Hi tomflier,
I do have seperates with a non-HH gyro, so I do use the revo mixing. But when I use a HH gyro, I turn off the revo mixing. Actually I just switch to a differnet model on the 9CH. (don't you love good radios?)

Do you have the airplane version? Mike (brother #1) has the 9C and the throttle ratchet makes heli flying awkward. We have looked at modifying the ratchet nob to be more like my 9CH, which has very little ratcheting.

I must not have a very good understanding of the CP mechanics (I think I mentioned that before I thought that the standard CP setup on a piccolo used 2 servos for cyclic input, and a seperate servo on the pitch slider for collective. This would have no CCPM, then. Isn't CCPM when you have all 3 servos connected to the swash?
Don't be afraid to point out where my understanding departs from reality. I am asking because I do not know.

Yes the 9CAP is excellent....9CAP is what I have and I didn't think about the ratchet when buying a 9C and when I recieved my 9CAP and I had to fix the ratchet by pulling the case off and slightly despringed the ratchet maker

I still don't quite understand how the pic pro works but yes CCPM is when you have 3 Servos, all connected to the swash lifting up and tilting it.

tomflier

Vince you can program a switch to turn HH off or on. I think that would be a lot easier than switching models.
The Futaba manual page 77 explains the swash plate set ups. There are several CCPM variations and one non CCPM. I dont know about the Pic pro (dont have one)

Mike, you have the same transitter as tomflier. Help me out. My CHP has the exact same innards, except that the the ratched spring is flat rather than with a nub on the end like yours, right? We weren't sure if we should bend the spring or replace it with a flat spring. I wonder if that heli version spring is something you can order.
On the switch to change HH usage on the same model, "not me". I am fairly confident that I would choose the wrong switch setting and piroutte my heli into oblivion. So I have two models. Piccolo and PiccNoHH. This way I know before I power up my bird that I have the proper settings. Manual page 77? You mean these things come with a manual? That's what I have YOU for! :-)

tomflier, I guess I need to do more research on the CP setup used by the picc pro. Eventually I want to get there, and as always, I want to do a year of research before I make a decision.

Piccolo q... Report This Post | (Post No. 1)


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I am thinking about getting the fun version. My question is: What does it include, or not include?
Dave

Hi Dave,
The Fun kit includes the heli parts, main motor and tail motor.

There are several combos that include various levels of other required pieces, including batteries, servos, transmitter, receiver and other electronics.

Do you have any RC equipment/experience?

Yes I do. Both questions. I guess I have to use my own reciever, servos, batteries, etc. to make it fly out of the box, HUH.
Dave

Well, there are combos that come with most everything, but rather than the combos, I think that this list makes for a pretty compete package;

Piccolo Fun Kit
Bearings upgrade
Aluminum Hub
CNC ARL
Seperates
- CSM HLG200
- GWS ICS100 + GWS ICS50 (or 2 Pixie7P)
2 cell LiPo battery pack 1000-1200mAh
LiPo Charger
Training gear (buy or make)
Transmitter of choice
Small receiver on same frequency and shift
2 Hitec HS50 or similar servos

Depending on what your intents and budget are, this could be tweaked to be even better.
Smaller budgets may want to go with the piccoboard rather than the seperates. I hate the idea of having to replace the entire board when something goes wrong. I also prefer the full featured head hold gyros.
Smaller budgets may also benefit from going with NiMH batteries rather than LiPo. There is no doubt that LiPo are better, but NiMH are useable. Especially if you already have peak detect chargers that can handle NiMH.
More agressive plans might include 3 cell LiPo and the Futaba gy240 gyro. This would make the path to collective more direct.
Transmitter choice is also a consideration. What transmitter(s) do you have? Any Heli ones? The FP is completely flyable with a simple 4 channel transitter. but adian, if you are agressively pursuing collective models, a full featured heli transmitter would be a good idea.

Thanks Vince! I have a 4ch. and a 6ch. both are Futaba. Nether are for Helios. I might have to go the heard way...
Dave

You can use the non-heli transmitter on these helis. If you have the piccoboard, it does the required tail mixing. If you have head hold gyros (csm hlg200 or Futaba gy240) then it handles that for you. The main issue is that yor throttle has detents that click. For a heli, this is not good. The stable hover point is always right between clicks. Many people modify the spring or the detention teeth to remove this.
Brother #2 uses a JR transmitter (can't remember if he has detents or not) Brother #1 uses a Futaba 9CAP with detents. He modified it (or is planning to modify it) I have the Futaba 9CHP without detents.

Well, Thanks again Vince. I don't have any of the Piccolo Boards. However, I did have two helicopters, 1 Shuttle, and I still have a Cricket. I didn't have any mixers for these. Well not for the Cricket anyway. I did for the Shuttle, but when I sold it I sold the transmitter too. So all I have left, as far as helios, is the Cricket.

PLEASE COME TO MY POSTS AND ANSWER THEM


HELISPORT1-THINK THERE ARE THREE

Vince as you seem to be very up onspec on the Piccolo can i pick your brains. I just got a CSM 200lightened gyro for my Pro, what gain are you finding works best with it and did you have to adjust the trim pot from the factory setting.........Neal

ps i am using the gws50 esc and i have not cut any wires, should i cut the red wire and use the bec from my Pheonix25 powering the Hacker 18l

Cheers

thesnapper,
We put it on, powered up and flew. It worked well. We did make some small adjustments to the gain later, but not big, and we probably ended up pretty close to how it came after we got done fiddling. But if it has turny thingies, I can't help turning them. :-)

The conventional wisdom is that with 2 ESCs, the BEC from one should be disabled to prevent possible glitches. Cutting the red wire from the smaller ESC is a good way to do this. (presumably, the bigger ESC has a BEC that can handle current batter) There is some debate as to wether this is necessary. But it certainly has no down side. I cut mine.

What cells and how many are you using? Come people have reported tail wag that won't go away when using the CSM hlg200 with high cell counts. 3 cell LiPos do this. But only in some cases, and only with some ESCs. Many were able to correct this by cutting the tail blades slightly. Others changed the tail ESC. I did not run into this problem so I really don't know how bad it is. Brother #2 runs the CSM on 2 celll LiPo and does not have the problem.

And just a FYI, I am still flying my FP machine. I have done a lot of playing, brushless, seperates, moth conversion and so on, but I never have progresses beyond side in flying. I need to kick myself in the butt, learn nose in, learn circuits and then buy a pro. I'll get there. But at this rate, I'll be 90.
Vince