First speed plane
08-28-2007, 01:55 PM
#27
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RE: First speed plane
OH my is right. Expert makes a nice 720 mah NIMH 4.8 volt pack that I have been using in most of my racing stuff.
I ran many planes on 270 mah NICD packs, but I use a lot of digi servos now and thats cutting it a little tight.
I ran many planes on 270 mah NICD packs, but I use a lot of digi servos now and thats cutting it a little tight.
08-28-2007, 04:01 PM
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RE: First speed plane
Another source I've used quite a bit is Fly Fast Composites. They have a 500 MAH NIMH that I used before I went digital, also, quite a bit cheaper. Than again, there 900 mah NIMH pack is about the same weight as the expert pack.
http://www.flyfastcomposites.com/pro...ccessories.htm
They are also in Canada, may be easier for you. Call Terrence before ordering, he doesn't always have them in stock, although its been a while since I ordered some from him.
http://www.flyfastcomposites.com/pro...ccessories.htm
They are also in Canada, may be easier for you. Call Terrence before ordering, he doesn't always have them in stock, although its been a while since I ordered some from him.
08-29-2007, 11:59 AM
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RE: First speed plane
WEll im part way done the viper and took a few pics take a look a let me know if you can see anythign i may have forgotton i know the throtal servo isnt hooked up to the servo arm and that i havnt put the peice of fuel tubing on the clevis's
08-29-2007, 12:04 PM
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RE: First speed plane
Its coming along nicely 
A few items I see here.... if I may......
get rid of the screw-type hose clamps.
they will eventually cut through the coupler (works like a cheese slicer). And they are heavy. The coupler is not a structural attachment between header and pipe ---- the pipe mount takes care of that.
Just use a 1/8" wide nylon tie wrap on each end of the coupler. Pull them tight. This is mainly to keep the pipe or header from moving around inside of the coupler, and to provide a gas seal so it does not leak.
Glue on the forward tank hatch. You can slide the tank in and out through the wing bulkhead if needed later. Add some 1/4" triangle stock to the upper edges of the fuselage and top side of the firewall, and glue the hatch securely around all four edges. You need the stiffness on the front end with that engine. (of course, remove covering from the suitable glue surfaces)
Very important the the RX be well packed in foam, and does not physically touch the airframe. Looks rather snug back there... perhaps install it up in the main compartment under the wing?
One other item.... seal the aileron hinge gaps (not optional in this case). You may want to seal the elevator gaps too. Use iron on covering, blenderm tape, or even just heavy transparent "scotch tape" works fine. Deflect the surface full up, tuck the seal tape down in the gap.... and afix to the flying surface and control surface.
Bob
A few items I see here.... if I may......
get rid of the screw-type hose clamps.
they will eventually cut through the coupler (works like a cheese slicer). And they are heavy. The coupler is not a structural attachment between header and pipe ---- the pipe mount takes care of that.
Just use a 1/8" wide nylon tie wrap on each end of the coupler. Pull them tight. This is mainly to keep the pipe or header from moving around inside of the coupler, and to provide a gas seal so it does not leak.
Glue on the forward tank hatch. You can slide the tank in and out through the wing bulkhead if needed later. Add some 1/4" triangle stock to the upper edges of the fuselage and top side of the firewall, and glue the hatch securely around all four edges. You need the stiffness on the front end with that engine. (of course, remove covering from the suitable glue surfaces)
Very important the the RX be well packed in foam, and does not physically touch the airframe. Looks rather snug back there... perhaps install it up in the main compartment under the wing?
One other item.... seal the aileron hinge gaps (not optional in this case). You may want to seal the elevator gaps too. Use iron on covering, blenderm tape, or even just heavy transparent "scotch tape" works fine. Deflect the surface full up, tuck the seal tape down in the gap.... and afix to the flying surface and control surface.
Bob
08-29-2007, 12:10 PM
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RE: First speed plane
we had nylon tie wrap on it but found that it would not hold it it was just spitting oil out of both sids the coupler maybe i will give them a try on the plane.........
08-29-2007, 12:29 PM
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RE: First speed plane
ORIGINAL: bob27s
Its coming along nicely
A few items I see here.... if I may......
get rid of the screw-type hose clamps.
they will eventually cut through the coupler (works like a cheese slicer). And they are heavy. The coupler is not a structural attachment between header and pipe ---- the pipe mount takes care of that.
Just use a 1/8" wide nylon tie wrap on each end of the coupler. Pull them tight. This is mainly to keep the pipe or header from moving around inside of the coupler, and to provide a gas seal so it does not leak.
Glue on the forward tank hatch. You can slide the tank in and out through the wing bulkhead if needed later. Add some 1/4" triangle stock to the upper edges of the fuselage and top side of the firewall, and glue the hatch securely around all four edges. You need the stiffness on the front end with that engine. (of course, remove covering from the suitable glue surfaces)
Very important the the RX be well packed in foam, and does not physically touch the airframe. Looks rather snug back there... perhaps install it up in the main compartment under the wing?
One other item.... seal the aileron hinge gaps (not optional in this case). You may want to seal the elevator gaps too. Use iron on covering, blenderm tape, or even just heavy transparent "scotch tape" works fine. Deflect the surface full up, tuck the seal tape down in the gap.... and afix to the flying surface and control surface.
Bob
Its coming along nicely
A few items I see here.... if I may......
get rid of the screw-type hose clamps.
they will eventually cut through the coupler (works like a cheese slicer). And they are heavy. The coupler is not a structural attachment between header and pipe ---- the pipe mount takes care of that.
Just use a 1/8" wide nylon tie wrap on each end of the coupler. Pull them tight. This is mainly to keep the pipe or header from moving around inside of the coupler, and to provide a gas seal so it does not leak.
Glue on the forward tank hatch. You can slide the tank in and out through the wing bulkhead if needed later. Add some 1/4" triangle stock to the upper edges of the fuselage and top side of the firewall, and glue the hatch securely around all four edges. You need the stiffness on the front end with that engine. (of course, remove covering from the suitable glue surfaces)
Very important the the RX be well packed in foam, and does not physically touch the airframe. Looks rather snug back there... perhaps install it up in the main compartment under the wing?
One other item.... seal the aileron hinge gaps (not optional in this case). You may want to seal the elevator gaps too. Use iron on covering, blenderm tape, or even just heavy transparent "scotch tape" works fine. Deflect the surface full up, tuck the seal tape down in the gap.... and afix to the flying surface and control surface.
Bob
08-29-2007, 12:37 PM
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RE: First speed plane
the coupler should be tight on its own.... the ties are just to prevent any coupler motion during engine run. It is that motion that tends to cause leaks.
Make sure the aft pipe mount is solid... the pipe can not move.
This is all that is required on the header (see photo)
Make sure the aft pipe mount is solid... the pipe can not move.
This is all that is required on the header (see photo)
08-29-2007, 12:41 PM
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RE: First speed plane
its not the firewall... the entire front end of the plane will twist in flight. Gluing the hatch on will get rid of that issue... creates a full box structure right up to the wing saddle.
08-29-2007, 07:37 PM
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RE: First speed plane
Bob is 100% correct, glue the tank cover down! Also, don't slam a spinning electric starter on to the motor, is the starter cone well centered? If your starter motor is too weak, turn the prop off compression(watch your fingers,use the spinner) than trigger the starter's switch. Try to spin it a few times with no power to the glow plug. Make sure it's not hydro locked. If not, get a bigger starter.
08-29-2007, 09:18 PM
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RE: First speed plane
I must really be behind the times. Three different dual rates, all with there own expo setting? I have never owned an electric starter and plan to continue using my wood handle screw driver. I crank my fuel by hand too.
I totally agree that a fuel tank hatch can cause some twisting and can rob power. However, on my sport Q-500 Blackjack II (SJ 50) I do have a hatch that starts about 3/4" back from the firewall. It has simplified my life a couple of times with over 100 flights on it. If I was not competitive racing I would do it again.
I totally agree that a fuel tank hatch can cause some twisting and can rob power. However, on my sport Q-500 Blackjack II (SJ 50) I do have a hatch that starts about 3/4" back from the firewall. It has simplified my life a couple of times with over 100 flights on it. If I was not competitive racing I would do it again.
08-29-2007, 10:21 PM
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RE: First speed plane
I agree with Bob, the rigidity of the nose of a plane has an impact on top speed. Gluing things solid DOES make a difference. The avereage speed flyer may not notice the difference, but a 1/10 of a second here and there make a huge difference to the racers.
08-30-2007, 12:28 AM
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RE: First speed plane
I't wasn't so much the speed I was thinking about, it was keeping the firewall on the plane[X(] I know of two planes that lost the engines in flight (one landed with the engine dangling by the throttle cable), they had screwed down fuel compartment hatches.
08-30-2007, 08:17 AM
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RE: First speed plane
Besides the power loss due to the flexing of the nose, gluing the hatch will give you one more edge glued to help keep the firewall in..
08-30-2007, 10:43 AM
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RE: First speed plane
I modified your pic to show how I would install a hatch. This way you can install tri stock on the top edge of the firewall and have some top side support. When using a sport engine firewalls come out because they were not installed properly, not because of a hatch.
I blacked out the big hunk of ply in front of the firewall because I couldn't figure out why it was there. If it is for the CG I would find another way. It looks like your plane is going to be heavy.
08-30-2007, 11:51 AM
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RE: First speed plane
ORIGINAL: daven
freakenfast, where did you get that fuel line pinch in the picture?
freakenfast, where did you get that fuel line pinch in the picture?
That looks like a smaller version of the clamps we homebrewers use in beer and wine making. Check your local homebrew supply.
08-30-2007, 03:14 PM
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RE: First speed plane
ORIGINAL: Mike Connor
I modified your pic to show how I would install a hatch. This way you can install tri stock on the top edge of the firewall and have some top side support. When using a sport engine firewalls come out because they were not installed properly, not because of a hatch.
I blacked out the big hunk of ply in front of the firewall because I couldn't figure out why it was there. If it is for the CG I would find another way. It looks like your plane is going to be heavy.
I modified your pic to show how I would install a hatch. This way you can install tri stock on the top edge of the firewall and have some top side support. When using a sport engine firewalls come out because they were not installed properly, not because of a hatch.
I blacked out the big hunk of ply in front of the firewall because I couldn't figure out why it was there. If it is for the CG I would find another way. It looks like your plane is going to be heavy.
Just my .02 worth..
08-30-2007, 04:13 PM
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RE: First speed plane
The other peice of plywood has 2 purpses it would give a little bit more to screw into but more importatntly it was to strenthen the one that was there now i dont know if there all like that but it was week it seemed like it was pressure fit without any glue
the blue fuel line clip that you see in the pics is actully ment for rc trucks apparently alot of them have a problem with the engine flooding when not in use (could be wrong .....)
the blue fuel line clip that you see in the pics is actully ment for rc trucks apparently alot of them have a problem with the engine flooding when not in use (could be wrong .....)
08-30-2007, 05:11 PM
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RE: First speed plane
ORIGINAL: diggs_74
Actually Mike, I believe the firewalls depart because they don't have enough glue/ glass on them, not because something wasn't installed correctly..
Actually Mike, I believe the firewalls depart because they don't have enough glue/ glass on them, not because something wasn't installed correctly..
As far as that other chunk of ply on the front, I can't see from the pictures how it is helping. If your firewall was not put in right at the factory you have no choice but to remove it and do all the things listed above.
I have been reading these stories about Q-500 ARF quality for a long time and it is hard to believe people still buy them AND recommend them.
08-30-2007, 06:13 PM
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RE: First speed plane
The only way it could help is because the extra peice is epoxyied to all the surfaces including the old firewall and glasses in there its not that the first one was bad it was more that it seemed very thin and that it could easly crack for the new firewall to crack is very unlikly....