I need help, my 3.2 will start, but then if I let it run for a few minutes it just dies or if I start to advance the throttle it dies. It is also seems very hot once it has ran for just a few minutes. Last week I flew it for the second time and it got so hot it melted part of the plastic carb orientation extention. I cleaned that up and put it back on, checked the filter in the carb., and have started over on the needle settings as per Brison's website. Still all I can get is to have it idle and then die after I give it a few clicks of throttle. It almost sounds like it just stops sucking gas. Any ideas are welcome, and hopefully before tomorrow.

Thanks

The "factory settings" are just a suggestion...... Open both needles at least 1 turn more. It should be way rich and will run badly, but at least it will stay running. Then adjust the carb so it runs correctly

The 3.2 is a very easy engine to run and keep.

1st use Regular or premium gas not aviation fuel.

2nd run 80:1 Klotz or Belray MC1 or any 2 stoke air-cooled synthetic/Benol lubricant.
This is what the factory runs I know I used to work there and still keep in touch there.

3rd start off with a 20x10 propeller you can change propellers for your application
but if you have problems go back to factory standards.

4th the 3.2 needle setting are posted on the website, don't strain and try to tune your way out of the problem. If the settings don't work you got problems else where, look there and don't screw with the needles.

If the motor is hot and you cannot get it to run up, Stop make sure of the above, check the screen on the carb, (Brison RC AC does not overhaul Walbro carbs yours don't run as advertised it gets yanked and replaced with a new one) check the
TCSA (the setting for the spark advanced) too advanced on a motor will make it run hot, check the plug it should be chocolate brown some are black none are supposed to be wet. If so, check the oil content to make sure you are running the above don’t be afraid to run 80:1 I have run 100:1 for several seasons on a 3.2 (Sachs Dolmar head/piston ring with no problem) don't listen to people who tell horror stories about 80:1 or 100:1 they don’t own/operate a Brison they don’t know....Gary and Harvey do. It's their motor they designed it run it like they tell you.

Check the ignition battery a low battery can cause and produce problems that sound like carb problems. Run 4.8 pack at least 1500 MAH on the C&H Ignition, If you are running someone else’s ignition get rid of it buy Carpenters ignition, his stuff works the best Bill knows A&M, Sachs/Dolmar/Makita/Brison motors like the back of his hand.

If all else fails stop, take the prop, muffler, prop washer off box the motor up send it to Brison RC Engines in Carrollton, Texas, write up a letter stating your problems, Gary and Harvey can take any disobedient motor out to the wood shed and in 10 minutes have it sitting, barking on command, Crappy running motors take one look at Gary's test stand and they straighten up real fast.

That's all I can think of good luck

JDS

Sounds like you need to richen up the low end needle like tkg said. You simply can not take a generic needle setting and have it work for all conditions. So many things factor in like altitude, temperature and humidity. Good luck

just bought a brand new brison 2.4 for my gp pitts .... dont know if i got right prop for it or engine has not reached its peak still being new just doesnt seem to have the pull i was hoping for running 18 X 10 prop plane weighs 12 pounds it flew great but it seemed slugish 32.1 oil mixture.... any suggestion would be a big help

If you have a chance you might try a quality 20-8. The brand makes a difference, if you have access to one try a menz,airwild,3w or something like that.

Thanks for everyones help, I am going to first try some new fuel and see if that helps as well as double checking my batteries. I will keep you posted on the progress.

your problem i dont think is with the settings,but with the EXHAUST! it sounds like you have wayyyyyyyy to much back pressure causing the over heating.I had a 4.2 doing the same thing,turned out the muffler was restricting the exhaust flow causing the motor to get hot,and not draw fuel correctly. By changing my pitts style muffler to a bennet straight stack,is solved my problem.

Finally success, just to update everyone on the starting problem with my Brison 3.2. I called Brison and received to answer to my question. I guess with some of the older Brison engines, the spacer between the engine and the carb was designed to melt if the engine ran to hot. This was a built in safety feature so you potentially wouldn't ruin an engine. Well after finding out that I didn't have enough air moving over the fins, the engine got really hot and melted this plastic. To make a long story short after taking the space off, I noticed a hole that had been plugged up with plastic. Bingo, I removed the plastic, cut a bigger hole in the cowl and put everything back together and made three flights today with no problems. Thannks again for everyones hlep

If your carb spacer is white (nylon?) on an older Brison, it needs to be replaced with the new black spacer. Like you found out, the old white one gets soft in the heat and this can cause problems. That's why the new ones use a black spacer made of a different material that will take the heat. Harvey updated my 10 year old Brison 3.2 about a month ago with the black spacer.