yes I would be able to do them , the moki may require a different pin than the others , I would have to measure it and see

Ken could you PM me with the cost to do a ST2500 please. I'm thinking that I may just use it if the conversion isn't to costly.

Thanks,

Rick

I have posted a few pics of the 90 and 2300 to show what is being done internaly

here are some of the 2300 crank and rod bearing

Ken,

Are you converting both ends of the rod?

thanks, Will

I am modifying the small end and putting a needle bearing on the large end and machining the crank , it is not hard enough to carry the bearing

Ken, how much would you charge to modify a 2300 for me?? Please PM me.

Also, what do you do to the crank to allow it to use a needle bearing? New crankpin? Hardened sleeve?

Remember the old "boost porting" where a hole in the piston aligned with an added transfer port? I've often wondered if one of those would allow using the bushing on the rod at the piston pin with less oil in the mix. There is much less movement at that end of the rod, and that "boost port" system would allow the air/fuel/oil mix to flow right up under the piston, giving better lubrication to the wrist pin. Comment(s)??

AV8TOR

I can't give any pricing on here, that would make a comercial, but I replace the crank parts and modifie the upper rod also, and do some work to the piston
then comes the head work mainly to get rid of that little rimfire plug, they are pricy 16.00 each. I an posting more pics on my site as time alows.

I would like to know what you do to the pistion, rod and crank. By the sounds of it, this will make a very nice gasser.
Paul

surley you don't want all the secrets do you?

lol yep

I put a needle bearing in the rod and make some oil holes and machine the crank pin and put in a hard ground one so the bearing will not eat up the crank and the piston gets some machining for the bearings to oil properly and there are other machining nessasary also . There are several hours of machine work going in to this engine so that the conversion will last a long time.

On the crank pin, Did you run it and have it go bad? Is that how you know that the pin will not hold up?

By the looks and sound of it, It looks as if you are going to have a grate engine when you get it all worked out.

I started to do one some time a go but did not get it done. I got the rod done with berrings in it but did nothing to the pin or the crank pin..

I was not sure it was going to work. Seeing what you did I just mite start working on it. That is if I can get all the othere thing I got going on done

Paul

the crank pin is soft

We had ST cranks check for Rockwell once. They were between 18 and 34 Rockwell, some even were different on both sides of the pin. Needle bearings need a MINIMUM Rockwell of 58. With out proper rework the crank pin will last about 2hr before it begins to spall.

I am replaceing them with 65 pins

her are a couple finished one 90 and one 2300
I am working on 3 more each also

KenLambert: Nice looking gas conversion on that SuperTiger 2300. I bet it is smooth running. My guess it will be a popular engine in time. Best Regards Capt,n

what kind of rpms are you getting with the 90?

I have a BME Super Tiger .90 running on Gas/Glow. It's still "young" but it's turning an APC 13 x 6 at 11,600 rpms.

AV8TOR

the 90 is turning a 14x6 10,400rpm

Hi Bob.
Are you running it on 3% oil? if so did BME modified the bearings?

Yes, I'm running the now standard Gas/Glow mix, and yes, BME modifies them to run on a standard oil mix. The engine handles great. Did you see my earlier post on it??

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_12...page_49/tm.htm

AV8TOR

Ken, did you get my PM? Did not hear back from you.

yes I did , I haven't gotten to the final numbers yet