Do I miss a needle here?
#2
Senior Member
There is only one needle to adjust in some carbs. For airplane use the carb setting may not be the way you like it. Get a two-needle walbro if this one will be hard to adjust.
#3
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From: Moore, OK
if i am seeing correctly you have a high speed needle adjustment its the one with the spring. it has an 'h' underneath it. the one with the 'L' under it i can not tell if its adjustable. someone can tell you where you start your settings. I have set them but i guessed at the starting point.
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From: Woodland,
CA
I like to start of at 1 1/4 turns for the Low speed needle and 1 1/2 for the High speed needle.
It looks like you only have the High speed needle to play with.
With this carb you may need to run the stock exhaust to get it to idle right.
Also just unhook the spring on the throttle, do not remove it.
It looks like you only have the High speed needle to play with.
With this carb you may need to run the stock exhaust to get it to idle right.
Also just unhook the spring on the throttle, do not remove it.
#5
Senior Member
Ralph,
This carb looks as if:
1) the main needle is capped off (not accessable) to prevent user tampering (CARB regulations) (BTW: CARB = california clean air recommendation board or something like that), in order to set the mixture predefined for one single type of engine, for one single type of use.
2) fitted with a non-adjustable jet, again to obey CARB recommendations on CO emissions
so only the low needle can be adjusted.
Since we all know, i hope, that the low needle has influence from idle way up to full bore running, that one needle can make or break things. Set it too lean, and throttle response will suffer, and high end will be too lean. Set it rich, and low end. midrange will suffer, but high will be OK for us, not for the CARB Marshalls.
Midrange will putter alang as soon as the engine stabilizes, but this will not do well for 3D folks and for those that want their engine to respond crisply irrespective of the amount of running time at reduced loads.
These carbs suck, and veer past their target intentions ( if you want my opinion, in model engine application, they miss the target entirely!)
This carb looks as if:
1) the main needle is capped off (not accessable) to prevent user tampering (CARB regulations) (BTW: CARB = california clean air recommendation board or something like that), in order to set the mixture predefined for one single type of engine, for one single type of use.
2) fitted with a non-adjustable jet, again to obey CARB recommendations on CO emissions
so only the low needle can be adjusted.
Since we all know, i hope, that the low needle has influence from idle way up to full bore running, that one needle can make or break things. Set it too lean, and throttle response will suffer, and high end will be too lean. Set it rich, and low end. midrange will suffer, but high will be OK for us, not for the CARB Marshalls.
Midrange will putter alang as soon as the engine stabilizes, but this will not do well for 3D folks and for those that want their engine to respond crisply irrespective of the amount of running time at reduced loads.
These carbs suck, and veer past their target intentions ( if you want my opinion, in model engine application, they miss the target entirely!)
#7
Senior Member
The High speed needle is either closed off by a cap, or fixed. See my post #2 about this issue.
If you think there is something missing, rethink again. There is not! The carb just has less user input.
If you do not like it, get a carb with two needles, or find out if you can pry off the cap to get at the needle beneath the cap. Chances are there is none and there is a fixed jet
If you think there is something missing, rethink again. There is not! The carb just has less user input.
If you do not like it, get a carb with two needles, or find out if you can pry off the cap to get at the needle beneath the cap. Chances are there is none and there is a fixed jet
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From: Superior,
AZ
Does it look like this?This is a Zama carb,either came off of an echo or homlite weedie.Your engine in pic looks like an echo 24cc.Look for 3 triangles laying on there side that makes the shape of an E.look on base of cylinder and inside wall of the rear case.
number on mine is :K42K"---881or88i
Can you see any threads in hole or does it look like a piece of metal.My low is on left,high on right.Anyway,better just to get another carb.Get a walbro,heresa few numbers that have the same venturi.
WA167=====7.9 venturi------#20 stamped in intake maybe.
WA213=====7.9venturi--------- 20same as above
WT160B=====7.9 """""-----------""""""""""""""""""
I could give ya couple more with a bigger venturi but if its only a 21cc it wont take them anyway(like might not be a 24cc).
number on mine is :K42K"---881or88i
Can you see any threads in hole or does it look like a piece of metal.My low is on left,high on right.Anyway,better just to get another carb.Get a walbro,heresa few numbers that have the same venturi.
WA167=====7.9 venturi------#20 stamped in intake maybe.
WA213=====7.9venturi--------- 20same as above
WT160B=====7.9 """""-----------""""""""""""""""""
I could give ya couple more with a bigger venturi but if its only a 21cc it wont take them anyway(like might not be a 24cc).
#9
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From: Ha\'huzat Barak, ISRAEL
Thanks
Yes it look the same and C1U on the side.
In the open hall there is threads inside.
I try to screw the H needle in but it not come in.
It look to me that I miss the L needl.
Dose the H and L needle are diferrent ?
Here in Israel is very difficult to find other carbs.
Yes it look the same and C1U on the side.
In the open hall there is threads inside.
I try to screw the H needle in but it not come in.
It look to me that I miss the L needl.
Dose the H and L needle are diferrent ?
Here in Israel is very difficult to find other carbs.



