Brison 2.4 starting problem
#1
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From: New City, NY
The first start of the day seems to go well. Choke, prime, flip engine till it pops, open choke and flip and she starts up. The rest of the starts for the day don't seem to go as well. First I'll try and start it without even priming and that's not happening. Next I will prime and she"ll start and run for a few seconds and then die. If I set the choke to half closed, she'll start and stay running. Then I'll increase the throttle to warm it up and then open the choke all the way and she runs just fine. Engine runs great and has never died once it's running. I'm not sure where to look or what to adjust at this point. I've cleaned out the bowl/ screen a few times. Just looking for a few ideas. Could this be symptom of a small air leak somewhere? Thanks.
Marty
Marty
#3
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From: Locust Grove,
GA
What I do is choke my plane off so that if I fly within 30 minutes, I have an engine that is already primed. I would recommend that you choke the engine off. Then when you restart, do it with the choke off.
#4
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From: Halifax,
NS, CANADA
I had a Brison 2.4 with exactly the same problem. After many, many frustrating days at the field and 2 trips to Brison ( very expensive ) I sent it to C & H ignition. He told me I had a weak coil in the ignition unit and that coupled with the fact that Brison's have waaaaay too much gap on the pick up was my problem. They installed a new ignition unit, closed the gap on the pick up by at least 50% and it now works great. Starts very easy hot, cold or anything in between. If all else fails give them a try.
#5

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hi marty,
1. you can allways call gary from brison , he helpt me last time.
2. please try to do the followings basic test/chk:
1. CH battery should be 4.8V with a minimum of 800Mha
2. take the plug out, hold it to the engine body, rotate the rotor were the sensor gets its signal, TDC factury default,( should be at the topest point of the piston with a "naked eye view") see if you get a nice blue spark. if yes than the CH system is fine!( use isolation material to prevent elec shock going to your fingres.....[:@])
3.make sure that the fuel path/line are clear and runing
4. adjust the carb as follows: L should be open 2 1/5 turns! H should be open 1 1/4 turns.(u can see that at the manual!!!)
5. make sure that the white ring of the ignition sensor is smoothly turning and has no mechanical break!!!!!!!!!
6. close the choke, close the power to the CH system and pump up fuel til you see ut drop from the carb.
7. open power to the CH system and start the engine.
8. with 20*10 you shlud get 8000rpm.
enjoy.
it is recomended that you call gary at brison: 972-2415023 ; 2419152
gadi, israel.
1. you can allways call gary from brison , he helpt me last time.
2. please try to do the followings basic test/chk:
1. CH battery should be 4.8V with a minimum of 800Mha
2. take the plug out, hold it to the engine body, rotate the rotor were the sensor gets its signal, TDC factury default,( should be at the topest point of the piston with a "naked eye view") see if you get a nice blue spark. if yes than the CH system is fine!( use isolation material to prevent elec shock going to your fingres.....[:@])
3.make sure that the fuel path/line are clear and runing
4. adjust the carb as follows: L should be open 2 1/5 turns! H should be open 1 1/4 turns.(u can see that at the manual!!!)
5. make sure that the white ring of the ignition sensor is smoothly turning and has no mechanical break!!!!!!!!!
6. close the choke, close the power to the CH system and pump up fuel til you see ut drop from the carb.
7. open power to the CH system and start the engine.
8. with 20*10 you shlud get 8000rpm.
enjoy.
it is recomended that you call gary at brison: 972-2415023 ; 2419152
gadi, israel.
#6
Afterburner, I've found that my Brison engine likes to be started as if it was the "First flight of the day" on every startup, even if only 5 or 10 minutes have gone by since the last flight or run-up! Starts and runs like a Champ all the time. I think my Walbro carb likes it wet!
#7
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From: Halifax,
NS, CANADA
ORIGINAL: gadix
8. with 20*10 you shlud get 8000rpm.
8. with 20*10 you shlud get 8000rpm.
I have a Brison 2.4 and if you can get 8000 RPM with a 20-10 prop I want to buy that engine, I barely get that on a GOOD day with a 18-10.
#8

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ORIGINAL: Don M.
I have a Brison 2.4 and if you can get 8000 RPM with a 20-10 prop I want to buy that engine, I barely get that on a GOOD day with a 18-10.
ORIGINAL: gadix
8. with 20*10 you shlud get 8000rpm.
8. with 20*10 you shlud get 8000rpm.
I have a Brison 2.4 and if you can get 8000 RPM with a 20-10 prop I want to buy that engine, I barely get that on a GOOD day with a 18-10.
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From: Gatineau,
QC, CANADA
Well I find my 2.4 needs to be wet, a good priming to start, hot or cold. I choke till I can see fuel in the carb, choke off, fires on first flip!
Mine turns a Bolly wood prop 20-8 ( much like a menz standard I think) at 7000 rpm, bison muffler.
Love this little guy!
Mine turns a Bolly wood prop 20-8 ( much like a menz standard I think) at 7000 rpm, bison muffler.
Love this little guy!
#10

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hi don
7800 to 8100 rpm with a K-type prop!!!!!!
simple as that!
adjust the carb as the manual recommend,( u can ask Gary for more specific details)
i was a amazed as well.
i use a 95 unleaded octane with a 2% oil mixture,( Molly quly - made in Germany, 20$ per gallon).
gadi
7800 to 8100 rpm with a K-type prop!!!!!!
simple as that!
adjust the carb as the manual recommend,( u can ask Gary for more specific details)
i was a amazed as well.
i use a 95 unleaded octane with a 2% oil mixture,( Molly quly - made in Germany, 20$ per gallon).
gadi
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From: Halifax,
NS, CANADA
ORIGINAL: gadix
hi don
7800 to 8100 rpm with a K-type prop!!!!!!
simple as that!
adjust the carb as the manual recommend,( u can ask Gary for more specific details)
i was a amazed as well.
i use a 95 unleaded octane with a 2% oil mixture,( Molly quly - made in Germany, 20$ per gallon).
gadi
hi don
7800 to 8100 rpm with a K-type prop!!!!!!
simple as that!
adjust the carb as the manual recommend,( u can ask Gary for more specific details)
i was a amazed as well.
i use a 95 unleaded octane with a 2% oil mixture,( Molly quly - made in Germany, 20$ per gallon).
gadi
You must be using something special for fuel or a veeeeery thin bladed prop because I have had mine for 10 years and have tried all kinds of props and the best I can get with a 20 - 10 prop is about 7000 rpm. I won't even run a 20 - 10 prop because it makes the engine very sluggish and in a P-51 I was using the engine in it actually overheated with the 20 - 10, I HAD to use a 18 - 10.
Ask Gary you said, I have had nothing but BAD info direct from Brison. I was having a problem several years ago with my 2.4 and after several phone calls to them and actually sending the engine TWICE to Texas ( total cost for postage and parts about $500.00 Cdn. ) it was no better at all. Finally in desperation I sent it to C & H ignition and they fixed it the first time. Both facilities did a performance test on the engine and both were getting around 7000 - 7100 using a 20 - 10 prop. You must have a good one.



#12
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I have a brison 2.4 on a dave patrick extra 330l. I am running a menz ultra 20X10 on it and I am getting 7800.
My problem with it seems to be the opposite of afterburner's. A pain to get it fired up for the first flight of the day. After which it starts like a charm for the rest of the day's flights.
My problem with it seems to be the opposite of afterburner's. A pain to get it fired up for the first flight of the day. After which it starts like a charm for the rest of the day's flights.
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From: New City, NY
7800 on a 20 x 10. Wow, I think I have to check mine this weekend. I never posted back after my initial post because the next time I flew the plane, the engine all of a sudden became a tame animal. I made three flights and she was fairly easy to start each time. This hasn't happened for most of the summer. Kinda like bringing your car to the mechanic type of thing. Will see what happens this weekend.
Marty
Marty
#14

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hey you guys i have a different issue:
i put the 2.4 on my new extra 260 H9.
due to the engine distance from the end of the cowl i had to extend the engine mount with a rubber/shock absorber kind of type mounts.
wow....
i get lots of vibrations?
any ideas?
what should i use and were i can get it? link?
the distance from the firewall is 1.5!QUOT! in order to the prop shaft to be outside the cowl 1mm...!!!!!
CG is fine this way so i don't want to shorten the cowl and to bring the engine closer to the F.W.
thx
i put the 2.4 on my new extra 260 H9.
due to the engine distance from the end of the cowl i had to extend the engine mount with a rubber/shock absorber kind of type mounts.
wow....

i get lots of vibrations?
any ideas?
what should i use and were i can get it? link?
the distance from the firewall is 1.5!QUOT! in order to the prop shaft to be outside the cowl 1mm...!!!!!
CG is fine this way so i don't want to shorten the cowl and to bring the engine closer to the F.W.
thx
#15
Can the rubber mount. For a nice clean installation you could get some custom standoffs from www.aerografixs.com or cut your own out of a large hardwood dowel/broomstick handle.
#16
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From: New City, NY
I made about five or six flights yesterday. I was closing the choke after each flight like Geistware recommended and that seemed to make it easier to start for the next flight. I did tach the engine and I was suprised( I haven't tached it since it was new so I really didn't know where it was at). I have an APC 19 x 8 and it was turning up around 7900 -8100.
Marty
Marty




