captinjohn

Sure a choke will work to start engine...but you have to flip untill it fires. Most times it will not stay running. Once you learn how much to prime with a squit of fuel. They start first flip and keep going. Done it a zillion times. Capt,n

hardtop351

predator500......

ive been reading this forum and i would like to suggest to you the following....

1. dont use the clear plastic fuel line that you get from hardware shops. it is well known that this fuel line goes very hard and brittle quickly once exposed to fuel. i would suggest obtaining some "tygon" fuel line. this is the correct fuel line to use...it never goes hard and is also clear so you can see what is inside the line. you can order this fuel line from precision aerobatics

www.precisionaerobatics.com

2.use a proper tank and clunk setup that is intended for model use. dubro and others make gas compatable tanks/clunks etc.

3. dont use a "T" fitting to refuel your tank. when you refuel the fuel will flow to the place of least resistance.(usually the carb itself) and it WILL flood your engine. once again dubro make a suitable refuel valve to suit gas fuel.

4.dont use nitro in a gasser engine. the carb wont tollerate the nitro and cause you problems. the pump valves and diaphragm are not nitro compatable. if you want more horsepower from your gasser convert it to run methanol fuel. most walbro carbs are methanol compatable without modifications. if you go this way i would also suggest you convert to run a glow plug as well. this takes care of the ignition side of things and is a small weight saving once the spark ignition system is removed. as well....glow plug engines dont cause inteferrence problems either.

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

with the clear fuel line, if it's for the perminant plumbing, it isn't going to be an issue, sure it's hard, but if it isn't going to be bent after instillation, what's the big deal? if you take the proper precautions it'll be fine, and is about $.15 a foot if you can find it in bulk instead of around $1.25 a foot if you can find it at the right price (recently found a hobby shop with it for around that)

almost all tanks are HDPE or LDPE, the only thing that changes between gas and glow tanks is the stopper and clunk fuel line, clunks are metal and aren't going to be an issue...

many have been running the gas/glow combination for a long time with no issues with the carbs...

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Yep.

AV8TOR

mikenlapaz

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYE84&P=0
Clear gasoline of glow fuel line bulk $.18/ft. Last time I looked it and their neoprene fuel line were listed on Ace Hardware site.

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

my ace is kinda funky in what they carry, and all the saw shops want $.45 an inch for tygon... I've found a hobby shop with some florescentish yellow gas line for like $1.29 or so a foot (what I was trying to say earlier), that K&S stuff looks like a decent buy, I might get some... but for now the nylon stuff is working with salvaged tygon at any joints that move or whatnot.

captinjohn

Advanced Auto has fuel line for weed-eaters ect. Look around when your there....they have lots of good stuff. Capt,n

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

From my experience, the transparent yellow fuel line seems better than the clear stuff. I cannot always find the yellow though.

hardtop351

let me ask you this.....

firstly...have YOU got this fuel line in YOUR model??....if you have then i would tell you that you wont have your model for very long as this sort of fuel line goes hard then brittle then breaks. we all know that large model airframes have to cope with plenty of vibration.....and all it will take is for this vibration to crack your fuel line right at the wrong time and in the wrong place. big deal you hafta spend a little more to get better fuel line...why be a tight arse just to save a few bucks when those few bucks could be the difference between taking your model home in one piece....or possibly taking a fellow modeller to hospital after your fuel line breaks and causes a crash. tygon fuel line is the only one that doesnt go hard or brittle....and its not that much dearer than your el cheapo crap clear fuel line

i have a motto that i stand by.........IF IT AIN'T RIGHT ....IT DON'T FLY
hard and brittle fuel line is WRONG

sorry to be so blunt but thats how i see it

mikenlapaz

Pemex gasoline must have some different additives as the tygon I purchased went stiff in less than one year!
The black neoprene pickup line on fueling jug is still doing fine.

Inspection and replacement is part of on-going maintenance.

captinjohn

I sure agree with hardtop. Good fuel line is a must. I have had tygon (yellow) and it also got stiff. The best fuel line is what comes on high price chain saws. It is usually a neopreme type ...black in color. I have seen it in good shape on very old saws. Tygon is not the best. It may not crack...but will get stiff so the clunk in your fuel tank will not work properly. I have picked up many engines to convert...with just a little crack in the fuel line. no wonder they could not get them to run consistently. Just my 2 cents worth. Capt,n[:-]

hardtop351

i honestly dont know what you guys over there in the usa have as choices for gas fuel line. yes there are several different types/brands of tygon. and unfortunately you cant tell which one will not go hard unless you "buy and try". as ive said before precision aerobatics have the really good tygon fuel line. this comes standard with their deluxe smoke system which i have fitted to my extra 300. its great fuel line...stays soft and is clear so you can see inside. the price is $1.85 per foot us price. the part number is ac-1619....check it out and yes they do supply to the usa via a company called troy built i think.

yeah i know all you tight arses will winge about "being sooo expensive"....but so are our large models to buy and setup. im glad i spent the extra few cents to get fuel line that will work and never have to worry about again.

cheers
craig


....."its goes like a rat up a drainpipe"

captinjohn

Do you see anybody here conplaining about price? If so show us. We are not all tight arses here....but not all of us are RICH either. Does everboby down there talk about Rats and Drain pipes? Regards..... Capt,n

mikenlapaz

ROFLMAO ....."its goes like a rat up a drainpipe"

captinjohn

Hey...Hows those guys from La PAS BCS? Whats all them letters stand for....anyway![:-]

predator500

My Feedback: (1)

I mean comon, we ARE converting weedie engines!

Just another update, I got the choke assembly from Buck1856 and should have everything ready to go tomorrow. Ill have to get a stopper for the tank still, plus a prop (any suggestions? Im thinking an 18x6, is that to big? Remember, aerobatic airplane). The fuel tubing is I think that K&S stuff that was mentioned earlier, Ill take some pictures of everything tomorrow and show you what I have. Thanks for all your help so far guys!

Colin C

mikenlapaz

captinjohn
Google it!

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

ok, so I'll admit I'm a tightwad... just graduated college and got a decent job though so I'm changing a bit. but I submerged a chunk of the nylon stuff completely in gas for like a week and it got stiff but still conformable, out of the quick and easy local options, I'd rather use that than pay $5 a foot for tygon... (the only price available locally) I have to go almost an hour out of my way to get the other option I mentioned earlier...

that being said, I think I can get some of the window washer tubing stuff from work, so I might change some of it over to that at some point... or I might splurge and get a bunch of the stuff from the hobby shop that's out of the way when I'm there for something else...

hardtop351

lol...thats an old saying here in oz.....just like "its as loud as a pair of possums fighting on a tin roof" or...."it goes like a cat across a hot roof"

hold on.....arent we taking about engines and stuff here??..lol[D:]

cheers
craig

___________________________________________

the fair dinkum ridgy didge aussie

aero nut

To get over the tygon issue, yes there are different kinds of tygon, the one that is suited for our needs is the the yellow "special for Gasoline fuel" usage with the words tygon written on the tube itself, there are some other look a like brands which are more transparent than tygon these get hard with time but better than clear vinyl line (prather products) it's also cheaper than tygon but to my likes not good enough, I have tygon fuel line that it been on my plane for 2 years and it's still flexible enough to work with but this is the original tygon, I buy it bulk through my work place. the only place I replace it once a year is the pick up line inside the fuel tank just to keep it as flexible as possible.

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

I use the Aerotrend "Easy Flex" gas/diesel tubing. It's light blue transparent. Dick Bennett sells it. Tower used to sell it too, but apparently not any more. It is advertised as non age hardening, and so far it has worked well for me, but I think it will still harden in the long run.

When I get around to order from Tower, I might give this a try for in tank use:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRZ80&P=6

predator500

My Feedback: (1)

Okay guys, tonight I finished my conversion! I cut down the choke and mounted it, and it works great! My next step is mounting the thing to the fuse of my plane. I have included some pictures in this order:

1.My Ryobi
2.Ryobi again
3.Cap 231EX fuse
4.Model number of the other engine I recieved recently
5.The fuel tubing I am using, dont know what type it is...
6.Engine, dont know what it is, any ideas?
7.Engine again
8.Again...
9.Again...


And thats it for now! I should be able to mount it this weekend, but I need to buy a bigger fuel tank, 8oz isnt going to cut it, Im thinking 24oz.

Colin C

mikenlapaz

I have two Ryobis mounted with 16oz tanks. That amount of fuel will run engine for well over 20 minutes with a reserve to spare. I chose use the space inside fuse for other things and saved having to carry around that extra fuel weight.
Sorta like trimming off the extra metal weight off engine.

Did you open up the reed valve limiter abit to about 1/8" allen wrench thickness?

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

I have a 10.5 oz tank suplying my Mac 32 and after about 12 minutes of flying at full throttle (it had a bit of a power issue) through 2 flights (tuned it, it helped a bit) it still had about 1/2 tank...

my instructer has a big stick (scratch built about 30 years ago) with an old but now rebuilt gas engine that's at 52cc, uses it to tow up sail planes, gets 3 tows out of a 12 oz tank with fuel to spare...

predator500

My Feedback: (1)

If you mean that little flap on the backplate then yes I did.

I know, 24 does seem a little much, maybe Ill go smaller, like a 16 if your saying that will give me 20 minutes flying time.

Anyways, anybody know what type of engine that is yet??

Colin C