Gas engine starter
#1
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From: Gresham,
OR
Just for grins, I cut off the front shaft of an old Sullivan starter. It was chucked up in a Makita 18 volt drill. It started 42 cc poulin with no problem. It had plenty of power on high speed. The mass of the battery keeps it really stable. This is now my standard starter for all of my engines. This can't be the first time this has been done?
Anyway , you might try it.
motorhd
Anyway , you might try it.
motorhd
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From: atlanta,
GA
Hey, motor, I use a similar setup, but the problem I have with some engines is the drill doesn't spin fast enough. I can't increase the voltage, so I don't know how to make it spin faster. Plenty of torque, though.
Rick
Rick
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From: Goodland, KS
Want a good gas engine starter, try this. I took a long shaft gas sngine off of an extra McCollough string trimmer, and fashioned a holder for a larger cone. Starts even the big ones. I left the handle and the throttle on so i can give it a real wind-up. With a long shaft, you can fashion them to start either direction if you have dual's.
#4
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Hey kids, want some real stuff to play with? What about this on board starter, uses a speed 600 motor, and responds to the touch of a button on your transmitter.
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From: Goodland, KS
That's a neat looking set-up, what does it use for a battery, and wat is the total weight, appx. I meant to say a McCollough Chain saw engine. Most ot them have a shaft on either end, and most Homelites do as well. Flathead
#6
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weight is about one lbs, including the 3S lipo.
Adapting the system to the rear cone of course needs some machining skills, but IMHO can be done very well.
Adapting the system to the rear cone of course needs some machining skills, but IMHO can be done very well.
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From: San Tan Valley,
AZ
ORIGINAL: pe reivers
weight is about one lbs, including the 3S lipo.
Adapting the system to the rear cone of course needs some machining skills, but IMHO can be done very well.
weight is about one lbs, including the 3S lipo.
Adapting the system to the rear cone of course needs some machining skills, but IMHO can be done very well.
#8
Blasphamy
!!!
Pe, how do those u-joints hold up. I like that setup. Has anybody done a bendix setup to the starter ring?
I have used my milwaukee 18v drill on the high gear to start up to a G-62, no problems. I use a grade 8 allen bolt red locktited in a 3" sullivan starter hub, chucked up in my battery drill. I used my dynatron on a 12v garden tractor battery to start a ryobi every time out.
Edwin
!!!Pe, how do those u-joints hold up. I like that setup. Has anybody done a bendix setup to the starter ring?
I have used my milwaukee 18v drill on the high gear to start up to a G-62, no problems. I use a grade 8 allen bolt red locktited in a 3" sullivan starter hub, chucked up in my battery drill. I used my dynatron on a 12v garden tractor battery to start a ryobi every time out.
Edwin
#9
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The U-joints are onder no kind of real load at such small angles, so they hold very well. Would do even better with a dry moly alloy lube, or just some graphite dust rub.
Please disregard the electric's guy's comment. The Lord surely forgives him, because he knows not what he just said.[
]
Please disregard the electric's guy's comment. The Lord surely forgives him, because he knows not what he just said.[
]
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From: Barcelona, SPAIN
Really nice setup, pe reivers! [&:] It's the first hybrid plane I see (kind of a flying Pryus)! 
Back to the topic, at home I use a regular drill with a starter cup. The cup can be bought alone in many shops, along with the rubber, or can be easily machined if you have the tools. For the axle, a simple screw and a nut works great. I tighten this to the drill so the cup is touching the chuck; you have enough clearance and it's rock solid.
I'm searching for an old cordless drill for the field. Should not be difficult to find, they're quite cheap and people soon replace them.

Back to the topic, at home I use a regular drill with a starter cup. The cup can be bought alone in many shops, along with the rubber, or can be easily machined if you have the tools. For the axle, a simple screw and a nut works great. I tighten this to the drill so the cup is touching the chuck; you have enough clearance and it's rock solid.
I'm searching for an old cordless drill for the field. Should not be difficult to find, they're quite cheap and people soon replace them.
#15
One of our field starters is a 18hp briggs and straton riding mower starter converted for airplane use. Havent found anything it wont start as long as the spinner can hold up. Uses a car batter. Really big, really heavy. You gotta really need it to go to that much trouble to haul it out.
Edwin
Edwin
#16
A friend of mine used to be the head of the Japanese group on the Byron Aviation show. He had to start a bunch of zeroes fast at the beginning of the show, he had a two handed starter built out of some type of car starter, this thing weighs about 10-15 pounds with the battery on the ground ! ha ha ha
I have never seen it used first hand.
As for using the drill to start motors, I tried this for awhile but the drill seemed to want to spin the chuck loose and kick out the shaft holding the cup.I thought I was really tightening it well, its one of those hand twist types. But the spinning up hard counter clockwise seemed to loosen it?
I have never seen it used first hand.
As for using the drill to start motors, I tried this for awhile but the drill seemed to want to spin the chuck loose and kick out the shaft holding the cup.I thought I was really tightening it well, its one of those hand twist types. But the spinning up hard counter clockwise seemed to loosen it?




