<span style="font-size: medium; "><span style="font-family: 'Comic Sans MS'; ">I was just using the pic as a visual aid but here ya go......</span></span>

<a href="http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/fuel_systems/fuel_filters/"><span style="font-size: medium; "><span style="font-family: 'Comic Sans MS'; ">http://www.moellermarine.com/afterma.../fuel_filters/
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scroll to the bottom of the page.</span></span>
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Just go to this site and buy one of these awesome fuel tanks.

http://www.fourtituderc.com/

mbinkley - seriously do you have any nugget of a clue what your talking about?? The only way you would not need a vent line on a gas engine or a pressure line on a nitro would be if you were using a balloon to hold the fuel. When you take fuel out of a semi rigid structure such as a fuel tank it has to be replaced with something like say AIR from the atmosphere or exhaust gas on a nitro motor.

I personally use two and three line systems, just depends on the plane. I use three lines on all my gas engines because I use the Walbro felt clunk rather than adding a filter in line introducing 2 more points of possible air leaks. As for tying the clunks together, never have and have never had them get tangled. As for two lines, I have a couple of trainers where the line attaching to the carb is real handy so no need for a T, just pop the line of the carb and refuel through it. On others I use a T with a set of forceps to pinch the line on the carb side of the T (I place 1 or 2 layers of shink tubing over the line where I pinch it to prevent the forceps from damaging the line) and a short piece of line to a good quality fuel dot. I have tried a couple types of easy-fueler devices and had inflight failures on both causing dead stick landings. However with that being said there are many members of my club that have been using various forms of them for many years and never had a hiccup.

So like someone said earlier, 2 lines, 2 lines with a T, 3 lines, easy fueler valve - all a matter of opinion. Spend a few extra minutes setting your system up, use the right type and size of tubing, make sure that all the joints are done properly, check the system for leaks (and if your using one of the big-name tanks like Dubro or Sullivan or most of the supplied ARF varieties check and triple check where the stopper goes into the tank to make sure its sealed and that the tank hasn't split on the molding seam), check everything again and go fly.

I was having a beer when I read this and almost choked No wonder some folks have so much trouble getting their engines to run right.

Karol

The 3 line system is another form of redundancy just like dual batteries, switches, receivers and the like. Many years ago I used the Sullivan fuelers that were installed between the tank and the carb which worked great until they leaked, they came out with a new version that was to fix the problemandlasted less time than the original. I had one fail right out of the pack, I gave up and went with three line system.

A carbon copy of my experiences with the two line system.

Karol

I can see this joker at the flying field already - "My plane starts just fine but as soon as I throttle it up it revs then dies. I keep changing the needles but it keeps doing the same thing every time. One time I heard a sucking sound from the carb so it must be a bad carb or the motor is junk!"

For everyone giving the negatives of why the "T" style 2 line system is bad here are some positives:

a) Very simple to plumb and get into the stopper.
b) No chance of the engine clunk getting tangled with the fueler clunk.
c)When defueling you can watch the fuel line for bubbles to check the integrity of the supply side of the fuel system.


Rick

Hey some folks have much trouble getting their engines tostart &amp;run right in the first place. Guys that check everything out real good with the fuel systems....2 or 3 lines...it does not matter, will havebetter running and starting engines. Looks like we need Tired Old Man back to shed more on this!!!!! Capt,n

Catflyer

You win the prize! I'm a joker! I was just having some fun with this tread and the little funny faces I put at the end of my reply did show up.
I hope you all got a good chuckle with that leaky tee!

Ok now back to the issues at hand. I use a 2 line system and have for 10 plus years on gas two strock engines.

On my gas jug I use a large paper filter like the one in an earlier post and in the plane tanks I use a felt clunk filter

Also every year all the fuil lines get changed in all my aircraft and sreen in the carbs checked. I dont Chang the fuil lines in my Baja race buggy or check the carb sreen since it does not fly to high off the ground and this Baja get used in the harset dusty and muddy conditions and it works like a champ.

Just keep you fuil supply clean and go out an have fun!

Well you got me and a couple of others but in all honesty I would not be surprised to find someone who thinks that they don't need a vent line into the tank. I have seen stranger things at our club.....

Yes for sure! Some of the things a saw at my old feild made very scard it be there.
There are some guys you just cant help. Ther like my buddys wife allways rite it could not have been some thing they did wrong that caused that issue.

In this thread there is a lot of confusion about the three line system FOR GAS ENGINES. It is not at all like useing two lines tied together like in glow engines where it is used to keep the fuel head constant. This is not needed in gas engines.
In Gas engines, the three line system means: one fill line, one vent, one line to the carb which line also has the felt clunk. Sorry guys, no other system is as reliable.
Do not use zip ties, but use a 1/4" piece of fuel line over the line ends as doubler. Zip ties do not apply pressure all around and tend to leak sooner or later. Been there way too often.
Using the three line system is the safest option you can use. The fuel line to the carb is least prone to contamination and air leaks. That is the only thing that counts.
Some got away with t-lines in the carb suction line. I know they just were lucky so far. Murphy is watching them, and will strike when ready!

PS
Murphie's law:
Anything can go wrong. If it does go wrong it will do so at a time least convenient, or causing maximum damage.

PS
Murphie's law:
Anything can go wrong. If it does go wrong it will do so at a time least convenient, or causing maximum damage.
Yup...even with the 3 line system! Capt,n

" Do not use zip ties, but use a 1/4" piece of fuel line over the line ends as doubler. "

............ But wont the Tygon soften and loosen ?

ed

Install the thing and FLY!
http://www.aero-works.net/store/detail.aspx?ID=488

Those started out over here;
http://www.aerographix.biz/fuel_tanks.htm

Yep, cool tanks & the clunk is easily seen!

For their shorter 8 ounce tanks (ONLY), a few mods are needed (their clunk is too light & std tygon isn't flexible enough in such a short tank).

The ceramic clunk/filter I prefer is a Poulan 530095646, and weighs 0.4 ounces.

More flexible fuel line;
Oregon [part #07-266] .094" I.D. x .203" O.D. [wall thickness=.050"]

{Std Tygon 1/8" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. [wall thickness=.060] }

ONLY required in their shorter 8 ounce tanks.

I always use zip-ties and never ever had any leaks!

The idea is to take a piece of line about a 1/4" long and put over the outside of the line where it connects. That line be it Tygon, Silicone or any other material will never come in contact with the fuel so it will not soften and get loose like the line itself. I have a pair of forceps that work perfect for stretching the piece of line over the line itself then just take the doubled up line end and push it on the fitting. The giant scale racers have been using this trick for years and pulling some huge g forces without loosing a line. I have never had one leak since going this route. I have tried mechanics wire and had it actually cut the line.

Actually (for those that believe that), it's 4 points; 3 at the 'T', plus 1 for the plug.

Actually, you can do that at your gas jug itself and be just as good as a 3 line but use a 2 line w/'T'.
Put a good quality ceramic clunk in your gas jug and the gas tank, and the 2 line can't get unfiltered gas.

The ceramic clunk/filter I prefer is a Poulan 530095646.

Looks nice A1 Where did you get the ceramic clunk/filter?

Most small engine repair shops that work on chainsaws, trimmers, edgers, etc., have -or- can get them for you.

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-size: 9pt">Ihave heard it said on a couple occasions that ceramic filters are inferior to their felt counterpart. Can anyone provide an explanation as to why this would be so? Has anyone carried out tests on both and have hard evidence as to which is actually better to use for our purposes?

Thanks

DaleD</span></div>

Don't know of any reputable tests on both, one way or the other.
So far, personal opinions only. Some dislike the felt style.

Both are used interchangeably in many, many yard equipment, chainsaws, edgers, trimmers, etc., etc., etc.
Look over such equipment at your local dealer, and you'll find a mix of them in use. Depends on the mfg.

Both will such your tank nearly dry!

" I have heard it said on a couple occasions that ceramic filters are inferior to their felt counterpart. " - DaleD

And I have heard it said, that felt filter fibers break off and clog up the screen in the Carb. Has anyone of you had to remove felt filter fibers from the Carb screen ? You need to be real careful when you come here, a lot of the (expert) opinions expressed here, just amount to a bunch of fabricated "Wives Tales". I have used felt filter clunks for years, and check all my 6 screens yearly, and guess what; no felt fibers. [>:]

ed

If you are going to use a felt filter...make sure it is a good quality one like made by Walbro. I know a chainsaw dealer that has found little fibers in carbs. He does a lot of work on saws. Capt,n