smoknrv4

My Feedback: (11)

I'm still waiting for my kit that I ordered on the 26th of April, so I've dicided to build my Juno F-20 instead.

I really like the idea of the stabilator mod, I going to contemplate the idea for my su-27, I wish Mods would finish his and let us know how it flew first before I try it, LOL.

Robert Strouse

Gutaaooo,

I noticed you are using brass tube on your torque rods. There really is no need for this. Simply lube up the rod witha thin layerpetroleum jelly and pour the epoxy over it. When it dries you simply snap it loose. This willleave no play between the rod and the resultant bearing. Aswell the control will move smoothly without any sticking. The key is to make sure you let the epoxycure completely before trying to snap it loose. If you don't you can disturb the inner workings of your bearing.

I retrofitted mine with 1/8" rods after the nastiest flutter Ihave ever seen. Since then the flutter is completely gone. No matter what Ido Icannot get the flutter to reoccur.

I do like your end connectors. For mine I cut the head offa 1 3/4" x4-40alloy bolt that Isilver soldered and bound with copper wire.

Anyhow good luck building.

Robert

Gutaaaooo

Hey Robert,

Tks for the incentive to go ahead with the epoxy bearings, I actually wanted to, but was afraid to make a mess, and not do it right, as I have never done that before. I was gonna try it, but a friend told me to try out the brass tube, and i did not get any play, and the rods don't stick at all....except i did have to redo one, for it was sticking.:P
I'll do the epoxy bearing on the lower part of the rudder, i could have the brass tube all the way down, and just encase it in epoxy there too, but I want a excuse to do a real epoxy bearing

I managed to sheet the top of the fuse...took me the whole weekendto get the balls to do theLEX sheeting, but it turned out far better then i thought it would. I guess the trick is to sand the sheeting where it touches the center of the fuse as best as you can so they fit with no step. Also getting the sheeting parts shaped before you glue them in lets you position then much more easily. Putting the sheeting in the exact right place while fighting with the sheathings wanting to bend back on you makes the whole thing much harder. I had to use very little filler there, and I ended up having to fill/sand that part very lightly to get a smooth transition. Since I'll have it painted by a pro, i really want the wood work to be the best it can be.

I forgot my camera with a friend in the field, so I'll try to get it tomorrow and post some pictures then

Robert Strouse

Gutaaaaooo,

It will shock you at how easy and effective this method is. For my epoxy bearings on the fins, Isimply monokoted the both sides of the fin then sealed the bottom with modelling clay. After I was sure there were no gaps and that the rod was properly lubed. Iused a syringe filled with epoxyand filled up the monokote dam. Make sure you seal around the base of the rod or the epoxy will leak down the rod toward the vertical stab. As an extra measure I heated some vaseline and dripped it into the hole just in case some epoxy leaked by. If you tape the rudder so that it doesn't move on you and pack around the rod with clay you shouldn't have a problem. Interestingly the clay will actually make the rod move smoother through that section.


Ihope this helps,

Robert

Gutaaaooo

OK! Back in town, so back to the build.

I still haveto sandthe top abit more, but I'll leave that to when I'm ready to glass it.
I'll also be using robostruts, and for the mains I had to lengthen the #650 robostruts by 38mm to get the right length. Like rickpaw did, I used a 3/8" aluminum rods, and on top of the 38mm I milled another 20mm of the rod down so it just fit TIGHT on inside the robostruts. Some loctite metal glue, and one set screw for peace of mind will be enough to hold it in place. You guys would not trust how good some hard loctite will hold metal parts together, specially if the are already tight to begin with.

Another note, if you do a a case around the retracts so oil, dust, etc does not get inside the fuse, be careful with where the wing hold down plate goes in. I made my "box" just the right depth so that the retract would slip right in and out for cleaning. If you do this, you will have to cutthe front corner, just under the retracts (picture)I'll close this off later, from insede when I glue the reteact plates in place,

For securing the wing, I put some 6/32 blind nuts on the wingbolt plate, and some ply blocks both on top and under where the wing boltplate will be. I had to open the slot in the wing plate just a Little for the blind nut to go in. The ply plate that in between the bolt plate, and the top sheeting is resting on a balsa block, and was taped with the blind nut in place ,so the bolt plate/wing will not slide out even a bit. The other ply plate is opened more, so I can put a carbon tube in that will go go to the retracts plate, and serve as a bolt guide. Hope this does not sound too complicated

Gutaaaooo

Ok, haven't done anything much in the last few days...To much stuff happening together, plus a possible surgery that will make this take even longer...I was really hoping to get this one ready before that, but I guess not...in the next few weeks I'll know

Obs... I REALYneed to clean my shop!....maybe tomorow...LOL

smoknrv4

My Feedback: (11)

Got my kit last week, shelfing it till my f-20 is done.

jodini

My Feedback: (2)

It worked!

Well somewhere in here I posted some fixes for the flutter and it worked like a champ and very responsive. I flew it around today for the first time since I crashed it last year (from flutter) and this time it was rock solid!

The fixes: added a thin sheet of ply to the bottom of the stab and elevator, dubro hinges and monocote the hinge for no gap, and the big one....new servo placement....tons of throw now!

Here's the pics again.....

ser00

Hi Jodini,

I wondered what happened to you. I am glad to see that it worked for you. I was curious if it was going to work or not. I think I will do the same when I build mine. Do you have any issues with the rudder (flutter)? Did you follow the suggestions for the rudder in this forum? Have fun flying the plane!

Happy flying and soft landings!

jodini

My Feedback: (2)

I never did have problems with the rudder so I kept it stock. I think my rod going across to the two is pretty thick, so I could of done that.

But I will say, when I built the kit, it did seem like the balsa on the elevator stab was softer than the rudder and flexed. And I never liked the torque rod on the ailerons. I was really over working my servos to get as much throw as possible. Now my servo moves about 1/2 of the normal distance and it's moving the elevator 4 inches total travel no problem. Now things feel very tight and the plane was just whistling along.

Sorry I disappeared for so long. I should of had this tested out last year, but winter came and I started to work on other projects....autogyros mostly.

There has been some amazing mods on this model....moving stabs, airbrakes, fancy retracts.....I love seeing what guys are trying.

Alright ser00.....start building!

kleinssz69

Hey guys. I need to know from where to buy 3/16 struts for my Spring Air retracts. Those I have are too short.

I didn't want to read the whole thread again, so sorry if this has been discussed numerous times.

darthvaj

i machined extension to fit in my Spring Air and then used the 3/16 wire as needed.

funflyer10203

My Feedback: (1)

Here's mine finally completed. Weighs in at 9.5 lbs!! Using a ST 90, Spring Air retracts, epoxy paint, century jet pilot, missles on the wingtips. Now to fly it.......

ftjets

funflyer, I've thought about trying to be fiscally responsible and put a ST 90 in mine. Please let us know how it flies with it.

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

Nice !

lgaines85

funflyer, Have you flown your plane with the ST90, and if so how did it go. Did the motor have enuf power, etc etc etc.

Larry

evanspa

I am getting ready to build this plane as my first PropJet. My Q's is: The 91FX is no longer in prodution, will the 95AX w/Jett Muffler be acceptable? Or should I look for a 91?
Thanks looking forward to this build.

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

According to the Tower website the .95 AX has the same mounting dimensions as the .75 FX.

Shouldn't be a problem at all

Don

evanspa

I figured the motor would fit. I've have FX and AX series motors. I'm actually not impressed with the AX engines. They seem to be more "Grunt" Than Speed. Okay for my 3D stuff but not sure about the RPMs. It also comes in just under an ounce heavier. Is there a Jett Muffler for the 95AX?
Anyone used the 95 on the Flanker?

smoknrv4

My Feedback: (11)

When I get around to building mine, my Jett 90 will be going in it... I finished messin' around with the "sport" OS's long ago, not really up to speed planes.

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

Yes, the 95AX will use the same JettStream muffler that is used for the OS 61/75/91 engines

BigBadJon

Well, finally got to maiden my flanker. couldn't have been any better, right now its using a magnum 91 with jettstream muffler, nice combo, ( but still holding my wife to her promise about getting me a jett 90 for Xmas lol) overall weight without fuel is just under 8ibs. just beautiful to watch. makes me want to get another one lol.

Ravivos

did anyone tried build one of these magnificent kits to be powered by a turbine?
i am flying my falcon120 with a RAM500 (12lbs thrust) and wondered if i can modify this kit to hold the turbine.
maybe installing a wren44 which is smaller and lighter.

although its a twin engine plane, the turbine can be mounted at the back (between the tail pipes) and covered by a nice cowl to hide it.

if this plane is too small to house a small turbine, maybe it can be enlarged by 10%-15% to be able to carry the extra weight without going into a fatal wing loading numbers.

any thoughts will be welcomed.

Raviv.

Billybuck

I was wondering if 1/8 fully threaded rod would work for elevator and rudder instead of solid rod?
Also, where do you buy the plastic bearings (look like hinges) that you use to attach the rod to the elevators?

Also has anyone done a fixed gear setup. If so, what did you use for main gear mounting blocks?

Someone here said there are no dumb questions. I'm testing that theory a bit.

Thanks for your thoughts on this.

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

Hello Bob