Sparhawk

Mods - since the blue on the wings and fins are accent pieces, I used the Blue Econokote because it is light and takes a lower heat rating to have a good adhesion to the white Monokote underneath. In that way, the regular white Monokote is not overheated when trying to stick down the blue. The only thing that concerns me is all of the sharp points on the scheme. It will be very easy to have them start coming up. Be very careful when doing them, as the iron (with a sock) can easily roll and ruin the nice sharp points. The trick for that is to use a hole punch and create a bunch of round dots, out of CLEAR Monokote, then use them to seal the points. Tedious work, but it will save the sheme from coming loose.

I have tackled complicated schemes in the past, but this one is, by far, the most time consuming plane I have done. AND, I am just starting to cover it...LOL. Actually, the bottom will go fairly quickly, as it is not that complicated. If you read back a few pages, you can see where I have enhanced the top engine pieces and the tail boom. They look a lot better this way.

Spar

nchrome

Sparhawk make sure that when you bank to turn that you add a little opposite rudder or she will dive on you. This I learnt the hard way but learned it fast. I have a ST 90 on mine with a 13/8 prop. I also found out that on the spring airs that you have to mount the struts backward in order for them to fully retract. Just a little help there for you.

Steelie

My Feedback: (18)

SparHawk,
Something worth considering might be to spray a couple light coats of Top Flight Lustercoat clear gloss (or semi or flat) over the entire model when done. This really helps to seal the seams on the covering. An itty bitty dot of CA on the really sharp points of the trim, would anchor it well or your idea of clear dots applied just before the Lustercoat. Adds a little weight but significantly lenghtens your finish's lifespan.

Sparhawk

That usually indicates a nose heavy CG condition. Any plane/jet of mine that showed that behavior has had the weight moved rearward until that nasty habit dissappeared. Are you balanced on the mains?

Spar

nchrome

Yes it is balanced just like the plans call for this is with an enpty tank. Is there something that I missed or is mine just unique on this flight carituristic.

iFLYrc_Vic

My Feedback: (6)

I have not flown mine yet, howerver, I have heard that prop jet planes dive in the turns. So you must be aware of that and make proper adjustments prior to makeing a turn. I would surmize that you just don't roll over as far before "pulling" on the elevator for the turn.

Sparhawk

I never really took noticed if they did or not. I know that all of my EDF jets that duck in the corners, especially the F20 from HET, it was taken care of by moving the CG back.

Well, the fuse covering has begun. While the bottom may look easy, it has its own challenges, especially with this color scheme. One engine pod/intake is done, and the other will be done tonight, then I can start on the remainder of the flat bottom sections with the white. I left the black covering extended so that I can add the engine nozzles later and have a proper seal. I don't want any sections of covering where the overlap faces forward.

Spar

nchrome

Sparhawk Take a look at your nose wheel opening and try to box in where the nosewheel is, Cause this will be a trap to catch all the nitro& oil and feed it into the main fuse. I found that an exhaust deflector realy doesn't realy work that well here[:@]. Also you may want to check out the mains openings too. If you cover like most planes are built (that is start from the back and go to the front) all your seams will be overlaping from the front. Less chance of fuel getting under it. Just a little help[&:]. Also I have a F20 seting on the side waiting to be finished. Most of the fuse is built and I have a Fox 75 on the nose. Wings are mounted and that is just about it though. Do you think that the fox has a chance to hall this baby around? Mite use either a 13/8 or a 12/8 prop.

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

One way I found to fuel proof covering seams is to go over all of them with clear fingernail polish. Same kind the females use. Once dried you can't see it and it's fuel proof. I haven't had a seam come up yet using this technique.

Mods

Sparhawk

If I can have some peace and quiet for a few hours, I might actually get the bottom done this week..
Here a couple of covering shots. Always put in a strip on any inside corners. Makes overlaps easier later. I still have to add the white lightning bolt to the sides of the engine bays, then I will have the worst part of the bottom done. See full scale for what I am referring to. Then, its on to the topside and all those lovely curves!!!

Spar

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

Looking really good!

Don

Sparhawk

I finally finished the bottom, and left a little extra white on the LEX. You can see it hanging off the front. Tomorrow, I flip her over and begin the final, major portions. After I complete the top, I can assemble the left over bits like the rudders, engine nozzles, and boom section, then complete any final markings, such as the numbers and lettering on the fins. It is slowly getting there.

Spar

Sparhawk

On with the topside!
First step is to lay in covering on the inside corners. These are just 1/2" wide strips, folded and ironed on. This ensures good seems later on. To try and cover this in one piece is undoable, unless it was fiberglass cloth. In pic 2, before I glued on the top engine pieces, I drew some patterns to make the edges around these easier and cleaner. In pic 3, You can see both inside strips, right up to where the red ends on the scheme + 1/4" overlap for the white. In pic 4, you can see the first two covering pieces placed over the engine humps. Whatever is left over will overlap towards the center hump.

More to come later.

Spar

Sparhawk

Here are some pics of the almost completed jet. The white star still needs to be put on the very top, but that will be saved for last. Just have to glue on the vertical stabs and complete the linkage for the rudders(epoxy bearings, etc). A little more to do on the canopy and cockpit and she should be ready to fly sometime this week.

Spar

Sparhawk

Ok, I am one day closer to being done. The things to finish:

1) Cockpit / canopy
2) Install rudder linkage.
3) Install Rx in one Engine nozzle.
4) Install Rx battery in other engine nozzle.
5) Lateral balance.
6) Longitudinal balance (CG).
7) Glue on boom with any balance weight if needed.
8) Radio checks for dual rates.
9) White star on back, markings in the fins.

GO FLY!!!

Spar

Sparhawk

Cockpit shots! At least I have someone to blame if the plane goes in...

Spar

Steelie

My Feedback: (18)

Sparhawk


Wow. If hot chicks decide they now like guys that fly RC...we can thank you for it. Look at that aircraft. Holy smokes.



Steelie

Sparhawk

Thanks Steelie! I am kinda glad there are no hot chicks around, how else would I be able to concentrate on any flying??[8D]

Here is the last batch of pics until the maiden flight. She is already to go except for the tail feather markings, which I will have completed in the next couple days. Enjoy.

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Real nice covering Job!

Sparhawk

Thanks G! Your's as well. Is it still flying?

Spar

Sparhawk

Balance - Lateral balance was almost dead on. I needed 1/4 oz, then I realized I forgot to include the Jett pipe... doh! I bolted it on, and then I needed another 1/2 oz for a good balance. I then buried the weights into the bottom of the missile rails (I left the covering off for this purpose). Nothing to see!

With the OS91, Jett pipe, and 16 oz fuel tank up front, I needed to add another 2 1/4 oz in the boom to achieve the correct CG. My mains are bent back slightly so it sits a little more solidly then if they were left straight down. Plane tips when I raise her about 2" - 3".

I will try to get an AUW figure later. But it feels in the range of 9lbs.

Spar

Mods - are these enough pics for you? Have fun covering yours. If I had a garage to shoot paint, I would have glassed this and masked the scheme out, and it would have been a lot easier than using Monokote.

Blade47

Spar: I have my SU at less then 1" tip back on the mains ... If your more then 1" you may have a hard time getting (unstuck) for take off and find that you may/will use all the elevator ( 2 1/8" ) for landing.

With 16 oz of fuel in the nose ( I have 14 oz ) it will keep the nose wheel on the ground for take off.

If Rich is still looking in I think he has his c/g set about the same at 1" tip back as well.

The 3/4 oz in the wing tip is about what I have.

iFLYrc_Vic

My Feedback: (6)

Sparhawk inspired me (kicked me in the arse) to get my plane to the field. I had only a few items left (on purpose) to finish before she is ready. Well, after going through Sparhawk's final checklist, I made the same checks on my bird. Everything was fine until I checked the lateral balance. She tilted hard to starboard as a result of the engine and tuned pipe on that side of the plane. I chopped up some lead weight (don't know the weight) and placed it on the left wing near the hard point at the end of the wing and got her balanced. This was a significant amount of weight. Now I need to "berry" the weights into the rack and recheck the CG.

Thanks for making me check the lateral balance again. That would certainly have cause some trim issues.

Sparhawk

Glad my "checklist" was of some help to you. I'd hate to learn of yours doing something stupid for no reason. It's good that you caught it.

Tonight I received some new Robart wire struts for the mains. The ones that came with the Spring Air kit that I got, must have been from an older set, as the coil interfered with a full "up" lock condition, so the new Robarts will make them work fine now. I almost forgot to seal my hinge gaps, so that got done tonight as well. I am running out of stuff to do with this bird!!

Before anyone says anything, I included a pic of what I am talking about. See how the Robart strut has the lower portion in line with the top section? Now look at the strut that came with my Spring Airs. It doesn't matter which way you turn it, half of the coil is still facing the cylinder, thus preventing a full "up" lock.

Spar

Steelie

My Feedback: (18)

Sparhawk,
Thanks for the lesson on the strut switcheroo. This is something for me to put into my notes. Based on your decision to use the Robart struts, woud'nt it then be better to use Robart retract assemblies?...or are the Spring Air cylinders still a better choice?



Steelie