So, I'm having problems with a DLE 20. This starts the third season with the engine and the first two were flawless. It was my best running, most reliable engine until now. It starts fine, and transitions well to full throttle, and runs great at full throttle, but after maybe 30 seconds of idle, it quits. Now, I don't know a whole lot about tuning gas, as a guy at the club helped me originally helped me tune it, and it was always fine from there, and I'd bet it's a tuning issue. I just don't understand why. I didn't touch anything over the winter. I tried replacing all of the fuel and vent lines, and even installed a new tank with no luck. I did, try leaning the low needle a bit which seemed to help a bit, but it still does it. Can anyone walk me through getting this thing running like it should again? I'd be forever thankful. Steve.

I would suggest that the low needle needs to be richened up. Do this in very small increments until the stalling goes away. Leaning out the low needle will sometimes cause the engine to starve for fuel and cause it to stall. I have a DLE 20cc which is in its 3 year and the only thing I have done is checked to make sure the small screen inside the carb is clean. It was so I put the carb back together, fueled up and it started and ran great on the first flight on this season.

I'll try that. It almost seemed that after a short( 15 seconds or so) idle that it was loading up, that's why I tried leaning it. I'll try going the other way and see what happens. I'll also try cleaning the screen if that doesn't help. Thanks for the info, hopefully it will help. Steve.

So this is probably a pretty dumb question, but are gasses similar to glow in a sense that the low speed needle is for idle and transition to full throttle? And the high speed is only for full throttle? Figures, I flew gas for two years, and still don't know how to tune them.

set both needles to 1-3/4 turns out this will give you a rich condition,ruff running.turn the low in till the engine wants to hesitate when opening the throttle.then open it till it will just transition.
then go to WOT and turn in the high for peak rpm's.then you may have to go back and re-set low.but this setting should be flyable then fine tune it after flying.

Thanks, I'll try that first seeing that that should give me factory settings, or close to it. Steve.

So if I remove the plate to get at the screen, will I need to replace the gaskit? Or do they usually come off clean without tearing?

yes you can normally take them off without tearing anything. That metal screen is tricky, it fills up with clear crap and may look fine but it can be completely blocked.
Some guys use carb cleaner and a stiff brush then blow with compressed air, or you can just buy a new one.
I think John is right this is probably your problem.

Well, I'm going to clean it out now, and see what happens.

Ok, so I'm sure that probably is the problem. There's visible debris all over it. Should make a big difference.

Well boys, I think we've got a winner. I cleaned the filthy screen and she runs like a clock now. I can't believe a five minute job kept it grounded the last two times I tried to fly it. Oh well, I'm sure it could have used all new plumbing anyway. I can't remember if I replaced it last year or not. Thanks for the help guys, if the wind dies down tomorrow, I'll fly it and see. Steve.

always use the same oil and a felt clunk.

Why always the same oil? I haven't heard that.

Changing oils can cause a little gelling. It will clog your screen. I always use sthil ultra.

Unless the tank is very easy to R&R, I can't see filtering @ the clunk.

Always filter @ the easiest place to service.

I guess I do overkill. I filter coming out of the fuel jug, filter going into the tank in the plane, and filter between the tank and carb. Also have a filter clunk in the tank.

Now think which one will be the hardest to service. Just saying.

Of the 5 the fuel jug filter would be the easiet to service. The filter in the fuel line inside the cowl would be little harder to acess, but it's not that bad if you plan for it.

I'm sure your fuel related problems are few & far between, but you're right, it's overkill.

Ya know, I overkill it too, and I still had all that junk on the screen. I have three filters from the can to the carb. Just not one in the fuel tank because as SrTelemaster said, I don't want to have to pull the tank to clean it. The inline filter just before the carb is accessible without removing the cowl.

All filters are not created equal. The mesh-screen cylindrical types are almost completely worthless for our purposes. My best results have been using the Walbro felt clunks in the tank and in the fuel jug pickup tube. Never had a carb screen accumulate any crap. Screen filters permit smaller crap to get through, and those *WILL* stop at the carb screen, as it is the very finest mesh you can imagine. Which is why the Walbro rebuild instructions recommend replacement and not cleaning. Although cleaning can sometimes work.

If it runs good for 2 years then suddenly acts up it isn't the tuning. Something has changed, sparkplug, fuel crud in carb from storage or even a dirty filter screen.

it was the carb screen I ordered a couple more. runs good now though after cleaning.

I'm glad that was it; your problem was a good reminder about "checking easy stuff", which I know I sometimes forget about doing.
I'm also a triple-filter user (jug, tank clunk, carb line) but periodically stuff magically appears on that screen. It defies any logic or explanation, but when you're sitting there looking at the "stuff", it's pretty tough to deny.

Where did you buy the screens and do you have a part number?

Thanks in advance.

Try here once you get the manufacturer and part number. Dan.
http://www.outdoordistributors.com/

not sure.I called my LHS and he said they'll be here in a couple days. ill let you know on the part number when I get them.