CDI gr8flyer55
Looked at the schematic, should be fine for ignition board too. Plenty of voltage on the charge capacitor, I saw 403 volts. Looks good.
John
The HV-boad will also stop when the ignitioncapacitor is loaded to max Voltage.
If the engine is not running, the current will be 0.01 Ampere.
Maybe we need a littlebit more power, the coil I use now is very small.
Oscilator run now at 50 usec, I hope it's enough time to load the capacitor full.
Now I gone test the schematic to see if everything works like we wish.
I finished the 4T curves.
Link: docs.google.com/open
I am wondering what is the best version.(A-B-C-D)
Hall location:BTDC 30°-32°
Thanks in advance test.
It will start at low degree and then advance in a linear fashion.
Cars have enough power out of the batterij and use a powerfull start engine to spin the engine around.
Modelengine have also low pressure, so the petrol don't burn very easy as do by high pressure engine.
BTW, race engines have a hole differend ignitioncurve then jigsaw / weedeaters have.
Most of the people don't use a start engine but start the engine by hand, thats why we need easystart.
When testing a new flashlight the current will be sometimes very high.
Lucky me, I don't have a HV-board with a transistor.
With the scope it show me the SCR stay open.
Why, the Voltage coming from the HV-board was to high for the SCR (400 Volt type).
Changing the SCR to a 800 Volt type solved the problem, current stay low.
The problem of high Voltage is also the misfiring of the CDI.
The SCR opens if the Voltage of the HV-board will be to high and that can be any time.
If you use a low Voltage SCR, change it to a high type, at least 800 Volt.
For example BT151-800R
I just tested your new fixed source code with the Led & switches fixed and it works beautifully!!
Thanks again for fixing the software. I need to make a few new 2 stroke curves but it tested good on my engine with the stock curve in it. The LED is now nice and bright so we can use it for a timing light again. Tested both tables and kill switch and they work fine.
I will test your 4stroke curves by the weekend. So far, I think the "C" curve will be the best but still have to test on my 4 stroke engine, too cold right now with snow coming today.
I am drawing a schematic and parts list for the HV board we will be using. Similar to an RCexl HV board but a different size. Almost all the parts except for the transformer can be bought from either Mouser or Digikey and I'll provide the part numbers for the parts.
Working on getting the transformers factory made and should have an answer back in a few days. The factory is close to where I live. I want to get them to make 50 at a time until I get orders from the forum users for kits. I do have the bare HV boards available already, etched and drilled, ready for parts.
John
Jake is working on part 2 of the project, picking up where this one left off. A new chip, new features, and only requiring a new timer board and some extra parts. I think it will be a fun to do addition to this project. Telemetry being added, basic sensors for temp and rpm and on the fly timing changes etc. for those with newer radios capable of using telemetry features, it will make using the features very basic and simple. We are approaching this technology cheaper than you can buy a ready made system, if you have some basic soldering experience.
It's taking some time but good things come to those who wait!!
John
John
I redraw the schematics like they use to be after all the changes.
Hope some one can take a look at it and confirm me they are right.
Missing the winds of the transformer.
Red are changes I don't know.
Only if I get to confirm the schematics are OK I start to draw the PCB's.
BTW, the PIC for this schematic / board will be the 12F683.
Jack will you add the schematics to your site if they are OK ?
—
Schematics removed
It must be clear the schematics are not a copy from (name)
I see some resistor values on the hv board that need to be updated. I will make the changes and email them to you. I did get your email thru Yahoo. I printed it out so I can compare to my working boards.
The transformer windings are 400 secondary, #32 awg, 20 primary, #26 awg, and 10 feedback, #30 awg.
You can experiment but that's what worked best.
Now that my computer virus is gone, I hope to get back to work on this project!!
John
BTW, I add some componets to the timerboard to use it optimal.
I don't know if both LEDs will be used, but if you don't use one of them don't place it.
We start this week with hail, the rest of the week it rains.
Monday I get a hearing if it's allowed to start to build a barn in the garden so I can test dry.
As far as Original Syncrospark timing boards I am sure that no one will be able to have. The closes one but not close it was a limited try of rcxel with a 16f pic. and only one program.
The original SS had its unique features that no one will be able to duplicate them.
Syncrospark was part of CH brand name to its timing board and not available anymore...
I can still get them but for a real high price . Syncrospark had 4 curves preprogrammed and selectable via 3 pads.
CH change the sycrospark name to computer timing control after the new TB V1 that was developed and programmed by a friend of Bill Carpenter , after that V2 was done with external OSC,VR...
The TB currently used is a V1 and a LED added to it.
So... no matter how good the software is, hardware... this will never be a Syncrospark and do not create confusions.
Do not want to get anyone upset, I myself supported this project .
"Sky is big enough and can hold many stars"
Thanks
Adrian
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