First gas engine question
#102
If he does not want to deal with the gas smell, get a good powerful electric motor and be done with it.
#103
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People who get the most help are ones who have done at least some work to help themselves before coming to this or any similar forum.
Last edited by Truckracer; 06-02-2015 at 10:11 AM. Reason: can't type
#104
My Feedback: (2)
Regarding widely varied opinions, I'd like to believe a newbie with a question is collecting enough data and opinions to form his own answer.
Regarding research, although I really enjoy being a part of conversations like we've been having over the last 5 pages or so, nobody has mentioned, not one of us, the fact 90% plus of this material has already bee covered in detail here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...formation.html
Regarding research, although I really enjoy being a part of conversations like we've been having over the last 5 pages or so, nobody has mentioned, not one of us, the fact 90% plus of this material has already bee covered in detail here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...formation.html
#105
My wife is very sensitive to fumes of any kind, but she's never noticed or complained about the smell of gasoline from my models, and that was before I switched to AV gas.
Pete
#106
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Oh regarding the wife, its OK for her to use nail polish remover and other stinky stuff but heaven forbid any odors coming from the shop ...... and I told her before we got married that everything I did in that shop would either be noisy, have an odor or create dust. I guess she forgot!
#107
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Likewise, my wife can detect me opening a can of lacquer thinner or something similar (3) stories away from my shop but has never once complained about the smell of gasoline in the house. Mostly because there is virtually no odor from the airplanes. Other than draining tanks, I take no special precautions to reduce the odor.
Oh regarding the wife, its OK for her to use nail polish remover and other stinky stuff but heaven forbid any odors coming from the shop ...... and I told her before we got married that everything I did in that shop would either be noisy, have an odor or create dust. I guess she forgot!
Oh regarding the wife, its OK for her to use nail polish remover and other stinky stuff but heaven forbid any odors coming from the shop ...... and I told her before we got married that everything I did in that shop would either be noisy, have an odor or create dust. I guess she forgot!
#109
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Regarding widely varied opinions, I'd like to believe a newbie with a question is collecting enough data and opinions to form his own answer.
Regarding research, although I really enjoy being a part of conversations like we've been having over the last 5 pages or so, nobody has mentioned, not one of us, the fact 90% plus of this material has already bee covered in detail here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...formation.html
Regarding research, although I really enjoy being a part of conversations like we've been having over the last 5 pages or so, nobody has mentioned, not one of us, the fact 90% plus of this material has already bee covered in detail here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...formation.html
#110
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Sorry to offend, but I'm with this opinion. I've let all my magazine subscriptions expire without re-newing because I'm sick and tired of all the coverage being about @@@ dam electrics and foamies.
And if I wasn't so lazy, I would write Clarence Lee about his remarks about Coleman Fuel. Even an outfit like Dave's Motors selling Chinese knockoffs of Zenoahs recommends 91 octane with his high performance kits. Again, why take the chance on a fuel that is just not intended for any kind of internal combustion engine??
AV8TOR
And if I wasn't so lazy, I would write Clarence Lee about his remarks about Coleman Fuel. Even an outfit like Dave's Motors selling Chinese knockoffs of Zenoahs recommends 91 octane with his high performance kits. Again, why take the chance on a fuel that is just not intended for any kind of internal combustion engine??
AV8TOR
#111
Senior Member
#112
Senior Member
Regarding research, although I really enjoy being a part of conversations like we've been having over the last 5 pages or so, nobody has mentioned, not one of us, the fact 90% plus of this material has already bee covered in detail here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...formation.html
#113
My Feedback: (19)
Sorry to offend, but I'm with this opinion. I've let all my magazine subscriptions expire without re-newing because I'm sick and tired of all the coverage being about @@@ dam electrics and foamies.
And if I wasn't so lazy, I would write Clarence Lee about his remarks about Coleman Fuel. Even an outfit like Dave's Motors selling Chinese knockoffs of Zenoahs recommends 91 octane with his high performance kits. Again, why take the chance on a fuel that is just not intended for any kind of internal combustion engine??
AV8TOR
And if I wasn't so lazy, I would write Clarence Lee about his remarks about Coleman Fuel. Even an outfit like Dave's Motors selling Chinese knockoffs of Zenoahs recommends 91 octane with his high performance kits. Again, why take the chance on a fuel that is just not intended for any kind of internal combustion engine??
AV8TOR
#114
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Regarding widely varied opinions, I'd like to believe a newbie with a question is collecting enough data and opinions to form his own answer.
Regarding research, although I really enjoy being a part of conversations like we've been having over the last 5 pages or so, nobody has mentioned, not one of us, the fact 90% plus of this material has already bee covered in detail here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...formation.html
Regarding research, although I really enjoy being a part of conversations like we've been having over the last 5 pages or so, nobody has mentioned, not one of us, the fact 90% plus of this material has already bee covered in detail here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...formation.html
Lamar
#115
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I learned a lot from Clarence's articles years ago but these days, I seem to differ with some of his opinions when it comes to gas engines. Case in point, he has repeatedly suggested removing the screen in Walbro carburetors which I highly disagree with. He suggests it gets plugged too easily and I suggest if it is getting plugged, the fuel going to the carb is contaminated which will ruin a carb in short order if that "last line of defense" screen is omitted. I have written letters but no response. He continues to make that suggestion from time to time and my fur gets ruffled whenever I read the suggestion. I check my screens once a year and in most cases find nothing in them. I couldn't imagine removing them.
Note that he also advises you to put a fuel filter in the line or in the tank.
And filter the fuel as you fill the tank.
Back before glow plugs we all used gas. The common advise was not to use leaded gas. The engine did not need high octane.In those days the engines wer very small. Less than .6 cu in. The question is at what engine size does it become important to run High test gas? As I said I ran a G45 for many years on coleman fuel without problems. I also ran my ZDZ80 on the fuel. But I crashed rather quickly and did not get much time on it. It did not show any signs of preignition though.
#116
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I repeat, Mr Lee usually recommends removing the screen when it gets plugged with crud. Why on earth would you want to remove this valuable item even if you add back an inline filter. If anything happens to the filter, you're right back where you started only this time, your carb is plugged where the screen could have protected it. Most lawn equipment / chainsaws that use Walbro carb have inline filters yet they still retain that valuable screen. And ..... that's all I want to say about that and frankly, I'm sorry I ever brought up the subject.
#117
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I have to agree with truckracer regarding the screen. It is the last line of defense. Looking at it in another way, why would Walbro or the clones put a screen there if it wasn't needed or at least a smart idea. And if the screen is found to be clogged, it is better to trap the debris there rather than inside the tiny passages that aren't so easy to get to. As for my engines, the screen stays put.
By the way, I utilize a filter in the gas can along with a Walbro type filter/clunk in the fuel tank in the plane. I've never encountered a clogged up carb yet. It works for me.
Indiomike
By the way, I utilize a filter in the gas can along with a Walbro type filter/clunk in the fuel tank in the plane. I've never encountered a clogged up carb yet. It works for me.
Indiomike
#118
Senior Member
When 2.4 first came out a common statement even by hobby shop owners was if you have interference issues from ignition or unknown sources just put a 2.4 system in it and it goes away. It doesn’t go away the 2.4 system just deals with it better. Ignoring what used to be common sense practices when doing an installation seems to be more prevalent. New flyers never had to deal with the older systems and its idiosyncrasies. Is there a point where a 2.4 system will not be able to cope? When might it happen? In the air where signal strength may be diminished due to range or other factors. I wonder if some of the so called lockouts might be attributed to something like this.
I still like to keep my radio gear and ignition gear as far apart as possible. My first 2.4 set ups I used 72 to get it running without any glitches then swapped receivers for the 2.4 (same radios). Now I too have gotten lazy and just slap in the 2.4 and set it up.
After all these years it’s to bad someone hasn’t made a simple tester that would scan for gross noise at the known frequencies so it could be limited/controlled. After all they had a hand held inexpensive scanner to check if anyone was using one of the 72 meg frequencies.
Dennis
I still like to keep my radio gear and ignition gear as far apart as possible. My first 2.4 set ups I used 72 to get it running without any glitches then swapped receivers for the 2.4 (same radios). Now I too have gotten lazy and just slap in the 2.4 and set it up.
After all these years it’s to bad someone hasn’t made a simple tester that would scan for gross noise at the known frequencies so it could be limited/controlled. After all they had a hand held inexpensive scanner to check if anyone was using one of the 72 meg frequencies.
Dennis
BCCHI Tiered old CH guy
#119
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I have a good chainsaw type of filter/clunk in my fuel supply. As far as the inner screen is concerned, it's the last line of defense and yes a replacement screen comes in a Walbro kit. If you have a good filter system the screen rarely clogs and unless you really abuse your engines they can be easy to clean up with carb cleaner spray and an air hose. I think the filter type clunk is essential, take re-filling a chainsaw, it's impossible to keep some sawdust out of most tanks, w/o a good filter a person would spend a lot of time working on the saw. Our model engines are almost never subjected to as much exposure to contamination as commercial saws.
I think sometimes we read a lot more into this subject than necessary and with a little common sense most problems are easy to avoid. If you can't work on a Walbro almost all small engine shops can and there are a number of internet posts giving instruction.
I think sometimes we read a lot more into this subject than necessary and with a little common sense most problems are easy to avoid. If you can't work on a Walbro almost all small engine shops can and there are a number of internet posts giving instruction.
#120
My Feedback: (6)
I learned a lot from Clarence's articles years ago but these days, I seem to differ with some of his opinions when it comes to gas engines. Case in point, he has repeatedly suggested removing the screen in Walbro carburetors which I highly disagree with. He suggests it gets plugged too easily and I suggest if it is getting plugged, the fuel going to the carb is contaminated which will ruin a carb in short order if that "last line of defense" screen is omitted. I have written letters but no response. He continues to make that suggestion from time to time and my fur gets ruffled whenever I read the suggestion. I check my screens once a year and in most cases find nothing in them. I couldn't imagine removing them.
AV8TOR
#121
My Feedback: (19)
I'm sure there are exceptions but some of the shops I've been exposed to are good at spray cleaning a carb, blowing it out and replacing the diaphragms but they're lost from that point on. Remove a Welch plug and rod out the drilled passages .... never! Replace a capillary screen or check valve ..... what's that? They just replace the carb with a new one and move on to the next piece of equipment and frankly that's probably the best and most economical repair when call backs are concerned. It might be different if we were in the middle of logging country but I've experienced the same thing in northern Minnesota when I've been to shops there.
#122
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BECCHI I would like to borrow your ignition that bothers a 2.4 system for testing. I have tried everything I can with the RCexL system and cannot get it to do soo.
I have held the sparking plug removed and held right next to the antenna with no affect while the engine is being turned over with a starter.
It can be made to bother the servo wires but not the RF loop.
I will return it with the test results.
I have held the sparking plug removed and held right next to the antenna with no affect while the engine is being turned over with a starter.
It can be made to bother the servo wires but not the RF loop.
I will return it with the test results.
Last edited by dirtybird; 06-03-2015 at 08:17 AM.
#123
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I don't dispute in any way that Mr. Lee knows more about RC engines than I do but that is not the point of my post. Clearly, not everyone knows everything about every subject and in this case I believe Mr. Lee is incorrect in his thinking. Regardless of whether inline fuel filters are used on gassers or not, there is just no logical reason I can make to myself why one would want to nor need to remove the internal screen. It is the absolute last defense the carb has against fuel contamination that could still happen with an inline filter. When the tiny drilled passages of a Walbro carb get crud in them it can be almost impossible to remove the crud without complete disassembly of the carb. A task that most users are not capable of so the carb becomes a throw away item.
I repeat, Mr Lee usually recommends removing the screen when it gets plugged with crud. Why on earth would you want to remove this valuable item even if you add back an inline filter. If anything happens to the filter, you're right back where you started only this time, your carb is plugged where the screen could have protected it. Most lawn equipment / chainsaws that use Walbro carb have inline filters yet they still retain that valuable screen. And ..... that's all I want to say about that and frankly, I'm sorry I ever brought up the subject.
I repeat, Mr Lee usually recommends removing the screen when it gets plugged with crud. Why on earth would you want to remove this valuable item even if you add back an inline filter. If anything happens to the filter, you're right back where you started only this time, your carb is plugged where the screen could have protected it. Most lawn equipment / chainsaws that use Walbro carb have inline filters yet they still retain that valuable screen. And ..... that's all I want to say about that and frankly, I'm sorry I ever brought up the subject.