E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
#1553
I REALLLY want one of these helis. But the only problem is I have never flown before. I have read it is not for beginners but I don't want to have to spend money on a beginner heli and then in a couple of weeks have to fork up more cash I don't have to get a more advanced heli( at 16 I don't exactly have the cash to keep up this, my car, and my nitro truck). Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Also from videos I have seen is this an ok heli to occasionally use inside in a room about 20ft. high and 30ft. around? It looks to be a little squirrelly when trying to hover. I will mostly be using it outside at a school grass and baseball field with the night ranger 2 my friend is getting in about a month for his birthday.( hopefully I will run circles around him with this) Thanks for your time. Matt
#1554
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
The best place to start learning is either a hardwod gym or lanolium (sp?) floor, or what I have found works quite well too. I take my tramp and take all the legs off with the map attached to the springs like someone were going to jump on it. This works really well because the tramp absorbs some of the harder landings, and it also slides, instead of tipping over. It's also really great because the air goes through the tramp which really lessens GE. One thing to note is that you want to set it down in plenty of time so it doesn't slide into the springs. Also watch the wind when you fly it outside, especially until you can hover pretty well. If the blades have a low angle of attack, the wind will force the heli to the ground, and if it has a high angle (blade tips above level in the direction of the wind) it will cause the heli to go up.
As far as where you can fly it, that's on the bigger end of where you need to fly it. It would probably be good to start out there, and then you can go from there.
I was in the same boat as you... with how much people talked about how hard the CP or Pro was, and that if you could fly it you could fly anything... I was really intimidated... I almost got the CX2, and if I would have, I would have gotten really bored really fast. It's all up to you and what you can handle.
Get yourself a controller and practice with FMS for orientation, just do it with the realization that FMS is not realistic, and just bceause you can do something in FMS, likely you cannot do it with a real heli. Just take it slow and follow Radds... if you need the link I'm sure we can get it for you.
I took pics of the two controllers I use. The playstation style was about $20 bucks, and I actually bought that as an after thought because I wanted to play a helicopter game that required a button for action (indoor rc helicopter =P, cheesy game, but I love it =). The other controller is an esky USB controller, that is basically an ESKY Tx setup to hook up with the computer.
In the near future I am going to have a post for a flight sim cable for the e-flight 6ch Tx.... I have one and it is working and fairly simple to make.
Hopefully that answers a few q's... if you have more don't hesitate to ask
I just realized I forgot to attach the pic =P
One other thing is the PS style controller does not have a very accurate throttle. You have to hold it where you want it instead of just setting it like a normal aircraft Tx.
As far as where you can fly it, that's on the bigger end of where you need to fly it. It would probably be good to start out there, and then you can go from there.
I was in the same boat as you... with how much people talked about how hard the CP or Pro was, and that if you could fly it you could fly anything... I was really intimidated... I almost got the CX2, and if I would have, I would have gotten really bored really fast. It's all up to you and what you can handle.
Get yourself a controller and practice with FMS for orientation, just do it with the realization that FMS is not realistic, and just bceause you can do something in FMS, likely you cannot do it with a real heli. Just take it slow and follow Radds... if you need the link I'm sure we can get it for you.
I took pics of the two controllers I use. The playstation style was about $20 bucks, and I actually bought that as an after thought because I wanted to play a helicopter game that required a button for action (indoor rc helicopter =P, cheesy game, but I love it =). The other controller is an esky USB controller, that is basically an ESKY Tx setup to hook up with the computer.
In the near future I am going to have a post for a flight sim cable for the e-flight 6ch Tx.... I have one and it is working and fairly simple to make.
Hopefully that answers a few q's... if you have more don't hesitate to ask
I just realized I forgot to attach the pic =P
One other thing is the PS style controller does not have a very accurate throttle. You have to hold it where you want it instead of just setting it like a normal aircraft Tx.
#1555
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From: AldergroveBritish Columbia, CANADA
OK, i need help! My helicopter vibrates like crazy on the ground, and is now even harder to control in the air. and if you go over top of the heli, and spin the blades up so it doesngt lift off, the top thing moves around in a circle.....like wobbles sideways in a circular motion. So i was wondering if the (forget wht its called) the thing that holds all the stuff is bent? or are the blades flying out of track. I have no clue what to do sooooo...... HELP please. Oh and i was wondering if the plastic cemetrical blades are good for the CPP? Thanks
#1556

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From: Mackinaw,
IL
Lilpilot13,
Most likly the main shaft is bent. Remove the blades and power your BCPP on, and see if it still wobbles. If it not wobbling, open the book your bcpp came with and look up about tracking and how to set it up.
XTMer,
Look into buying a used one here on RC Universe. There are always blade CP and CPP for sale and you could get a really good deal. The blade Cp is a little easyer to fly in my openion and is easy to upgrade the head to the CP pro. Lots of good prices on upgrades also.
Most likly the main shaft is bent. Remove the blades and power your BCPP on, and see if it still wobbles. If it not wobbling, open the book your bcpp came with and look up about tracking and how to set it up.
XTMer,
Look into buying a used one here on RC Universe. There are always blade CP and CPP for sale and you could get a really good deal. The blade Cp is a little easyer to fly in my openion and is easy to upgrade the head to the CP pro. Lots of good prices on upgrades also.
#1557
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From: Seattle,
WA
What is the best lipo upgrade for a cpp pro with a Brushless and DD upgrade? I am just in the hovering stages now and can hover a full pack but it seems like I could hover longer with a different pack. Thanks
#1558
Thanks for all of the help. I have found some good deals on used ones on Ebay also, for like 150 with extra batteries and other stuff. I think I will go for it. I usually catch on to stuff quickly and hope this will be the same. This weekend I will probably go play on a sim at a LHS and learn before I buy.
#1559
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
Alot of people go for the TP packs for the highest performance, but they are quite expensive. The main sizes are 730 ($43) 910 ($47) and 1320 ($55).
http://www.thunderpower-batteries.co...yBatteries.htm
Also check out www.commonsenserc.com they have really competetively priced batteries. Like I just bought 1250mAh 8C 3s lipo packs for $33 bucks for two.
http://www.thunderpower-batteries.co...yBatteries.htm
Also check out www.commonsenserc.com they have really competetively priced batteries. Like I just bought 1250mAh 8C 3s lipo packs for $33 bucks for two.
ORIGINAL: Rexor2
What is the best lipo upgrade for a cpp pro with a Brushless and DD upgrade? I am just in the hovering stages now and can hover a full pack but it seems like I could hover longer with a different pack. Thanks
What is the best lipo upgrade for a cpp pro with a Brushless and DD upgrade? I am just in the hovering stages now and can hover a full pack but it seems like I could hover longer with a different pack. Thanks
#1560
One more thing. I am now stuck between this and the axe cp. I have read a lot of comparisons between the two and cannot decide. I like the stability and durability of the axe that I have heard, but want the nimbleness and part support of the blade to do some sweet stunts. (after of course I learn how to fly REALLY well normally.
#1561
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
I don't know what everyone else thinks... but the reason I went with the blade is three main reasons. I like the fact that the e-flite has the 3-in-1 incased in plastic. The axe just has a circuit board covered in clear heat shrink. Another reason is the blade is more widely supported, and you can get parts for them at just about any hobby shop that sells electric heli's. The other reason is that the Tx on the e-flite has knobs to adjust the throttle curve on the idle up, and on the channel 5 for remote gyro gain, where the axe does not. The axe also comes with a NiMH, and a regular hiller head, and not the bell hiller. This makes the axe cp more comprible with the regular blade cp.
Some pro's for the axe. The Tx is trainer cord capable with futaba radio's. It costs less. It has a bigger tail motor (n60 instead of n30, although you can buy the tail for either one and put it on the other, so that's not really that big of a deal). It has an aluminum tail boom, which has it's pluses and minuses. Only a 5ch radio. A 380 main motor. And the axe has beefier stock landing gear than the blade, which is better for training, but probably is not quite as good for aerobatics.
All in all though they are really quite close


Some pro's for the axe. The Tx is trainer cord capable with futaba radio's. It costs less. It has a bigger tail motor (n60 instead of n30, although you can buy the tail for either one and put it on the other, so that's not really that big of a deal). It has an aluminum tail boom, which has it's pluses and minuses. Only a 5ch radio. A 380 main motor. And the axe has beefier stock landing gear than the blade, which is better for training, but probably is not quite as good for aerobatics.
All in all though they are really quite close


ORIGINAL: XTMer
One more thing. I am now stuck between this and the axe cp. I have read a lot of comparisons between the two and cannot decide. I like the stability and durability of the axe that I have heard, but want the nimbleness and part support of the blade to do some sweet stunts. (after of course I learn how to fly REALLY well normally.
One more thing. I am now stuck between this and the axe cp. I have read a lot of comparisons between the two and cannot decide. I like the stability and durability of the axe that I have heard, but want the nimbleness and part support of the blade to do some sweet stunts. (after of course I learn how to fly REALLY well normally.
#1562
ok im stomped i was told it was my 3n1 that was bad but not so much.now i no clue why it wont hover for more then 2 min.
and when i go full thottle it sounds like it go slower and get all hard to handle any help would be great i am ready to put this thing in the trash
thanks
Tom
and when i go full thottle it sounds like it go slower and get all hard to handle any help would be great i am ready to put this thing in the trash
thanks
Tom
#1564
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
well if you want to take some time and go back through it... I'll help you out... I just need to be refreshed what the situation is again because I don't remember =)
#1565
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From: AldergroveBritish Columbia, CANADA
[sm=48_48.gif]I just bought a new main shaft and then when i was installing it, the screw got stripped and now i have to go back to the hobby shop and get another one![sm=48_48.gif]I dont like going back and forth to the LHS!
#1567
ok i can only hover for like 2 min then it acts like the batt is dead. it flys great for the first 2 min then it falls to like 2ft off the ground and will stay like that for a while but it is strange when you push it to full the rpms drop.at first i thought it was the motor so i put a new one in that was not it so i put a differant battery in that was not it called e-flite they said it was the 3n1 so i put a new one in that was not it.i have played with pitch and that does not seem to make a diff. i have rebuilt the head three times new center hub ,spindle,main shaft,ect. any help whould be great
thanks
Tom
thanks
Tom
#1568
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
I can't remember if you said you had replaced the main motor or not?
How hot is the motor getting?
You might try reseting the tension of the main pinion on the main gear. Just space it with a 20lb copy paper.
Do you have a multi-meter? If so measure your batteries after a full charge, and after your 2 min flight.
Also does the head have any binding in it? and is the swash centered?
Is the main shaft lubed enough on the bearings? 3 in 1 oil is what you want to use.
The main thing it sounds like to me is that either the batteries are not delivering a good C rating after time, or somehow they are not quite charged (like your charger isn't filling them up all the way). If you can get a volt reading, that would tell if that could be the problem or not.
Hopefully that should give you a place to start.
How hot is the motor getting?
You might try reseting the tension of the main pinion on the main gear. Just space it with a 20lb copy paper.
Do you have a multi-meter? If so measure your batteries after a full charge, and after your 2 min flight.
Also does the head have any binding in it? and is the swash centered?
Is the main shaft lubed enough on the bearings? 3 in 1 oil is what you want to use.
The main thing it sounds like to me is that either the batteries are not delivering a good C rating after time, or somehow they are not quite charged (like your charger isn't filling them up all the way). If you can get a volt reading, that would tell if that could be the problem or not.
Hopefully that should give you a place to start.
#1569
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From: Locust Grove,
GA
Tom235,
Also check to make sure nothing is touching the main gear. I had the same experience and finally realized that the top of the main gear was rubbing against a plastic wire tie that wrapped around the frame.
Also check to make sure nothing is touching the main gear. I had the same experience and finally realized that the top of the main gear was rubbing against a plastic wire tie that wrapped around the frame.
#1570
thanks for your fast replys the main motor is getting pretty hot they are all new motors.the batt. are brand new and i tryed a friends thunder power 1320 charger on his charger and it did the same thing.the head feels pretty smooth and most parts are new but i did not lube the shaft i lubed the orings where the spindle goes though .
whats the best way to center the swash plate? or how long do you have your rods?
main gear is clear. i will try lubing the main shaft and the gear mess and see what happens
thank
Tom
whats the best way to center the swash plate? or how long do you have your rods?
main gear is clear. i will try lubing the main shaft and the gear mess and see what happens
thank
Tom
#1571
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
no prob, and you're welcome =)
yeah... centering the swash is done with the servo rods... if you can take a pic I can tell you if yours is good or if you will have to redo it.
Did you by chance break the motors in... probably not the problem... but it would help.
Does the motor seem to spin freely with the main gear? I didn't quite get what you were saying
someone else had a simular problem, but they replaced their 4 in 1 and it fixed it... but you said you already did that...
Check all of the wires and make sure there are no bare spots anywhere....
Do you have a multi-meter? If so measure your batteries after a full charge, and after your 2 min flight.
this sounds like it will be complicated to figure out, but probably a really easy fix problem.
You could also try lubing your main bearings
yeah... centering the swash is done with the servo rods... if you can take a pic I can tell you if yours is good or if you will have to redo it.
Did you by chance break the motors in... probably not the problem... but it would help.
Does the motor seem to spin freely with the main gear? I didn't quite get what you were saying
someone else had a simular problem, but they replaced their 4 in 1 and it fixed it... but you said you already did that...
Check all of the wires and make sure there are no bare spots anywhere....
Do you have a multi-meter? If so measure your batteries after a full charge, and after your 2 min flight.
this sounds like it will be complicated to figure out, but probably a really easy fix problem.
You could also try lubing your main bearings
#1573
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From: Sometown, Northern Utah
hrm, sounds good to me... especially if you put close to how many mAh it is rated at... like my e-flite 800's take about 750mA
#1574
Sounds to me like he is running too much pitch and causing the motor to heat up.
This will also drain the batteries very fast.
Check your pitch setup. I am sure you will find your problem there.
Karl
This will also drain the batteries very fast.
Check your pitch setup. I am sure you will find your problem there.
Karl
#1575
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
ya, check that you have 0 degree pitch at low stick and go from there, you might want to lower the pitch to about -1~2 degrees at low stick low trim in normal mode.


