What dod you guys do to keep your spinner shell from moving? I'm not sure if it is the spinner or the prop?

When just the prop shaft and a single bolt, I think the propeller is subject to moving, or at least the spinner cone. Is anyone seeing this and what are you doing to keep it from happening?

Jim!

Mine has never moved, but then I use a Tru-Turn spinner, and they have really good knurling. If you use a spinner that the knurling isn't as good, you can take a couple of disks of coarse sandpaper and glue them back to back, and that will solve the problem as well. Make sure you use a good wrench and tighten the bolt well. If you're using a wooden prop, you're going to have to keep checking it as the wood will compress.

HTH
Jim

Thanks for the suggestion. I see that some other people recommend that as well

Jim!

I have looked at Tim's installation and he bolts the propeller to the spinner.
Then he has sandpaper glued to the back of the spinner facing the hub.
He really torques it down and it doesn't move.

Ice & geist have given you good information.
I had that happen the first time I put a spinner on too, then I decided to give it a good tightening and all was solved. Make it tight and have good knurling.

If it's the spinner itself that's moving, try loctite around where the spinner cone meets the backplate before tightening down the spinner retaining bolt.

My 30 hp 289cc twin racing engine uses a Tru Turn 6 1/2 inch spinner...The backplate is bolted to the hub with two 1/4-20 flathead screws..the spinner has two small notches in the bottom, 180 degrees apart, where it fits over two 4-40 setscrews in the groove...Can't slip, ever....
We use a Toyota fork lift starter motor with a 4 inch cone..Turns the engine 3000 rpm...Starts ANYTHING with just a touch.....

Ralph, you give Tim Allen a bad name.... MORE POWER!

I have the same problem on my BME 110. The spinner back plate is screwed to the crankshaft (prop flange) with 4x40s and the prop drilled to fit over the screw heads so niether the backplate or prop can twist. But after a couple flights my spinner will rotate and rub on the prop. Guess I need locktite between the spinner and backplate?

A machinist buddy of mine made me up a 6 bolt hub with the same bolt pattern as the 3W & DA's cost me $50.00 but it works & looks great. I can see if he's in the mood to make more if anybody is interested?
Drop me an email
Biglen
[email protected]

On my 110 you drill 2 holes in the spinner back plate and the bolt heads fit in these holes. This keeps the spinner back plate from turning. If it is a Tru-Turn the knurls on the back plate hold the prop in place (wooden props). The tight fit on the spinner into the back plate holds the spinner. I have drill the back plate groove and put a small piece of music wire in it and notched the spinner to fit over it.

6 Bolts through the prop.....NO PROBLEM! And any spinner.
Biglen

My fault

That's a good idea. If my nose cone starts to slip I will give it a try.



I still prefer not having to mess with all those bolts either.

Julius - could you give us a little more description on the
music wire fix for stopping the nose cone from turning.
Is the wire located perpendicular to the back plate
surface?? How long did you make it?? Size of wire??
Sorry not getting the picture.
Thanks

In the groove - where the spinner nose cone goes in the back plate.
Drill a very small hole, press or hammer a small stiff piece of music wire, it doesn't need to be may 1/8 - 1/4 inch.
Then take your dremel with a cutoff disk and notch out for the music wire, I usually do a couple, one on each side of the prop cutouts.

I do this on my F1 race planes, not so much for prop moving, but we use large starters on the spinner and they will make the spinner cone cut into the prop without this.

If you still don't get it, let me know and I will upload a couple of pics.

Got it. Thanks