Fozjared,
You can certainly run a bolt through a starter cone and chuck it up in your drill. I''ve always found that it feels a bit ackward though, its not as easy to apply straight pressure on your spinner. If your starter is heavy enough you could just try your 18V battery and see if it will crank over using your current starter. I use an old sullivan with a 19.2V battery out of my drill. It easily starts my conversions. Obviously if it gets too hot, it''s too much battery......m

i have the cheapo tower hobbies 12v starter so that is a no go.. i can''t seem to get this thing to crank today, i put about 1.5 hours into finishing it and it is ready to fly except i can''t get the engine to start! i left the fuel bubble off and just plugged the vent line from the tank into the pump outlet and the fuel line from the tank into the fuel inlet nipple, but i see big bubbles inside the fuel line and when i flip the engine they stay stationary, i guess i needed to keep that fuel bubble? if i choke it and then put my finger over the intake inlet i can see the bubbles move slightly but it takes several flips to see them move 1/4" or so. i thought that fuel delivery must be the problem in this case, but i pulled the plug out and it had fuel on it! (brand new plug)

I''m not sure I follow what you did but, you do need to have the tank vented so that line needs to stay open. You do need to plug the hose that goes into the carb where (i assume) your primer bulb went in. All you should need from the tank is the fuel supply line into your carb and a vent to air. At the carb you need the one nipple plugged (usually some fuel line with a screw in it) and the other nipple has your supply line. I apologize if that is what you were saying, i just wasnt following. If you are getting fuel to the plug it should fire. Maybe you just need a starter on it to get it going and adjusted. Others may completely disagree but id hook that starter to your 18V and give it a try

hook my tower hobbies deluxe 12v to an 18v power source? just like on the .40 and .60 size engines that use the pressure from the exhaust to pump fuel, the carb pumps the fuel, so there are two hoses coming out of the front of my fuel tank, one with the clunk connected to it going to the fuel nipple on the carb and the other has the bent brass tube that points up in the tank and it is going to the pump outlet on the carb. is that not right? if i assembled it the way i think you are saying to i would have the hose that is attached to the bent brass tube venting free to the air and the other hose attached to the clunk going to the fuel nipple on the carb, and that would be the only hose that is attached to the engine/carb. if that is the case then how does the fuel get pumped into the carb? does it have a draw on the fuel or does that other outlet on the carb pump air into the tank to pressurize it?

The second part is correct. Unless you are using something different, the carb you have has a fuel pump in it. I''ll need to go back through the thread and make sure you are using a normal set up but normally you just have the line with the clunk going to the carb, the vent line is just open to the atmosphere. You will need to plug the other nipple on the carb though. Some do hook that vent to the exhaust for added pressure and others will swear its a safety risk, I''ve always left it as a vent to the atmosphere. As for the starter....yes i would hook it up to the 18V to get the engine started. Im sure you''re getting plenty frustrated flipping that prop. If you''re worried about that and your using some small battery, try hooking it to your car battery, maybe that will be enough to crank it over. Good Luck!

hooked the starter to 18v and it turned the engine good but got warm after about 15 seconds of spinning, so i set it aside but left it hooked up i looked back at it after about 20 more seconds and it had a faint stream of smoke coming from it so i unplugged it immediately and grabbed it and it was pretty warm but still worked with 12v.. so i took the starter cone off the starter and chucked it on a drill, but the drill wasn''t spinning quite fast enough so the engine didn''t start. i guess i will have to purchase a starter.. where can i find a good deal on a strong starter? and the clicking was the magnets against the magneta!! haha i feel ignorant! the magnets weren''t actually touching, it was just the jerk of the magnet''s attraction causing a slight click. honestly i am worried about this engine, something just doesn''t seem right, there is a brass screw on the side of the carb where the gas inlet is it seems to be backed all the way out and there is epoxy or something all around it holding it locked into place?!

I''ve hooked mine to 24 volts.

Put the power to it, slap the prop with a gloved hand when it''s stuck on the compression stroke
and away ya go.

If yer gonna buy one, sullivan dynatron. Had no trouble starting my ryobi with a garden tractor battery.
You might want to rebuild that carb. If the diaphram is stiff it''ll be tough to start. I dont know about huskies but on ryobi''s, a good starting point for the needles is 1 1/2 turns. Might not be a bad idea to mount it on a stand for easy access.
Edwin

it is easy access on the plane itself fortunately, unfortunately the needles have stops and can only turn about 1/2 turn on each needle. oh and the engine is a stihl not a husqvarna.. the husky had a right hand engine so i had to use a different one, a 30cc stihl.

You can take off the stops on the needles. More crap from the CARB board in CA as well as other states.

Definately take those limiters off.

well the needles are actually two little plastic heads with a flathead groove cut in them, so i have no idea how to remove the limiter. i just need something that will start the engine, i cannot get the darn thing started, i had it in a vise in my father''s shop, but now it is on the airplane, in the vise i got it started with an air impact gun but i am afraid that using that now that the engine is mounted up would destroy the mount. if i could just get something that would spin it fast enough i could probably get it to run and then i could adjust it so it would keep running. in the vise it would run for about 15 seconds and then sputter and die it never gave me enough time to adjust anything.. i only got it to run about 3 or 4 times and i fooled with it for about 2 hours! plus i destroyed the rubber cone that goes in the starter!

I only delt with limiters once way back on a chainsaw. Seems like all I had to do was pull them off. Cant remember. Anyway, maybe somebody else has a bit more knowledge on that.
Edwin

Yep most are plastic and can be snipped with a cutter and removed which will expose the metal needles.

broke the plastic loose on the adj. needles and got the engine running, adjusted it out and it runs like a top now! i can't wait to get it in the air!!!

i flew it today in 20mph winds.. all the lhs had was a 14x8 prop so i used it, it was making about 7800 rpm so i taxied it up and down the runway to get the feel for it, then i tried to fly it and it wouldn't rise, so i backed up and had to use the entire runway! it finally rose up but its climbout was astronomically slow, it was basically in a stall the entire time that it was facing into the wind, i made about 3 big laps but could never get much above the tree line, so i brought it in.

so i fueled it up and flew again, this time it seemed to be running a little stronger than before so it rose up a little easier, but was still near stall when it was facing into the wind.. i made 4 big laps, everything seemed ok until i got to the other end of the field and for some reason with full up elevator and full throttle it was still dropping the nose slightly, it came on down and bent the flimsy engine mount i rigged up, didn't even break the landing gear or anything else, just the flimsy engine mount, so i was fortunate.

in hindsight i believe she was nose heavy, i suspected it on the first flight, but didnt change it and i could tell a little more on the second flight with a full tank of gas! but anyway what would you guys suggest to mount this engine with? i was thinking some L brackets from lowes? what i had was a 3" strip of aluminum (an old road sign that i cut to shape) and the 2 bolts at the bottom of the head mounted to that aluminum, then i reinforced it with some flat L brackets that i cut down the center and slid over the aluminum. ( the L bracket slid over the aluminum after i ripped it down the center and was perpendicular to the aluminum but flat against the side of the fuselage) but the road sign was weakened by the 90 degree bend i made in it and that is where it bent then broke at when i tried to straighten it back into position. what could i use, the carb is mounted to the back of the engine where the 4 bolts are that i think most of you use.. all i have available to mount the engine is the 2 bolts that hold the entire head of the engine on.. they will work fine to mount with as they are long enough, but i just need something strong enough to mount to!

First thing I would do is change the prop. A 18x10 or 18x8 would do. Even if all you could get was a Top Flight prop.
Edwin

18" on a 30cc engine? i was thinking about trying a 15x7 or 16x6 i dont think 18 will work.

Oh Ya. Try an 18x6

I run 18x6 and 18x8 on my ryobi's. You're way under proped. I run 14" on 4stroke .91's. My US41 is very happy with a 18x10.
Edwin

but mine is a 30cc, not the originally mentioned 39cc!! should i try an 18x6? with the 14x8 it only put up 7800rpms does that sound about right or a little weak? i think that if the 14x8 is small for it then it should have spun it much faster than that? no suggestions on an engine mount?

edit: what rpm should i look for if i use an 18x6? 7000ish?

I have a 25cc Toro that I believe has a 16x8, and it turns 8000rpm.
It should turn a 18x6 close to the same rpm.

Please list eveything you have done to the engine.

That will make everything easier to comment on.

I ran 18x8 on a ryobi (31cc) at 6700rpm. The engine was pretty much stock, no special rings, no bigger bore carb, just a cut down fly wheel and home made prop hub. Just opened up the reed stop to about 1/8". This was on a 14 lb bandito grande, 82"ws. Very spirited flying. It could have easily handled a 16 maybe even 18lb big wing slow flyer with ease. 18x6 should be about right.
Edwin

i have done nothing at all to this engine besides a home made prop hub and adapter. but it only turns the 14x8 about 7800 rpms i will try and get an 18x6 prop sometime today and see what i can get out of it.

some magneto's have a rev limit, you might have found the limit for that particular one...