bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

http://www.strega.com/index_01.shtml

I also recommend looking around here http://www.aafo.com/ Good forum to join/view too.

Victor Archer can be found through that site. He is one of (correction.. THE best) aviation photographers I have run across in my many years. He work is amazing, and he has documented Strega MANY times from all possible angles.
http://www.cafepress.com/aaphotography

I am sure if you put out a request on AAFO for info or for contact with Tiger Destefani or the team you will be lead in the correct direction.

Caution though... many of the race teams require licenced production of some of the copywrited designs. They sell branded merchandice to help fund the racing teams. Often enough its reasonable to comply with. But something you may want to look into a bit.

Bob

look

Thanks, I will take a look !!

look

Any suggestions to attach the cowl to the fuse ?
On the back I can make a bolt.

Strykaas

I would have installed two dowels at the front + nylon bolt / blind nut at the back... but you've certainly envisioned this already[:-]

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

tape.

look

@Strykaas do you mean a dowel at 45 degress ?
How do you make and align that ?
@Bob I want to do a nice paintjob so taping is easy but will be messy in the long run and will damage the paint.
I am looking for a nice and strong solution.
The BVM hooks I am not sure if they will work because the belly pan closes almost vertical.
You can not slide it because of the two 90 degrees spots in the belly pan.
Yes, on the back I want to use a blind nut and bolt. So it is difficult.

At the moment the wing underside has been glassed and the wingbolts and formers are ready and glued to mount the wing.

Strykaas

It's not with this post that I am going to impress the RCU community with my strong CAD skills lol [&:].

I think the design is self explanatory, it actually slides to the front.

The difficulty lies in safely attaching those wood blocks to the main fuse part. But you seem to master adhesives, so it should not be much of a problem.

Strykaas

OK I have looked closer, the wing joint is preventing it from sliding either way, making my suggestion useless.
[sm=thumbs_down.gif]

In this situation I would make the two front dowels vertical (for strength) + one more bolt/blind nut at the front.

look

Strykaas, you are right. But you are an artist !! Thanks for the drawing !! It looks very good. Or two strips of plywood (one on each side) with a blind nut and a small bolt. Regards, Look

The stab has been glued in the fuse and filler has been applied. Tomorrow I can send the filler and start with the thin glasscloth on the stab and wing. The stab has been glued on the outside wit ZAP green and on the inside with UHU plus.

look

It was time for glass on the wing bottem. Cut the glass in an eggshape and use a brush to apply 25 hours epoxy. Make the borders 2cm wider for sanding :

look

When the epoxy has been dried sand the spot for the wingbols and sand the wingbolt plywood CNC parts for glueing with UHU plus:

look

Cut the foam with a sharp knife for the servo and remove the foam carefully. Later the cnc part for the servo will be drilled and glued:

look

Mount the wing to the fuse and line out the wing that it is 90 degrees to the fuse. Tape the wing carefully to the fuse and drill the two holes.

Nickosfly

Look,

You're doing a great job.
With this building documentation even a beginner can make this plane!!
Super!

Grtz

look

Take the cnc plywood parts for the blind nuts and use a hammer to mount them. Glue with ZAP 30 min.
Make the hole for the wing bolts a lttle wider for the end of the blind nuts:

look

Nickos, Thank you !! I am glad you like the building advises.

look

Use wax or grease on the thread to protect against glue. Use ZAP 30 min. on the cnc plywood blind nut parts. Use the bolts to apply the blind nut part. Watch plywood touches plywood so the end of the blind nut fits well in the fuselage former for the wingbolts. Every bolt separate works fine:

look

Draw the stab spar at 30% on the stab. Cut through the thin plywood with a sharp knife. Cut the foam carefully and remove the foam with a small cross screwtool. Fit the stab spar en when OK make the spar a little wet and dry it with a towel. Apply constructions glue (foaming) an aplly some glue in the cut out for the spar. Push in the spar and use masking tape on both ends. When the glue is fully dry remove the glue and sand it.

look

Put the stab in the fuse. Line it out with the wing horizontal. Measure the distance from the wing LE to the stab TE on both sides of the stab. So from the topvieuw the stab has the same angle as the wing. When all is OK glue the stab from the outside off the fuse with ZAP green. On the inside ( with the cockpit down) with UHU plus, use a small stick. Next day use filler the make all smooth ( from fairing to stab).

look

Now it is time to apply thin glasscloth ( 25 or 40 gramms) with thin epoxy ( I always use Wilsor epoxy for rotten wood). Or you can use polyurethane lacker but thinned and thick as water. Apply with a roller, start in the middle of the wing or stab. Sand the edges a day later and then the top can be glassed. Again let the glasscloth hang over and when dry sand the edges and sand the complete wing. Apply another coat of thin epoxy or lacker. Sand it and apply surfacer. Watch the weight sand as much weight away to keep it light. A light models is faster and flies better. When you want to apply Monokote or Oracover the glasscloth is not necessary.

look

I am still looking for a good mounting system for the belly pan. Who can advise please ???

stressball

I can't help you with the belly pan issue, but after reading through most of the thread and looking at the pictures, I have to say you have an amazing skill and insane attention to detail! I guess you need everything to be perfect to go super fast and this build seem to deliver! Keep it up!

ke6gkc

I do not know if you have thought of this but would dowels going into the area on each side of the header by the engine where it is angled and then bolted in the rear? I am not sure if this would work because I haven't been able to get a good look at the belly pan.

Good Luck

Bruce

look

Thank you both. With your help and support the job will be completed. This is the work I like a lot designing airplanes and the parts.
Maybe I can use on the back the dowels and on the front the bolts. These last jobs are difficult because I have never mounted a belly pan. I only have to make a servo tray with steering, rudder and the elevators. I have started glassing the wings to start with the paintjob. I will make a picture of the complete belly pan. It is difficult to mount this belly pan but the problem will be solved.

stressball

Not sure if this will work, but I'd consider it if I were to mount it...

Let me try to explain;

In the front end, you fasten some sort of lip, to slide into the cowling opening. With the speeds you are going to do, I guess some strenghtening must be done. And in the back, you put a wooden block on the inside, make a cut in the bellypan and use a screw in an angle to fasten the back end. The cut in the bellypan is to get the head of the screw to sit flush with, or just a little bit lower than the fuselage.

I've attached a sucky drawing to "explain" a little bit.