No, the 2500 18c evo lite works just fine

its not to big and heavy?

not at all, its about the same size as the air thunder and kong power packs which are only 2200mah packs. The flight power packs are a bit more costly but fly very well imo and you get an extra min or so of flight time.

kinda hard to beat the airthunder packs for value and being able to charge them at higher than 1c. Less time waiting on a pack to finish...

Scorpion HK-2221-8 V2. Sweet motor, can't beat it. But upgrade the ESC to a Scorpion 45A.

http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/pro...roducts_id=160

http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/pro...products_id=45

personally, I'd run the stock esc unless you have problems with it. I have one of the early models without the heatsink and it has been trouble free for a full year of flying. Its powering a jgf 500th which is another good choice for motors. It probably falls just short of the scorpion if you ask me (in the power department anyhow) though it is very efficient, lightweight, and runs pretty cool.

My stock esc has at least 500 packs through it and since I programmed it the first time it has pretty much performed flawlessly.

Im already dropping a load of cash on this heli
as long as the stock motor and esc will work through basic 3D it will be good enough for me
what about this for the battery
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/19352

I don't think the stock ESC would work with the Scorpion motor. It requires a 45A ESC and the stock is a 35A I think.

I would be leery of that battery. Many no-name batteries are lower quality, but who knows, it may work fine. But I did notice the max burst discharge is only 30C. Not enough IMO.

I would go with something like this:

http://www.rcheliworkz.com/product.asp?specific=113214

Or this:

http://www.thunderpowerrc.com/html/extreme-V2.html

The load on the motor is what defines what the motor needs power-wise, not the motor itself. The Ace ESC will drive the HK2221-8 without a problem. I switched it for a Castle Phoenix 35, but that was just because the governor in the Ace ESC wasn't all that. It works fine with throttle curves, though, and with the 2221-8 on 3S packs you shouldn't push over about 30A or 300W unless you're seriously slamming it around.

Ok all I am having a problem I cant pin down. Not even close to an expert on these little devils(planker) The last two times I had the MT out I have had the same problem. When in hover it will for lack of a better word jolt. It's almost seems like for a split second it reverses pitch. It doesn't stall like the motor is cutting out it just like burps straight down no yawl and pops back up. The tail is rock solid,blade tracking is spot on, new gears etc. Running stock motor and ESC, GY 201, JR XP662 TX, GWS RX, E75 servos , Align 325's, the head is stock except for the Micro Heli seesaw. Any thoughts would be great.

sounds like radio interference

I havn't ruled that out but I live in the country and never had a problem before but it is a possibility.

maybe there is a metal on metal contact on your heli that is making some interference
check your heli and see if anything needs to be lubed

It doesn't matter that you live in the country, like redbaron mentioned, if there is significant electrical noise being generated in your heli, you will most likely get radio interference.

Ok thanks for the responses I will go over it again and see what I can find.

Quickest, easiest, but most expensive solution is to go 2.4Ghz. Then you can almost always rule out radio interference right off the bat on not worry about airframe electrical noise.

Good luck, hope you can figure it out.

Just wondering what it cost you guys to get your heli flyable. I'm looking into getting a mini-titan but would like to know the average cost after completion before I dive into it

Roadtorque- You mean starting from scratch?

yep from buying the kit to being able to fly. I am in part interested because I found a store [link=http://flying-hobby.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3_116_117&products_id=1467]here[/link] that you can get one already built and flyable for about $450. Would it be cheaper to get a basic kit and build it myself or is $450 cheaper? I understand that with a kit you can put in upgraded parts so I'm wondering for those of you that got a kit and built the rest yourself what was the final cost to get it flyable?

That actually looks like a pretty good deal
you can get the lesser performance blade 400 for more than that

[edit] Oops, just noticed the link for the kit, so my comments below are a little off track, but I'll leave them for your viewing pleasure . The parts mentioned on the site I'm not really familiar with. I'd see if I could find some info from people using the Maxwell and Titan components they mentioned. [/edit]

Just mentioning it's RTF doesn't tell the whole story- before you know if that's a good price, you have to consider the quality of the components- what radio, gyro, motor? includes an ESC? Battery? What kind? There are a lot of variables in there that could make it or not.

For comparison, some middling prices:

MT kit- $170
3xS3107- $55
Scorpion HK2221-8 v2- $50
Castle P35 ESC- $85
Castle BEC- $20
S9257- $60
GY401- $140
FP Evo 25C 2170 mAh- $78
Futaba 7C transmitter/receiver- $280

That's about $900 for good components (you could spend more, you could spend less). I have some of the above, but my transmitter I already had, same with the flight packs, servos, gyro, ESC and BEC, so it cost me the kit price. Helis are a lot less expensive the second and third time around than the first, if you get good pieces.

Anyway, so $450 is a great price if the parts are good. If they're not, you're going to spend twice so it might not be that great.

He is right
a little research can't hurt...

I just got my Thro Hold pitch curve setup, cuz i'm gonna start practicing autos on my MT 325, But i can only get -5 degrees of pitch ? Will putting longer servo horns on my 2 side cyclic servos give me more - ? The horns that are on it are kinda short, I can get +11 degrees but i can't go no lower then -5.

Your horns should be set up so that when you're at mid stick/zero pitch (and 50% on the pitch curve), the horns are level and the links to the swash are vertical. This should give you even travel up and down. Once that's done, you can set the pitch volume in your CCPM settings to the range you want.

Gonna do that now.

Thanks osterizer

Hi !

Today it was my second time doing circuits and 8's. I noticed, that when i brought it in to hover (that is trying to make it hover after circuit) it responds very slow at cyclic. I think its time to get it respond more crispier. Any suggestions on that ?

My expo's are

AIL : +5
ELEV : +5
RUD : +25

So i don't think that expo has something to do with heli feeling slow.

Thanks