I have a great planes Edge 540 w/ OS GT 33. I am having problems running the throttle fuel line, and both the throttle and choke servo arms. I kept the cowling off so you guys can see my reference pics. This is my first gas setup and any tips will be terrific. I can also be contacted atm(973) 229-5252

YOur reference pix are not showing,, One piece of advice I will give,, I try to run the poly tubing sleeve style cable for my throttle setups,,  it helps with bends, and curves, I have never had a problem with it once its installed it never causes any problems for me,, hope this helps a little.

Don't use a servo for the choke. Run a rod out the bottom of the cowl or out the front. To get a better run at the carb. use a flexible Goldenrod type pushrod. Put a longer arm on the choke and carb. I make mine out of aluminum scrap.

Why are you saying don't use a servo for the choke?

Personally I like the simplicity, weight(and money) saving, and removal of a failure point when using the lowly hand activated pushrod. He is also running a 30cc sized airframe which could be space limited in the fuse. Other people like gadgets, I don't. I have seen people flying 40% planes who can't remember which way the switch goes to put the choke on. Then they try to start he motor for 20min. and wonder why it won't run. It happened last Sunday to a 43%er. However, I would cast a vote for a transmitter activated ignition sw. of some type. Just my way of doing things. On my 50cc Ultimate I ran a small pushrod out the front of the cowl hole right by the spinner backplate. Can't see it til you look, but it is easily accessible when starting and no twiddling with the trans.

I was just wondering. I do have mine on a servo. All of my switches operate the same way. Towards me is off or low rate, away from me is on or high rate. Same position holds true for the flaps and gear towards me off. I guess both ways is just a matter of choice. I use my choke to shut down after it is on the ground, hopefully not a one point landing.

I use my throttle trim to shut down the engine. One butterfly is as good as the next for shutting down the engine. The JR 9303 transmitter has a slider on the throttle trim instead of a digital trim. My old 72 Mhz Hitec Flash 5X has a kill button that takes all the trim out of the throttle to kill the engine and goes back to the normal setting when you let it go.

My thoughts are keep it simple. I like to keep my throttle servo back as far from the ignition system as possible(this usually means plastic rod set up,like golden Rod) never worried about how close on Glow engine....but gas ignition needs a little more caution. Most of the time the ignition shielding will do its job but if it fails ........having a servo real close to said failer can be a recipe for disaster. The interference can jump to the servo wire run down to the receiver. NOT GOOD

Using a servo for the choke is not a bad thing to kill engine.....I would just keep it far away from the ignition system....just to be safe. To be honest killing engine with choke might be as good as the IBEC I use....it allows electronic shutdown of ignition...but so does choke...the IBEC does eliminate the ignition battery(weight savings) of course to compensate for the extra juice I was taking out of the receiver batts to run the ignition.....one could add larger Batts on the receiver......so their goes the weight savings.

I guess what I'm trying to say is both ways have their merits......I would just keep the choke servo far away from the ignition system. I try to keep everything that has a path back to the reviewer away from the ignition system. Kept me out of trouble so far!!!!!!

It's okay to use a metal braided, flexible cable in nylon housing IF you use a nylon connector fastening it to the throttle arm isn't it?

+1
Very smooth, and unlike Nyrods, where temperature changes can upset your trim, with the steel cable you have no "shrinkage" problem, as they used to say on Seinfeld
Pete

Maybe a few pictures will help clarify the explanations being given. The first 2 pictures show a side mounted engine with a manually actuated choke and a throttle arm made from a piece of aluminum. Originally, the choke push rod was routed through that extra hole in the fire wall to a servo but I decided that I had no need for an extra servo.

Pictures 3 and 4 show a different engine mounted inverted in the same airplane. The choke push rod is actuated with the fingers and does not protrude outside the cowl opening.


The last picture shows the braided metal throttle cable that I prefer because it can be routed around curves and still operate smoothly.

It also helps to isolate the radio equipment from any errant RF emisions.