Hi,

When you take out the gasket under the cylinder to raise the compression, here is the stuff to use to seal it. It is called Yamahabond case sealer from Yamaha. A tube runs around $6.00. We use it on our engines in our ultralights as well and this stuff works great. I just used it on a Homey hop up I'm doing and as always, it sealed perfectly.

Now my question: On the carbs with a plunger bubble for priming, can you just run a "Y" fitting in your line from the gas tank, or do you need to run a separate line??

Thanks,

AV8TOR

Run a separate line would be better. Otherwise, you couldn't get the air out of the system.

If you have a carb without the bubble built onto the back of it and you choose to remove the bubble from the system, you best just plug the return line at the carb.

Enjoy,

Jim

Hi:
In my ryobi I used a Robart 1/8 "T" plastic coupler to use fuel from the carb line trough the priming bulb to first start the engine, No problem with that.

How much can I reduce the high of the cylinder to raise compresion, The ryobi has a gasket around 1mm thick and I think that remoe it could be too much...

Thanks
tato.

My understanding is that you want a minimum of .025" clearance between the closest part of the cylinder and the head. One way to check the quench clearance is with solder. Insert it in the spark plug hole, and carefully turn the engine over through one complete revolution. Then measure the flattened part of the solder. That's your clearance. I use the narrower diameter rosin core electrical solder for this.

Good luck,
AV8TOR

Tato:
When you check the cyl on the crankcase, put the piston at top dead centre and make sure the bottom of the piston doesn't uncover the bottom of the exhaust port. If it doesn't your OK. I've had that happen on some engines.

Fly paper:
I get the point, is very simple, but...
to find the TDC I hace to bolt together the two halves of the ryobi crack and cylinder, then how can I see if the piston is covering or not the ports??, I guess it can be done by measures all around only. Not big deal.
thanks
Tato.

Tato:
Only the bottom of the exhaust port you need to worry about and you can see it without the muffler on. If it's open, exhaust gas can blow down into the crankcase. Not nice!

O.K. all understood. I misssed the "exhaust port", undertanding "fuel ports". Now that you tell me ...it is So easy!!.
Thanks.

av8tor1977
Have you tried it on the muffler / head joint? Having a heck of a time keeping that sealed on Ryobi.

I chose to use the remote primer bulb (suction from engine ). Installed a small "T" from drip irrigation system into line going back to tank. The added line serves as a fill line for the tank. Plug when not in use and a filter in the tank.

Trying to get a Homelite weedie/blower to run. The attached bulb collapses once and stays depressed. Tried switching the line and no joy. Walbro carb diagram WT-318-1 shows bulb as either part of air purge or cover for fuel pump . The fuel line (inlet or outlet) is located on same side of carb as the fuel line entering the main body of the carb.

Any tips on how to printout a schematic large enough to read the numbers on the parts?

Hi,

No, I haven't tried it on the mufflers. Don't think it would work all that well as it is for machined surfaces, and it is designed to be squeezed into a thin film by those surfaces. It also doesn't fully harden. I use High Temperature silicone on exhaust surfaces, but you need to be sure to let it dry for 24 hrs.

On the schematics, if you right click on them and save them as a photo, then you can use a photo program to "zoom" in on them and enlarge enough to read better. I like the ACDee See photo viewer/program. It is available for a trial download at their website.

Sounds like the valve that lets fuel into the bulb is stuck on your Homey.

Take care,
AV8TOR

Sealing the exhaust:

I get tired of bolting again and again the ryobi muffler to change the gaskets, so finally cut out from 5mm aluminum a flange squared and drill in the shape of the motor exhaust, then bring it to a guy who is our aluminum guy that welds all our custom made mufflers and made my own eith a lot of noise reduction. To be sure about the sealing and have no bolt losening I drilled and tapped the holes to 1/4 and used allen scres. That is the best solution of all.
Tato