Blade47

I want ALL the Kits you have Don ... just no way you can build them all

jetpilotrich

Elevators were HITEC HS635HB, ailerons are Digital HS5475HB (would have rather used the regular HS475HB) cheaper and just as strong, Rudder was a HS645MG.

I prefer FUTABA servos but they are way expensive.

I would like to use all metal gears everywhere but they just have to much play in them. In a high load, high speed application I like to use the Karbonite gears as opposed to the nylon gears.

I think that the Karbonite gears are the way to go! Strong gears without the play or the weight. I think the HS475HB would be better than the digital ones that i put in because the digital servos are just that.... a digital output... I can see the incremental output in the flight control surface even with a 1024 signal! I would rather have an analog output. You may want to use a HS635 or stronger servo for the ailerons if you intend to use flaperons... they are under more load with the flaps extended.

The Rudder servo is also under significant load from the nosewheel and 2 rudders! That is a lot for one servo...plus the rudders have a tendency to flutter so having metal or Karbonite there is a good idea! The play in the rudder servo seemed to null itself out by attaching the nosewheel and both rudders.

Also i have found that you cant use a metal(aluminum) servo horn with a metal gear servo... it creates a lot of play! So use Aluminum horns on Karbonite or nylon gears.... and use nylon or GRP horns on metal servos.. BUT NEVER METAL ON METAL! Bottom line is use what ever is tight!

jetpilotrich

The distance from the aileron hatch to the hole in the wing root is really short... just a few inches... you can easily run a servo lead through it even after the plane is comlpeted! You dont even need to put in a string to pull it through later. You do need the servo for mounting the wood blocks on the aileron hact cover... but you can do that later. here is a pic of my custom 4-40 aileron rods and the servo area set up!

I also used a 4-40 rod for the rudder and elevators! I am sure these pics will generate questions!

Rich

HaveBlue

thanks for the info and photos Rich, I thought the hs 475hb would be good enough, as thats what Ive ordered for my F20, although I will follow thru on your suggestion on the uprating the ailerons and rudder, since two rudders + nose wheel is a bit of a load . I'd be interested to hear how a flaperon function would work with the Flanker
The Juno Hornet does not recommend using flaperons but supplies instructions on the plan to build flaps instead which I think I'd prefer, I have only one plane that use the flaperon function( F4 Phantom), but havent had the need to use it yet as it slows down sufficently on approach so I really dont know how effects a plane when in use, ...I suppose I could try it ...although Ive only had two flights on the F4 and still have issues to sort out with it. to early to experiment with it maybe after a few more flights I'll give them a go just to see how they work out

jetpilotrich

The elevator is probably the most critical surface!! I think Alex at AKM used the HS605s (no longer in production) the HS 635 is the replacement for it and better due to the Karbonite gears.

Rich

Atom Ant

You can always use a 6 volt battery for the HS475. You will get more torque and the same speed as the HS635. Any thoughts on 6 volt?

jetpilotrich

The candle that burns twice as bright burns half as long! I have never used 6v. Never had a need for it! I may try it one day, but I dont think it is needed! besides... you need a heavier battery!

Atom Ant

Houston, We Have A Problem. I can not find FTC1 in my kit. I have 2 FCC's and 2 FTC2's, but can not locate the 2 FTC1. It is the part for the upper middle side of the fuse. I could fabricate this part easy, but I am unsure of what other parts are on the sheet. Does anybody know what sheet FTC1 is on and what other parts are on it?

HaveBlue

I located FTC1 on sheet 33, which has the wing jig and the pieces marked "EC"


lol.. I noticed now that I have 2 sheets marked "33" but not one marked "32" I'll email AKM see whats suppose to on that sheet!

ChuckL

My Feedback: (2)

Here is mine ready for covering, I have a new Jett 90L for it.

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

When I get back to California...come on down for a visit. Bring your checkbook! LOL.

Don

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

I'm glad you guys are doing okay on this, thanks "Jet" for taking over.

Blade47

But how is your SU coming along Snoop?

Atom Ant

Question. If epoxy bearings are so good, why do the instruction use torque bearings for the elevator? I just completed my epoxy bearings on the rudders and they are sweet, very tight and smooth. I used chap stick. Also, should I sand the epoxy flat to match the wood at the top of the groove?

Rudeboy

Well, the elevator torque rods are a lot longer than the rudder torque rods. That means the two nylon bearings used are further apart... they are so far apart that there is very little slop. If you were to use the same system on the rudders, where the distance is very short, slop would develop.

Also, the way the elevator assembly is constructed would make it a bit difficult to incoporate epoxy bearings... but there's no one stopping you from using epoxy, is there?
My elevator torque rods are constructed out of steel foil (from a pop can)... no slop and very strong.

If you look on the plans to see where the rudder torque rods are located, you will see that the epoxy has to match the wood at the top and bottom of the groove.

jetpilotrich

I would love to see a picture of the elevator torque rods you made from steel foil from a POP can!

Rich

Rudeboy

I bet you would...
I just read what I posted there and I was LMAO... I won't correct the post, so others can see it... lol

What I meant was that I made my elevator torque rod BEARINGS from pop can material....

It's hard to make out in the picture, because my camera sucks, and the bearings are obviously the same colour as the rod itself (and VERY thin).

DHG

My Feedback: (7)

Aw, darn, and I was already almost done rolling a pop can into a 1/8" solid rod ... now my fingers hurt.

Thank goodness there was no Chapstick involved.

jetpilotrich

Thanks...... To bad you cant get a clear picture........ always looking for new ways to do things. I had lathed mine from solid brass rod stock using a OD Micrometer Guage to match the thicker torque rod I used to the bearing. Then inserted it into a C&B Associates GRP hinge.... Its rock solid. The plastic bearings just dont cut it. Ultimately, I think the epoxy bearings are best.... but you cant install one in this area... you still need something to insert into the stabilizer. The epoxy bearings work perfect on the rudder.

I can produce the torque rods for anyone interested... if there is enough interest! I installed mine after i had already installed the plastic bearings but BEFORE gluing on the elevator.

Rich

jetpilotrich

or alcohol!

ChuckL

My Feedback: (2)

Ok let me try again, I tried to upload some pictures a few days ago but it didn't work.[img][/img][img][/img]

ChuckL

My Feedback: (2)

Ok that didn't work either any suggestions I never get the confirmation that the upload screen says to wait for it just says done at the bottom but no pictures.

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

When you click on reply, click on the the upload script at lower left of the reply box (doesn't appear if you use "fast reply"). Do you get a box with 4 upload boxes? Browse your harddrive and then choose 4 pictures one at a time? They all have to be less than 3 megabytes total.

Looking at your reply post it appears you are trying to link pictures instead of uploading them.

Don

ChuckL

My Feedback: (2)

I hit the link button because I didn't know what else to try. Yes I get the upload box, pictures are about 400kb each in jpg format. After the upload appears to be finished it will say done at the bottom of the upload screen but there aren't any pictures

Blade47

ChuckL after you have selected your pictures as above "Don" and you click OK then you must ....wait .... a box will appear to say that the upload was successful .......THEN ...... post your reply.