BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I'm wondering the same thing.
I bought a Collector ring from Horizon for my 7-70 and it wasn't nearly that expensive.

G T

i am using 96 octane - 20% oil mix with Mobil synthetic 2T oil
this is the oil i have used in all my petrol motors.
[h=3]East Coast Lubes - Mobil Oil Distributor, Synthetic Oils ...[/h]
FYI on there oils - closest oil match i found here for the MVVS oil spec's

when i go down south and fly i have to lean out the mixture when in the colder climate same as you, but we are averaging around 36c at the moment here.

SrTelemaster150

And when you buy from Keleo, you are buying an American made product that supports a small business. When you buy from Horizon you are most likely buying a product made in a 3rd world sweatshop and supporting some CEO buying another yacht.

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

[QUOTE=Timbers;12181911]I have three telemetry sensors mounted on my FG60R3. I have them mounted right on the big part of the fin by intake chrome pipe where it goes into the jug.

With the canopy off on the ground I get temps around 270F. With the canopy on, and my baffling setup I am getting up to about 305F.

This weekend I am going to attempt to remove the baffle completely and see what temps I get. Theres an individual a couple of posts up that runs without any baffles in a very hot climate and seems to be doing ok.

I have the Tarheel Hal P47 plane, and have not flown it yet. Only ground work so far....

Keep us posted on this. I am having vapor lock trouble with the cowl on here at 5400 ft with winter gas. I wrapped the collector ring with ceramic blanket and it helped ran with cowl on tell the outside temp got up to 50 deg F. then vapor locked

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Aquaskiman, sounds like you and I are having the same experience with the Tarheel Hal and temps. I made cutouts in the fake radial engine that are perfectly in-line with the three cylinders of the FG60R3. On the ground I'm getting temps 50 degrees hotter with the baffled cowl on.

Heres the graphs of my temperature runs. The first graph is with the cowl off and the second is with the cowl on. The graph goes up and down because thats me running full throttle, then going back to idle. So the temp climbs then cools off when I go back to idle...



[QUOTE=aquaskiman;12182340]

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

[QUOTE=Timbers;12182579]Hey Aquaskiman, sounds like you and I are having the same experience with the Tarheel Hal and temps. I made cutouts in the fake radial engine that are perfectly in-line with the three cylinders of the FG60R3. On the ground I'm getting temps 50 degrees hotter with the baffled cowl on.

Heres the graphs of my temperature runs. The first graph is with the cowl off and the second is with the cowl on. The graph goes up and down because thats me running full throttle, then going back to idle. So the temp climbs then cools off when I go back to idle...



I also have mine baffled. I just received my carb conversion kit and will keep posted of results

luckymacy

[QUOTE=aquaskiman;12182629]What did you do to channel the air past the cylinders tightly? Just making cutouts in the faux radial isn't really baffling, just a start.

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

[QUOTE=luckymacy;12182645]I have it cut out and side plates running along the cylinder sides

luckymacy

[QUOTE=aquaskiman;12182647]Post pics. On the real Vans RV8 I built, I didn't get the temps downs and stabilized and consistent on all 4 cylinders until I was really thorough in RTVing close every single source of air leak around the baffles and and getting the best possible rubber skirt seal. A little leak can kill what looks like "should have been" good enough air flow through the cylinders.

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

[QUOTE=luckymacy;12182649] My trouble is not the cylinders getting hot it is the temp in the cowl boiling the fuel in the fuel line and carb. The fuel we have here in the winter boils at 104 deg F

luckymacy

[QUOTE=aquaskiman;12182654]did you wrap your carb and fuel tubing in heat sleeve material?

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_9052vojpdb_p

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

I just got mine this week. and very excited

couldnt we we run a 10% gas to nitro fuel mix for the cooling effect?

johnhi

I just installed the new Walbro carb from Morris Mini Motors, here are some pics of my set up for the choke. Also I have now also installed the three temperature gauges, one for each cylider head.

For the carb initial set up I used the settings described earlier in this thread 2 out on Low and 2 out on High, and the engine fired up nicely and seemed to run much better than with the old Saito carb. I only ran it for a few minutes as I didn't want to annoy the neighbours to much so I'd didn't get a chance to fine tune and check temperatures.

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

Thanks for the pics keep us posted I received my carb kit and will be installing next week

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Why not just use Gasohol from the local station. It's already got 10% alcohol in the gas. I would think you don't want any "nitromethane" in the mix.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks for the pics! It wasn't obvious to me what the red extension was!

Looking forward to having a choke as well as hopefully more reliable & consistent tune!

Cheers

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

Do you have a link for this kit?

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

here you go
http://www.morrisminimotors.com/#!pr...conversion-kit

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

How much in $$$ including shipping from UK? Thanks.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

~ $165 shipped...not cheap. But for me, about the price of a starter & battery, so having a proper choke negates buying and carrying that. The time not chasing a tune every time I fly this plane is the real bonus!

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Good point,keep us posted on the performance.

luckymacy

I finished the break in runs. Priming with the stock carb was actually easy for me. As someone else suggested earlier, simply putting your finger over the over flow end to block it for a few seconds pressurizes the fuel tank and easily forced the fuel up to the carb. I'm using an electric fuel filler so the pressure and consistency is great so only a couple of seconds is all I need at the beginning of the day to see the fuel line fill up quickly all the way to the carb. starts in a flip or two by hand as if it had been run before. No big deal at all.

There may be other reasons to get the carb but I can't justify it on grounds of starting. This engine starts so easily and runs so well at idle it's impressive. I'm using a Xoar 22x10 PJT Hollow Carbon Fiber Propeller and getting about 6000 RPMs still using the break in fuel/oil mixture and I have not adjusted the low end needle yet. The high end is about 1.75 turns out from fully closed. I have yet to even put a screw driver on the low end needle so more tuning to go. I'll fiddle with the low end next because the idle is rich and the transition to mid and high RPMs sucks right now. Maybe by the time I'm done if I'm not happy I could see trying a new carb but for now, it's working well.

luckymacy

Oh yeah, I did notice too that the last bit of range on the high end actually retards the RPMs by a hundred or two hundred. So adjusting the ATV on the throttle to limit full travel fixes that but is 'not good' if it's not going to be a consistent position of the servo to achieve full rpm though I think it is likely to remain a constant.

luckymacy

Leaned high and low today. Max rpm is still only about 6200 but rock solid idle at 1250. Transition isn't clean and crisp but voted good enough to fly.

Also, make sure throttle is wide open when you go to prime the carb by blocking off the overflow tube.

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

Same with me, I use a fuel bulb and open the carb, attach the fuel bulb to the vent line and pressurize for about 3 seconds. Starts on the first flip or two, so no choke needed.

I'm getting 6900RPM out of a 22x10 APC prop. Am I over-reving the engine? Maybe this Xoar prop is heavier, fatter airfoil, so not as many RPMS?

Anyone flying the plane with a 22x10 APC?