I did the modification that RCIGN! described. The Garolite I bought was Garolite CE. It was a little less expensive. I have a 12" X 12"
sheet, minus a 1.75" square. The mod went as RCIGN1 instructed. I'm waiting for the JB Weld to cure, so I can clean up the inside of the carb inlet throat. It sure seems solid. I made the mod to the Carb as well. The local saw shops didn't have a fuel fitting, so I got a 10-32 Brass pressure tap, and mounted it on the boss I drilled out. The inside dimension is the same as the 8-32 I put on the bypass port, so it should work fine. I'll let ya'll know how it ends up. If anybody wants to buy some Garolite, send me an email and we'll come up with something. I can't imagine ever using all this.

I finally got to run the engine with the new Garolite carb manifold. I'd have to say that it seemed to start easier than before, although it is getting warmer here, and I am getting used to the starting characteristics of the engine. Maybe having the carb closer to the factory distance from the intake helps starting? The pulse coming from the back transfer port to the carb works well, and I can't imagine that the Garolite manifold could ever come loose the way I have it mounted. It is rock solid.

I have the tail group of a Ryan's Rebel framed up, and the fuselage parts are ready to start assembly tomorrow. The wing ribs are cut. I'm using 1/8" luan veneer for the fuselage exterior. I plan to stain it mahogany and give it a few coats of clear Poly, then cover it with clear Oz cover. The wings and tail group will be yellow. I'm going to put POULAN POWERED across the top of the wing. With the wood finish on the fuselage, I think it will look pretty good for a stick type design. Kind of cool to highlight the origins of the engine.

I still have to get a less restrictive muffler, but will wait until I get the plane closer to being ready for the engine. Anyone have an inexpensive solution? I was looking at the Wacker muffler for the P-46. Has anyone tried it? Does it choke the engine down? Post some info or suggestions if you have them. Thanks.

Have you taken the spark arrester screen out of the stock muffler..it'll breathe a little better...

Here I have to fight a 98db club rule..so it leaves me to using a stock muffler most of the time..

FM

Just an update on the muffler. I decided to get one from Wacker engines. It seems well made, with clean workmanship. I ran it briefly in my back yard today and got a 600 RPM increase over the stock muffler I was using. It is louder, though I didn't expect it to be very quiet. My test stand has the engine mounted upright so I can adjust the carb and such easier. This points my exhaust tubes up right at me.

I still don't have a 20-10 prop. My pro zinger is now getting 8100 rpm. I think this could be improved on, but I really have not tried to fiddle with it too much since I've been busy building the plane for this engine. That and I don't have the prop I plan to fly with yet. Once I get it (prop), I'll do some more test at the field to get final best numbers.

Peter at Wacker was very pleasant to speak with. He got the muffler to me very quickly, and I am happy with the product and his service.

I flew mine on a 1/3 scale Pitts all was well until the end of the second flight. Deadstick.
When I checked it the CH carb mount had melted at the bottom and was loose held on by the set screws only....dont know how it even ran!!!!
Im gonna give up on this, Ill post the parts on the markedplace.

Andyt,
I would try to make one of the Carb adaptors described by RCIGN1. It works well. I don't see how it could ever come off. I've got a big chunk of Garolite if you want to try it. It didnt' take all that long.

I got a digital camera so I'm posting some pictures. Some are my Poulan 46, and a Ryan's kinda Rebel I'm building from the magazine article.



I call the bottom one "The one that got away."

Thanks for the offer.
Ive got so G10 board so maybe Ill try it. Time is the problem as Im in the middle of a 1/3 Sopwith and a Wild Hare Extra.
Im still curious as to why it melted..it looks like it melted near the fin. the motor has been a ***** to start from the getgo. Definately not to lean but Im wondering if there was perhaps a small leak on the adapter?

Hi there,

Has any one of you ever tried using glow fuel on a converted/weedeater/ gas engine? I did and guess what,the engine still runs after I turn the ignition off. I need to put the ignition on only for start.Glow fuel also,of course, gives it a much higher RPM! So much for the hype that for bigger engine sizes,gas gives more power!
Comments ,anyone?

A G26 picks up 600 rpm, to 9600, on glow fuel with spark ignition..Don't know the percentage of nitro, it was an old gallon....We got about 400 more rpm on our race engine with FAI fuel and spark ignition, but it takes twice as much fuel....

The intake is made of Delron which is OK till 200 degrees. Sure must be hot under your cowl.
Anyway send it back to CH and we will figure something out.
Don't give up on the Poulan 46 its a good engine.

Tkg
Thanks for the offer.
Im not knocking your equipment...it was an experiment after all. It did fly the Gp Pitts quite well for 2 flights. I probably should have removed the fin closest to the carb as that is where it melted.
Im thinking it came loose and leaned up hence it got hot?
It is no reflection on the ignition.
Ive given up and got a ready made for that plane but I apreciate the support.