I switched out my CF prop for a wood prop and can't stop the prop from spinning on the spinner back plate. The prop is a NX and the backplate is a Dave Brown. I have been forced to fly without the spinner cone because my prop is gettin nicked up.

Anybody have any suggestions for a quick fix?

The problem is that the knurling on the DB spinners is not sufficient to hold the spinner. Easy solution: Use a Tru-Turn. Cheaper solution, take 2 layers of coarse sandpaper, and put it back to back between the prop and the spinner backplate. That might help, but to really make it work, you'll have to increase the knurling on the backplate so it can properly grip something.

Jim

I looked at Tim INdy's installation and he bolts the propeller to the spinner then bolt the spinner and propeller to the engine. Never slips!

Any advise on how to increase the knurling?

I know this doesn't answer your question, but that's why I'll never have another engine with a single bolt prop hub. It's just not that hard to get 4 or 6 bolts aligned properly and you never have a problem with those slipping. I fly gas for reliability, a multi-bolt hub eliminates one more problem. The sand paper idea works most the time, I have used it in the past. Good Luck!

I am using the stock setup, menz 27x10, tru turn spinner and nut, no slipping.

you might be able to drill a couple of 3/32" holes in the spinner backplate and press fit in 2 small pieces of music wire sharpened on the protruding end....when you tighten the wood prop, the pins will press into the wood (or you cold drill holes for the pins in the back of the prop using the backplate as a template), provided you drill them close enough to the crank bolt that the thrust washer will hold the pins in and prevent them from being pushed out the back.....make any sense? (of course this will only work on wood and not CF props)

Thanks for the advise guys. I will probably try the sandpaper first.

It's a bit drastic, but if you take a cold chisel, you can sort of align it with the grooves that are already made in the backplate, and deepen them. Don't get carried away or you can deform the backplate, but that should be enough to do a little. Add the sandpaper, and you should be good to go.

Jim

All you have to do is take your rotary tool with a cutting wheel and cut very shallow groves in the backing plate.
Take the prop and outline it on the backing plate with a felt tip, then cut groves from the hole to the edge of the outline. Make your own knurls.

I have performed this on several backing plates, even Tru-Turns. Works well.

That might work with wood since as you tighten it, the wood will conform and push into the grooves. The harder hub on a carbon prop won't do that. It needs a more aggressive raised knurling that will bite into the prop.

Thanks again. Lots of ideas. I think i will try the rotary tool first. I'll post back with the results.

crash90, I use a Dave Brown spinner also, and agree with Icebird that the knurling isn't agressive enough on a Dave Brown spinner. Sandpaper help increase the friction especially with carbon fiber props and worked great with my BME 102, and all right with my BME 105. The 110, though, is an animal, and needs more.

I then tried a pair of 1/8" music wire pins glued into the props that extended 1/4" from the prop so as to engage matching holes drilled into the spinner backplate, and pinning the prop to the backplate cured the problem. To make things a LOT easier, I used the spinner backplate holes as a drill jug and opened up the holes to accept a pair of 10-32 bolts and now I just bolt the prop to the spinner backplate (using nylon insert locknuts). Then, using the stock prop nut, install the prop/backplate assembly to the engine and I'm good to go with ZERO prop movement. The holes are drilled so as to allow the prop to be at approximately the 9 and 3 o'clock position for starting. The prop washer and the crankshaft prop thrust face are about the same diameter, so drilling the holes outside this dimension allows room for the locknut and flatwasher on the backside of the spinner backplate to not interfere with the thrust face.

I've had zero problems since using this method, and for me, it's the permanent solution. You might note in the picture, I still use a bit of sandpaper.

Tim, he said he had changed from a Carbon Fiber to Wood.

Yeah, I got that but with a 110, even with wood it'll be an issue.

(Man, it's too early to be outside taking pictures!)

Tim. I am currently running a NX 27x10 on stock mufflers for break in. I think I will try the rotary tool first as it is quite easy. If that doesn't cure the problem then I will use your method after break in is done and I switch to the 28x10. Thanks again guys.

I have a off topic question for you 110 users can you tell me, how smoth is this engine I'm thinking of getting one. I have seen the old 102 and I would not own one my ZDZ80 single is way smother.

With what little time I have on my 110 I am pleased. Idle is good, transition is smooth and top end ain't bad either. I think a lot of the roughness is in the tuning. Some people have a harder time getting it right. My comp-arf with the 110 is no worse than others with the DA-100 when it comes to the shakes.
Ralph

Hi Guys,

My 110 in the Comp ARF has no excessive vibrations. The only people that are having trouble with too much vibration have the motor mounted on stand-offs. The motor has way too much torque to have it hanging out in the air like that. Mount it solid and you will have no problems.

Tim,

I see you are running the Biela 28/10. How does this prop work for you and what kind of RPM's are you getting? I also talked with Kris about the cans and the only ones that would fit in my Comp ARF are the Pefa L canisters. I broke the engine in with a Mejlick 28/10, and even running it rich the prop made so much noise I couldn't stand it. I have since tried a Mejlick 25/12 3-blade and the Biela 26/10 3-blade. It turns both of them a little over 6,000 and both of them work good for IMAC. They don't work well for 3D, because they won't spool up fast enough. I don't like wooden props because they keep coming loose. Any information you have on propellers would be helpful. I don't want to keep trying these expensive propellers just to try them. Thanks for your help.

Big Bob

I agree that while my engine isn't quite as smooth at idle as the DA 100, vibration is NOT an issue, and my idle, transition, mid-throttle, and high end are excellent.
Bob, I get 6400 to 6500 rpm (depending on how I hold my mouth) with the Biela, and find that it is quieter at ALL throttle settings than either the two blade Mejlik 28-10 or the Air Wild 28-10, and it pulls my 30 pound Wild Hare 330 with authority. The 28-10 Mejlik accelerates slightly harder from a hover, but is also the loudest prop. Very close in thrust are the NX 28-10 and the Biela 28-10.


I've got a new Biela 29-10 on the way that I'm anticipating will turn about 6,000 rpm. I appreciate the rpm info on both the 3 blade props. I'm thinking that at an equal 6,000 rpm load, engine noise is minimized but the Biela 29-10 two blader might be just as quiet (prop noise-wise) while pulling just a bit better than the 3 blade props.

I'll be trying out my new Biela in a couple days.

(I'm LOVING this engine!!!)