Have a Zenoah 41.5 cc out of a REDMAX blower. The original magneto ignition system was positioned hanging down below the engine. Now have a bracket made that places the magneto in front of the cylinder with timing adjustment capability. The original ignition cord from the mag to the plug is way too long. Can this cord by made shorter and still function properly? Also, the flywheel has three magnets - how do you determine the reference point on the flywheel when setting thr timing?
Still a little green at this conversion stuff and any help would be appriciated.

Sides7

Carefully remove the spark plug boot and see if the plug lead is wire or something else. If its stranded wire (very likely) just cut to length and reinstall the clip and cap.
Did you make a new key in the flywheel to correct from moving the coil??

Thanks for the response.
Haven't looked yet to see if its stranded wire, but what if it isn't? Will I have ruined the existing mag? As far as the key goes, I just removed it and will now cinch the flywheel at the position needed. Have been told that it won't move when tightened since its on a tapered shaft. Still don't know where to put it though - because I don't know what point to pick considering the three magnets on the wheel. Any good advise on that one?

Sides7

Hi:
It seems to me that the spark comes when the last magneto is leaving the coil. try in that position. Some where in the forums I read it. That the first ones open the system and the last one trigger the spark.

Hope this can help.

Tatolazo.

Simplist way is to return it to stock and put a mark on the flywheel. Then use a timing light to check orginal timing and the relationship between magnets and coil.

tkg
Sounds like a good idea, but can't go back to original config. All the metel is all gone that could tell me were the mag was originally located. Any other suggestions?

Sides7

An engine likes to run around 25-30 deg BTDC. Put something on the rear crank extension with deg marks. Remove the spark plug and spint the engine with an electric starter, use a timing light on the rear and move the flywheel around until you are sparking at 25-30 deg.
A harder way is degree the flywheel, spin it and see where you are sparking. Move the flywheel and re degree it until you are sparking at the right time.

tkg
Thanks again. I believe I can use one of these approaches to get the job done. Still not sure what's going to happen if my "too long" plug wire isn't braided. What other types of wires are possibe other than a braided one?

Sides7

The wire is either solid wire center or carbon center..Either can be cut off to whatever length you want....No spark plug wire I have ever seen is braided..Maybe you're referring the the shield AROUND the wire ?

If as stated way long,
what do the experts think of having him shorten the center core and insulation inner and outer AND retain the outer braided sheath and attach it to head for additional ign noise protection?
Seem identical to those pictured and supplied by CH IGN. Item 26 at:
http://www.ch-ignitions.com/CHpix1.html

Hi,

I have seen a type of braided spark plug inner wire, but only on expensive "hot rod" wires for cars, boats, etc. In any case, yes you can shorten the wire. Just cut it to length, then strip back the insulation carefully, and you will expose the inner wire, of whatever type it may be. It depends on what type of spark plug connector you have, but I usually fold a small 1/4" or so section of the inner wire back along the outer insulation, then reinstall the spark plug connector. If the plug wire has an outer braiding, or shield, you can just cut this back as well, or do as Mike suggests. Make sure this outer braid, if you have it, does not make contact with, nor come close to the spark plug connector or inner wire.

Good luck,
AV8TOR

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Tomorrow I will be cutting the wire and trying to do the the replacement of the cap. I'll follow with up some feed-back after my adventure is over. Should be putting the engine in the test stand by this week-end. That may be another story but either way ---- it's fun.

Sides7

Here's the results of the too long spark plug wire. Could't get the wire loose from the plug and there is no boot as is normally seen on these wires. Before I cut, I called the local Redmax service & repair people and they told me to screw it off (regular right hand threaded) I did, and it worked. A look inside revealed a 7 strand wire. The wire looks from the outside like coaxial cable wire, no outside mesh separate sheeth covering. A look inside the plug connector reveals a short post 90 degrees to the wire direction. When you screw this plug on the wire, the post separates some of the stranded wire and it expands the more you twist and push it in, so as to get very tight.
Still haven't worked the timing for the run this weekend. When I asked the Redmax service guy about setting the timing after having moved the location of the Mag., he said I was way past him and it's not something they learn in service /repair school. Will give a follow-up after the first big try at running the beast.

Sides7

The Zenoah runs like a charm although I haven't put a Tach to it yet . It seems the repositioning of the mag and then the manual 28 degrees BTDC setting is working good. The "Too Long Plug Wire" was more involved than I stated in my last post. Had to cut the boot to remove the spring looking wire that fits on the plug. It had a 90 degree up turn on one end that had to be forced into the stranded wire and the rubber boot could be put back on. I have it all held together with two small bundle ties, but hope to find a replacement boot at the auto parts store.

Sides7

I have a zenoah 26cc with electronic ignition that I removed from my crashed edge 540 and installed on a wild stik 120. The spark plug cable was just about the right length on the edge but now is WAY TOO LONG on the stik. I want to cut the cable down to size but am unsure if this is a good idea.

Has anyone successfully shortened the cable on the zenoa 26cc electronic ignition?

If so, what should I do to shorten it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! :-)

I believe the real question here is. If you cut it off now, will it be to short for your next plane?

You can purchase replacement caps from CH-Ignitions.

No, because I have another EI (sent to me free of charge earlier when I was having problems) in a box just as a backup...

I just don't want to cut into the wire until I know the change in resistance or something else will cause problems later.

I've heard some of these are made from carbon. Does this stuff solder well? If its no more that cutting the wire, peel back the mesh, strip the rubber,

resolder the inner wire to the terminal, solder the mesh to the can, heat shrink metal cap with rubber seat in it, then it's no big deal. I just don't know

what I will find in there and don't want to mess up a $150.00 unit.

Thanks,

jpartis

I think carbon is in a powder form...cannot be soldered, but I think you can get a spark plug boot with a little metal needle like center that pokes down center of wire contacting the carbon. Seen at least one like that!!!! Capt,n

Usually the carbon is in the form of a carbon impregnated thread or string. You can usually just strip the wire like the carbon center was a normal wire. Then fold a piece of the carbon string back along the insulation, and crimp a new plug connector onto it. Don't worry; the carbon wires are often called "resistance wires", but you won't cause any problems by shortening your wire.

As captain mentioned, some spark plug connectors have pins that pierce the insulation and make contact with the carbon string in the plug wire. If yours is like that, just remove the original plug connector, cut the wire as short as you want it, and then reinstall the connector.

AV8TOR