Creations 35A controller.

I finally maidened the Brio...

BEST KNIFE-EDGE PLANE EVAR!!!! This thing KE's like its on rails. Its definatly a pattern plane. Nice BIG loops, clean verticals, stops on points very well.

It KE's so well, slow rolls take very little rudder input. I was over controlling it in the slow rolls with too much rudder. Im pretty sure its capable of KE loops.

I thought the ailerons were going to be very fast due to their size, but at the rates suggested in the manual, its really docile, and smooth.

I would suggest NOT using the included spinner. Even with the holes in the cowl, lack of airflow over over the motor causes high temps. I removed the included spinner on mine, and the motor ran at perfect temps.

The 480 has plenty of power, I havent tried hovering it yet, but I think it would do it. The verticals were fantastic. Pull the nose up and it climbs like very well. The large fuselage provides just the right amount of drag, so that the plane maintains a constant airspeed.

Even in a stiff crosswind, the plane held level flight very well. Tracks clean and smooth.

BIG maneuvers. Just like a 2m pattern plane. Loops can be big and round, 4 point rolls are really nice. The plane defines the points really well with a nice snappy lock in on each point.

I honestly believe in a skilled pilots hands, this plane is capable of performing just fine in a Sportsman or Intermediate class pattern contest against the larger 2m planes.

Im gonna try it and see what happens at the next pattern competition.

Ive only got two flights on it so far, so more to come.