Hi

Just finished the hub on my engine.

Question for you who knows what you are doing, can I take away the black spacer and grind off some fins from the cylinder head and mount it close (see picture)?

My thought is that the heat is going into the carburettor and make some adjustment because of the heat.

The back of it shall be a rectangular aluminum piece that is 60x60x3mm L=60mm mounted with the three screws. In this area I shall mount a ignition system (Runtronic) and then bolt everything on to the firewall.

But first I have to get this thing started, the only time it has run was in another life as a chainsaw.

Heat from the motor may cause the carb to stop working properly. You also need a little time for the air and gas to mix properly. Air and atomized gas are needed to produce power. The more you can mix the air and gas the more power you Will make.

Okay, I don't take away the black spacer and start mounting the engine mount instead.

Hi
I have the carb spacer in a Weedeater 25 and it helps isolate carb from heat of cilinder.
If the heat transfered to the carbureter is enough you can make the gas start boiling and you dont have reliable run.
The gas boiling is a problem in old cars with carbureters. The Fiat car , here named 125 mirafiori with DOHC have carb with recirculating gas system to avoid gas boiling.
Happy flying
Jose

Here is some pic´s from my husqvarna,i put ZDZ Falcon ignition on it,parts i´ve done myself,engine is just the same as Yours,from 444 chain saw.It´s not ready yet,I have no hurry with it.I write more when I get it ready.

My engine is made in the 1980 at least according to the cylinder. And now when I think of it it's 44cc so it must be the same. Have you flown yours yet? And witch prop are you using?

Mine is a Zinger 20x6 to start with.

I have two engines:this one what goes to my Christen Eagle is 1982 and the other one is still a chain saw,it´s 1980.I haven´t flown it yet,i have many things to do,the plane is not ready yet ,
and from engine is still missing a muffler and some other stuff...but i have no hurry,(yet)
because there is still about 10-20 cm snow in Finland and i don´t want to put skies to my CE...
I think that 20x6 prop is good to start with,i think to try 20x8menz.
I have some ideas to get more power with bigger carb,Falcon electric ign. and better muffler than in chainsaw,let´s see what happens...
Engine weight goes under 50 Fuji and i want the same or a little more power

Exactly the same and I have Professional stamped also on it. I have to take the engine mount to work so a friend can drill a bigger hole for the shaft since I only had 10mm drill at home. I'm going to use an old runtronic system that should do the job for me since it has auto advance of what you can it built in.

I don't know what plane to put it in since the thing I want to do is to get this thing running and then decide what plane to build. I have a drawing of the Shukoi MX-26 that is for a .91 four-storke and I was thinking of enlarge it a little bit.

OH MY
This disease is spreading world wide. Soon there won't be any chainsaws left.....They will all be flying[8D]

Yes, and now it's mounted on a workmate (or what you call it) so soon you will see that to flying. I hope to be able to try this baby soon, next week I'm going to ski for a hole week.

There was some attempt to start but not more, first there was leakage from the crankcase fixed with three screws in these holes. Later it just started but I think it's flooded.

JMN

Do you have any possibility to check how it looks under the flywheel and take a picture because I can't remember that it should be anything more than that triangle shaped aluminum piece.

I think a picture doesn´t help you much because i have done modifications to that part of engine,but i remember there is nothing else but that triangle alum. piece.There was also a little generator for handle heater but you don´t need it.It was assembled in that alum. piece with three screws.If it leaks there
you must take it off and check/replace oil seal and o-ring inside of it.It´s important they don´t
leak,if they leak your engine never runs good.Check also there is no screw holes open to crankcase.You can get this oil seal and o-ring from all bearing stores etc.They are usual size.
You must also put something to keep the back bearing in place,otherwise the crankshaft may
move back when engine gets hot.I try draw some pictures to you,i hope they help.I am not
very good in drawings,this was first time at all when i try to draw with computer.....

I don't have any problems with the orings. The triangle shaped piece are screwed together with the crankcase with three screws and there is also three extra holes near the shaft. There is no leakage from this instead it's the extra three holes that the heater that you say in your pictures where screw in. First I could manage to nearly start it if I flooded the carburettor and the fuel where spitted out of these extra three holes but later after I fixed that problem the engine where drawing fuel like it should do but now I think it's to much fuel.

I'm on holiday from Sunday to Sunday so with in two weeks I can start checking this things again.

Changed the spark plug to the old one (only change was the R) and manage to get it to start but after some flipping forward and back wards the woodruff where broke (the engine couldn't decide which way to turn). So now the next thing to do is to buy a new woodruff.

I also got a new experience and that is to tighten everything like a maniac since that is what broke the woodruff.

Back from holiday and bought a new woodruff tighten it like (You know what) and manage to get it running but the problem now is that it will only turn clockwise instead of counter clock wise. So my next problem is to fix the ignition timing instead I think.

One thing is also that I can't have the tube connected to the fuel tank because it's flooded then and after drying it and the hose is not connected it starts. I have also turn the low needle to only a quarter turn from close so that's is also a problem to get it running.

Found the ignition problem I had it 35 degrees before TDC not after like it should be so the next move is to go out to my parents and try this.