Here are the pics, I will let the dle experts make the call!

It broke the crank pin, a few others have done the same thing, it's the only failure I've seen in the DLE20. Send it in, it'll get replaced, no big deal.

+1 typical of fatigue due to over reving or embrittled steel making up the part. Should be a straight warranty replacement.

+1 for HS needle<div>
</div><div>Doesn't cost a thing to try that.  But from the factory, mine sounded just like yours cause HS was a little lean.  The HS needle was the ticket.  YMMV</div>

I've had ignition problems on a DLE 55 when using a supposedly "optic" cut-off switch. Problem cleared when I went to a Smart-Fly optical cut-off. Ken

If you were using the "42% Optical Kill Switch", that is the exact problem I had as well and I've heard this from quite a few others on this switch too. At first it was so subtle I coudln't tell if was a fuel or ignition issue. As soon as I removed the switch, problem solved. The Smart-Fly kill switches have worked great for me as well and are all I use now.

ive had a good one and a bad one

Is it true that ignition modules with 4# written on the label are known to have issues? I recently purchased one of these motors for my abused Funtana X100 and I am going through the break-in process. So far no issues, but the CDI has the #4 printed.[X(] Maybe master Jody can chime in with a comment?