G62 without carb insulator?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Hudson, FL
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
G62 without carb insulator?
Has anybody tried running the G62 without the carb insulator block installed? I need to remove it to make the engine fit in the cowl. I'm trying not to spend the money on a toni clark 90* intake bend if I don't have to. Thanks,
Aaron
Aaron
#2
RE: G62 without carb insulator?
The insulator block is there to INSULATE the carb from cylinder heat. You need it.
To prove my point,
I have a converted 75cc engine that came out of a Stihl demo saw. The person who converted it did a very nice job, except for one little glitch. He made the carb insulator block a little too thin in one spot - but thats what the person who sent the motor to the engine to him wanted done. It was supposed to go in a very narrow cowl, so space was limited. The base of the carb was touching the cylinder in a circular ring about 1/8" wide. That allowed heat transfer from the cylinder to the carb. The motor ran fine for 5 minutes. Then it would vapor lock and dead stick. Would not restart. You could choke the daylights out of it and flood the cylinder with cold fuel to solve the vapor lock problem in the carb. But then the engine was flooded. I'd have to pull the spark plug out and dry it off to get the engine started.
I made a spacer block 1/4" thick, with G10 epoxy board, and installed it between the carb and the existing insulator block. No more vapor lock. Engine runs fine now.
To prove my point,
I have a converted 75cc engine that came out of a Stihl demo saw. The person who converted it did a very nice job, except for one little glitch. He made the carb insulator block a little too thin in one spot - but thats what the person who sent the motor to the engine to him wanted done. It was supposed to go in a very narrow cowl, so space was limited. The base of the carb was touching the cylinder in a circular ring about 1/8" wide. That allowed heat transfer from the cylinder to the carb. The motor ran fine for 5 minutes. Then it would vapor lock and dead stick. Would not restart. You could choke the daylights out of it and flood the cylinder with cold fuel to solve the vapor lock problem in the carb. But then the engine was flooded. I'd have to pull the spark plug out and dry it off to get the engine started.
I made a spacer block 1/4" thick, with G10 epoxy board, and installed it between the carb and the existing insulator block. No more vapor lock. Engine runs fine now.
#4
RE: G62 without carb insulator?
Heat + carburation = running problems + less power
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...tm.htm#8828206
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...tm.htm#8828206
#5
RE: G62 without carb insulator?
I made my own from 3 layers of 1/8 thick G10 epoxy board, epoxied together, since I did not have thicker material. My need was to rotate the carb for direct hookup to the servo, so I used a groove in the middle board to channel the pulse hole from the carb hole location to the cylinder hole location. Next I may try using 3 layers of 1/16 thick material to see if that is enough isolation for the carb from engine heat. Good luck.
Toni Clark has some very good tiops for engines.
Sincerely, Richard
Toni Clark has some very good tiops for engines.
Sincerely, Richard