Tony A.

Well..I finally flew my Banana Hobby 55mm Brushless A-10. A total of 7 flights.

Maiden Flight - the aircraft was nose heavy with the included 1800mAh pack in the forward battery compartment. Second flight, I used a 1300mAh pack and it flew like a dream for 9 minutes. Every flight has been a blast! I will cut out a slot for the 1800mAh pack behind the nose wheel servo, should solve the CG issue. I'll also modify the outboard wings with carbon fiber rod. Too much outboard wing flex. I modified the horizontal stabilzers and elevators already and it made huge difference in positive control. (See picture) Awesome A-10. I'll be painting the Silver A-10 after the wing mod, filling and sanding, gun, antennas and right wing pitot tube installation. Still waiting on the decals for both the green camo and silver A-10s.

Best,
Tony

Tony A.

Here's some photos of the wing mod for anyone interest in strengthening your wing. Right wing is complete, currently working the left wing. Once the spackle dries, I'll sand it and paint the entire aircraft. More to come....

Best,
Tony

Malanthrax

Where did you get your carbon fiber for the wings?

Tony A.

I purchased it at the local hobby shop!

Here's a link for The Composite Shop:
http://www.cstsales.com/Hollow_Carbon_Rods.html

Tony

irishwrath

I did the same exact thing with mine, but I ended up using some flat pieces of CF. Had to do it after one flight where I saw the foam starting to wrinkle on the wings...those dual 4400's sure do pack a punch!

wolfy888

Nice plane, Tony! Irish, I had noticed the ungodly flex of the wing, so the addition of the CF is certainly going on my A-10. Who'd a thunk that a RTF would take so much work? This project keeps on giving! Oh, well, that's why we do what we do. Half the fun is in the building anyway. RysiuM, what's your take on the links for AMMO motors; that selection at 4040 looks to be the right amount of power. I still believe that the stock fans are ok, as I've done several more bench tests, and found no vibration anywhere through the RPM range, so I'll give them a try. Already made your "fan-puller" device, so as soon as I make a motor selection I'll get started on removal. Wolfy

irishwrath

Definitely replace the stock fans with GWS 55 replacements...i've heard a lot of stories about the stock fan blades being unbalanced. That and their cheap to replace.

RysiuM

My Feedback: (1)

4-33-4040 looks quite OK even for 3s. If is powerful but you don't need to fly WOT . More economic flying may be with 24-33-3500 but then 3s LiPo is a must. The only issue I see is the shaft diameter. AMMO has 3mm so you need to find the right hub - GWS is for 2mm so it will not work.

Hobby City does not carry 4040 any more, but they still have 4400 for less then 17 dollars. This motor may fly well even on 2s (I think) but on 3s it will go ballistic. I think I have one at home in EDF-55, but never tried it. One day, when other projects are done - I'm working on variable pitch prop (4 baldes) powered by 1KW outrunner.

wolfy888

Wow. carbon fiber blades! I'm guessing that this will be going on a warbird of some kind. Best of luck to you. Concerning the Guanli fans... do you think there is enough meat to drill the hubs to 3mm? I have a very good drill press, and centering shouldn't be a problem if I keep the speed up and cool the bit during drilling. Has anyone given thought to the new aluminum fans available? Might solve a few problems.... The other option is to find motors with a 2mm shaft, or fans that accept a 3mm. (Nothing like stating the obvious) more suggestions, please! Wolfy888

Tony A.

I agree. I love to improve my jets where I can but the initial motivation for the wing mod was simply to prevent the the plane from becoming a destroyed ice crest. I've seen and read about quite a few 55mm and 64mm A-10 wings snapping in flight. Just didn't want to become a part of that club!

Regards,
Tony

wolfy888

Too true, Tony; that video of the A-10 core drill really scared me, so I've gone over the wing mounting system thouroghly. The single screw into a blind nut is ok, but I found (once again) that the adhesive they used on the ply plate is S*** , so I added epoxy fillets around the whole thing. Seems adequate now. Currently looking for fan units; interesting what a google search has produced. Found a site that has nothing but carbon fiber units, but I'm not going to spend 170+ each on this plane. I'll go back through this string to find that link and see what's up. Wolfy888

irishwrath

Wolfy. with my setup using the 4400's all i did is use the Stock fan housing and replace the impellers with the GWS replacement 55's. So in other words. everything is stock in my motor housing except the motors. it was under 100 bucks for the motor's, esc's, impeller replacements after shipping. a Rhino 2200 20c 3s flies this plane just fine with my setup but i wanted longer flight times thus the 3700's i put in there.

CF the tail and the main wing and you should be good to go. ALSO DONT FORGET TO PULL THE WING LANDING GEAR AND RE GLUE THEM....the stock glue just allows these things to pop off on the even slightest of bumpy landings.

wolfy888

Irish, I agree wholeheartedly that ALL the factory glued items need to be re-glued, as the adhesive they used is trash; thus, I've gone over the entire airframe. When I went to Advantage, I found the AMMO 20-40-4040kv motors which have the right specs, according to RysiuM's reccommendations, AND they have 2mm shafts! So, I think that's what I'll be using, although they're asking 39.95 each. Any other sources you know of that might be cheaper? I'm still going to bench-test the stock impellers before I replace them; as I said, I think I got lucky there. If they don't perform right above 25,000 then I'll consider replacement. The gun/vent is progressing, as are the other mods as discussed. This is going to be a super flyer, I think, and had better be after all this. Wolfy

HOBBYMIKE

My Feedback: (1)

I just completed my Nitro Planes (GuanLi) A-10 overhaul and it flies perfectly thanks to all the reading
I did in this forum thread. Here is what I used:

GWS 55mm DUCTED FAN W/ C20 4200KV OUTRUNNER MOTOR INSTALLED (ELEMODEL.COM) 2 x $ 12.99 EA.,
ELE ADVANCE 30 AMP ESC WITH BEC (ELEMODEL.COM) 2 X $ 13.95 EA.
ELEMODEL.COM IS IN CHINA BUT HAS 4 DAY SHIPPING TO USA AND THERE PRODUCTS ARE EXCELLENT AND
I AM IMPRESSED WITH THE QUALITY. WATTS, AMPS, THRUST, ETC.. JUST AS EXPECTED.

I REPLACED GUANLI RX WITH SPEKTRUM AR6100 DSM2 RECEIVER TO USE MY DX6i RADIO, DIDN'T TRUST
FACTORY EQUIPMENT.

REPLACED ALL SERVOS WITH TOWER PRO SG90 9G SERVOS, DIDN'T TRUST FACTORY SERVOS. TESLA R/C (EBAY STORE)
4 SERVOS FOR $ 24.00 FREE SHIPPING

USING A ZIPPY FLIGHTMAX 2200 MAH 11.1V 20C LIPO ( HOBBYCITY.COM) $ 17.99

I hope some of this helps someone out there trying to make the A-10 fly.

Thanks,
Mike

canwhitewolf

when you ordered from ELEMODEL.COM were there any other charges when it arrived, customs etc?

HOBBYMIKE

My Feedback: (1)

No additional charges.

wolfy888

RysiuM, if you could pop over to Indoor & Microflight for a minute, I think these guys could use some of your invaluable input on powerplants. The thread is called "Anyone else tried this?" We are talking about converting Guillow's kits to R/C, and there will probably be the usual questions about motors, ESC's, batts etc. I'm building a 16 1/2" Spitfire, and have no idea where to begin, being a newbie to e-flight. Just thought you might find it of interest; I've dreamed of doing this since 1968, but the electronics just weren't available at that time. Surgery leaves one with a great deal of time to pursue this hobby, I've found, so all the childhood projects are coming alive once again. Thanks again for all the help so far. Wolfy888

canwhitewolf

how did you remove the original ducted fans from the nacelle to replace them with the new ducted fans from ELE?

was it difficult?

RysiuM

My Feedback: (1)

Is it necessary? Most of GWS-like EDF have the same design - at least on the duct and motor mount, so it may be possible just to swap motor and rotor.

wolfy888

CWW, I just breezed thru the entire thread again, as I thought I recalled someone saying that they simply cut along the seam lines to split the nacelle, but couln't find it. However, it's FOAM, so it shouldn't be too hard to do. Sharp exacto or razor saw should do the trick, I'd think. I thought about moving to a larger fan unit, too, but would have to scratch-build new nacelles to fit, and that seems like too much additional work for this bird. Still looking for a better price on the AMMO 20-40-4040kv motors; anybody? Wolfy

canwhitewolf

true enough, I guess when i saw hobby mike was buying ducted fan 55mm with outrunner motors from ELE china i just assumed the whole thing would be replaced as a unit

not nercessarily so

I also wanted to ask you when you take empellor off and then the engine, can the engine be turned around and installed backwards to have shaft coming towards the rear for a prop drive?

ie could the engine be attached to its mounting facing backwards on the other side?

canwhitewolf

yes i believe someone did replace the whole ducted fan as a unit, i do remeber that in a previous post

this place in arizona has new GWS nacelles and hyperion engines you can buy

engines http://www.allerc.com/index.php?cPat...359cbd897eb8ec

nacelles from gws A10 http://www.allerc.com/advanced_searc...s=a10&x=5&y=13

I bought some hyperion motors from them when they were on sale previously

HOBBYMIKE

My Feedback: (1)

The outer halves of the ducts seperate fairly easily but you have to be gentle and patient as you pull apart but they come apart
cleanly. This allows you to change them out easily and route wiring. I suppose you could just change out motors and fan blades but I chose to change them out completely. I also attached my ESC's to the outside of the fuselage under the ducts so they are not so visible but get very good airflow for cooling without making the plane ugly. They are barely noticeable and heat sinks are much
cooler. Flew it again 4 times this weekend and am so very happy with it's performance. Many people at my flying field are very interested in one now. I take off and land on grass runway with no issues. Good luck.

canwhitewolf

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did you run haveto run a blade around the nose section of the ducted fan unit as well as the side seams of the nacelle?

HOBBYMIKE

My Feedback: (1)

No I didn't have to do that. I just gently worked my way around and pryed it open with just my fingers. Then I gently
seperated the ducted fan unit from the remaining foam housing half. When I reassembled everything I used 5 min. epoxy so I think future access will require a blade or a hammer :-)..... If you have trouble seperating the halves I think an exacto or single edge razor blade will work fine also.