BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
01-14-2004 | 04:06 PM
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From: concord, NC
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Hammbone, I went flying today with my "piped" BME110, spinning a Mejzlik 28-12 on my 40% FC330sx. It was turning in excess of 7000 rpm, and I just bolted the prop on yesterday after doing a little work to the plane. 4 flights. . ZERO slippage, and I didn't use any anti-rotation mechanisms except to put holes in the spinner backing plate, then tighten the nut on the front of the prop VERY tightly.
I'm sure you will have similar success if you just pay attention to making sure that the spinner backplate is not spinning on the hub (holes for the anti-rotation pins) and properly tighten the prop nut.
Best of luck ! ! !
I'm sure you will have similar success if you just pay attention to making sure that the spinner backplate is not spinning on the hub (holes for the anti-rotation pins) and properly tighten the prop nut.
Best of luck ! ! !
01-14-2004 | 10:08 PM
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From: concord, NC
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
I use the Paragon line of spinners. I've cracked several Tru Turns and Revolutions, but so far the Paragon's have shown absolutely no problems. I also use Pete's CF spinners, but because of the slick backing plates I have resorted to countersinking the back of the spinner plate and using #10 fine-thead decking screws into the prop to prevent slippage, and they are very solidly attached once the prop nut is tightened. I've never broken a screw in this arrangement either.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
01-15-2004 | 08:11 AM
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From: Chantilly, VA
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Petes spinners is the one Bill is having problems with, it seems the backplate in addition to being slick is harder than the prop hub and the serrations dont "bite" into the backplate.
Joe
Joe
01-15-2004 | 10:27 AM
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From: Cressona, PA
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
While we're on the subject. The problem that I am having is, I cant get the nut real tight. I hold onto the prop for leverage and when I try to crank it tight everything turns. The spinner backplate doesn't grab the prop hard enought. Can anybody offer me any suggestions?
01-15-2004 | 10:39 AM
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From: Loveland,
CO
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Well, I don't know if that spinner has good knurling on the backplate or not, and you probably don't want to hear this, but it sounds like you might need a different spinner that has a good grip to it. Either that or try drilling the backplate and prop for screws or pins to lock it in place as suggested earlier in this thread.
I'm going to buy a Tru-Turn spinner for mine. They cost a lot, but if it keeps me from having prop slippage, it's worth it.
Jim
I'm going to buy a Tru-Turn spinner for mine. They cost a lot, but if it keeps me from having prop slippage, it's worth it.
Jim
01-15-2004 | 11:19 AM
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From: Cressona, PA
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Well. I will be going to the LHS today to pick up some supplies. I will pick up some material and drill for 2 pins. No biggie. The only concern I have with drilling is that it will be very difficult for me to match the holes in the backplate as I am switching props. We'll give it a whirl.
01-15-2004 | 12:52 PM
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From: GA
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Crash90,
What I did was install the screws through the Petemodel non-knurled backplate, the put the prop on. I tightened the nut some, and the screw heads left impressions in the back of the prop. I then center-punched the impressions, and drilled tight clearance holes in the prop to go over the screw heads.
80 flights so far, no slippage, and my prop has not exploded. I've tried four different props, will no ill effect.
What I did was install the screws through the Petemodel non-knurled backplate, the put the prop on. I tightened the nut some, and the screw heads left impressions in the back of the prop. I then center-punched the impressions, and drilled tight clearance holes in the prop to go over the screw heads.
80 flights so far, no slippage, and my prop has not exploded. I've tried four different props, will no ill effect.
01-15-2004 | 04:47 PM
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From: Point Pleasant,
NJ
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Hey Jim,
Did you check out the BME site ? http://www.bmeengine.com You can download the manual for the 110 page 5 talks about drilling the prop and the back plate. I am putting together a 35% Carden Edge was putting a DA 100 in it, but after reading this thread I checked out the 110 ITS 2 lbs lighter !!!!! with 1 more hp !!!!! I really am interested in the BME. With shaving off 2lbs off the nose I have to. I did speak to someone that knows 2 guys that flew down in tennensee with the 110, he remembers them saying that the engines were running very hot. He is giving them a call and he is going to get back to me with their feed back. I will let you know.
Chris Bailey
P.S. Lost the Diabolitan (elevator CF rod snapped saved spiderman loved that plane)
Can you e-mail me where you found the 110 Please [email protected]
Did you check out the BME site ? http://www.bmeengine.com You can download the manual for the 110 page 5 talks about drilling the prop and the back plate. I am putting together a 35% Carden Edge was putting a DA 100 in it, but after reading this thread I checked out the 110 ITS 2 lbs lighter !!!!! with 1 more hp !!!!! I really am interested in the BME. With shaving off 2lbs off the nose I have to. I did speak to someone that knows 2 guys that flew down in tennensee with the 110, he remembers them saying that the engines were running very hot. He is giving them a call and he is going to get back to me with their feed back. I will let you know.
Chris Bailey
P.S. Lost the Diabolitan (elevator CF rod snapped saved spiderman loved that plane)
Can you e-mail me where you found the 110 Please [email protected]
01-15-2004 | 06:24 PM
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From: Loveland,
CO
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Hey Chris,
One thing I will caution you on with the Carden Edge is that you may need the extra weight of a DA 100 in the nose for balance. Might want to check that out first. It would not be good to get the BME and then have to add a pound or two of lead to the nose (unless you just wanted the BME for future planes also, where you might not need nose weight).
I have heard good reports from guys about how the BME 110 is running.
I sent you an e-mail.
Jim
One thing I will caution you on with the Carden Edge is that you may need the extra weight of a DA 100 in the nose for balance. Might want to check that out first. It would not be good to get the BME and then have to add a pound or two of lead to the nose (unless you just wanted the BME for future planes also, where you might not need nose weight).
I have heard good reports from guys about how the BME 110 is running.
I sent you an e-mail.
Jim
01-15-2004 | 06:36 PM
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From: Indianapolis, IN
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
ORIGINAL: Crash90
The only concern I have with drilling is that it will be very difficult for me to match the holes in the backplate as I am switching props.
The only concern I have with drilling is that it will be very difficult for me to match the holes in the backplate as I am switching props.
This also worked fine for wood props on my 110X, but when I used a Mejlik 28x10, I got slippage. From a piece of 1/8" music wire, I cut a pair of pins approx 1 3/8" long. I then drilled an 1/8" hole in the spinner backplate about 1" from the center of the 7/16th" prop hub hole, and another 1/8" hole also about 1" from the center of the prop hub hole, but 180 degrees on the opposite side of the prop hub hole (so all three holes are in line). The measurements don't have to be exact and exactly on a line, because I use the backplate as a drill jig to exactly match the 1/8th" holes in the spinner backplate with holes in the prop itself. Just place the prop and spinner backplate together (facing properly) and insert a 7/16th" drill bit to center them up. Then dril the first 1/8th" hole all the way through the prop and insert one of the music wire pins to hold alignment. I then drill the second 1/8th hole and they automatically match exactly. Same for any new prop I want to use.
After the holes are drilled, I epoxy the pins in the prop. The reason they are approx 1 3/8th" long is so they will extend all the way through the prop, and also all the way through the spinner backplate holes. I still use the sandpaper for added friction, and even the Mejlik has zero movement with proper tightening, sandpaper, and pins.
01-15-2004 | 06:43 PM
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From: Indianapolis, IN
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
ORIGINAL: PlaneCrazzy
I did speak to someone that knows 2 guys that flew down in tennensee with the 110, he remembers them saying that the engines were running very hot.
I did speak to someone that knows 2 guys that flew down in tennensee with the 110, he remembers them saying that the engines were running very hot.
01-15-2004 | 07:57 PM
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From: Quakertown,
PA
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Guys would this idea work for the prop slippage problem? What if you took the two allen head screws out of the hub and drilled the backplate of the spinner the same as the hub. Then use longer screws and actually bolt the backplate to the hub. The prop could then be drilled to accept the protruding heads of the bolts and act as anti-rotation pins. The only problem may be shearing between the backplate and the hub which may cause the bolts to fail, but if you got the prop nut tight enough....? Just a thought, that I don't think I have seen yet. What do you think?
01-15-2004 | 09:36 PM
#42
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Absolutely -- all these other prop pin tricks are old hat ideas tried by many, on the YS 140 four strokers - these suckers really have a hard power pulse .(and lotsa power)
the pins would rip the props in some cases .
loose prop which allows backfires and blows the prop a country mile is common on the four strokers among newbies - we still see it -
I sold all of mine ---
the pins would rip the props in some cases .
loose prop which allows backfires and blows the prop a country mile is common on the four strokers among newbies - we still see it -
I sold all of mine ---
03-05-2004 | 07:02 PM
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From: Loveland,
CO
RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
ORIGINAL: Tim_Indy
For my 102/105 BMEs I always folded a piece of 320 grit wet or dry sandpaper in half, giving me a piece maybe 2" by 2", rough side out. I cut out a center hole to clear the prop bolt and placed the paper between the spinner backplate and the prop. After tightening it down properly, I had zero problem with slippage. The spinner backplate had a pair of holes to match the allen bolt heads on the engine thrust face effectively pinning them together, and the sandpaper increases the friction available so as to more effectively prevent the prop from slipping on the spinner backplate.
This also worked fine for wood props on my 110X, but when I used a Mejlik 28x10, I got slippage. From a piece of 1/8" music wire, I cut a pair of pins approx 1 3/8" long. I then drilled an 1/8" hole in the spinner backplate about 1" from the center of the 7/16th" prop hub hole, and another 1/8" hole also about 1" from the center of the prop hub hole, but 180 degrees on the opposite side of the prop hub hole (so all three holes are in line). The measurements don't have to be exact and exactly on a line, because I use the backplate as a drill jig to exactly match the 1/8th" holes in the spinner backplate with holes in the prop itself. Just place the prop and spinner backplate together (facing properly) and insert a 7/16th" drill bit to center them up. Then dril the first 1/8th" hole all the way through the prop and insert one of the music wire pins to hold alignment. I then drill the second 1/8th hole and they automatically match exactly. Same for any new prop I want to use.
After the holes are drilled, I epoxy the pins in the prop. The reason they are approx 1 3/8th" long is so they will extend all the way through the prop, and also all the way through the spinner backplate holes. I still use the sandpaper for added friction, and even the Mejlik has zero movement with proper tightening, sandpaper, and pins.
ORIGINAL: Crash90
The only concern I have with drilling is that it will be very difficult for me to match the holes in the backplate as I am switching props.
The only concern I have with drilling is that it will be very difficult for me to match the holes in the backplate as I am switching props.
This also worked fine for wood props on my 110X, but when I used a Mejlik 28x10, I got slippage. From a piece of 1/8" music wire, I cut a pair of pins approx 1 3/8" long. I then drilled an 1/8" hole in the spinner backplate about 1" from the center of the 7/16th" prop hub hole, and another 1/8" hole also about 1" from the center of the prop hub hole, but 180 degrees on the opposite side of the prop hub hole (so all three holes are in line). The measurements don't have to be exact and exactly on a line, because I use the backplate as a drill jig to exactly match the 1/8th" holes in the spinner backplate with holes in the prop itself. Just place the prop and spinner backplate together (facing properly) and insert a 7/16th" drill bit to center them up. Then dril the first 1/8th" hole all the way through the prop and insert one of the music wire pins to hold alignment. I then drill the second 1/8th hole and they automatically match exactly. Same for any new prop I want to use.
After the holes are drilled, I epoxy the pins in the prop. The reason they are approx 1 3/8th" long is so they will extend all the way through the prop, and also all the way through the spinner backplate holes. I still use the sandpaper for added friction, and even the Mejlik has zero movement with proper tightening, sandpaper, and pins.
I'm curious, what kind of spinner are you using in this set-up?
Thanks, Jim
03-05-2004 | 07:11 PM
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From: Loveland,
CO
RE: RE: BME 110X single bolt prop hub???????
Wow!
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm getting ready to set-up and run my first BME 110. Any other tips/suggestions/
Thanks, Jim
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm getting ready to set-up and run my first BME 110. Any other tips/suggestions/
Thanks, Jim
