airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

I had (sniff) notice the word "had" an AeroWorks 75cc Yak 54 that weighted 23 lbs. dry. It had unbelievable power. Can't imagine that at 25 lbs. your plane isn't a rocket ship. What does your plane NOT do that you want it to do and how much money are you willing to spend to save a pound or two? As to making your plane lighter, items you may might consider changing out for lighter parts include a carbon fiber wing tube, landing gear, tail wheel and spinner. If you're using NiCad or NiMH batteries a change to Li-Ion batteries will also save some weight. You might also consider changing out the mian wheels. Troy Built Models has a good selection of light weight wheels. Word or caution, all of these modifications are expensive and save only a few ounces each. You'll spend several hundred dollars if you make all these mods.

cyberchild

Actualy wana make airframe lighter, wild hare kits are nice but manufactured very heavy, the plane is very snappy as well, wana take out unneccesary wood,

Thought of making it a toss-around practice plane, might make the plane more fragile, but if it goes, im planning on scrath building a 100" katana for the motor.

pliebo

okay, I got it! it was something so stupid I'm embarrassed to admit it. one of the guys at the field was helping me with it the other day and took the fuel line loose from the carb and put it back on the wrong nipple. I can't believe I didn't notice it. well she's purring now. I apprecciate your help, Phil

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Sounds like there's too many nipples.

airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

My wife would agree. She says women initially had three boobs but God thought it looked too crowded, so, he removed one and used it to make man.

AirWizard

My Feedback: (3)

LOL......I need to remember that

pliebo

hey guys, I seem to be having some sort of vapor lock problem. I got the engine to start pretty easily on the first run of the day, but on the next one it would pop with choke, then come so close to running, but after 4-5 almosts it wouldn't fire anymore, do I have my needles too rich still.( I've been slowly leaning them out over the last couple of flights.) Is there anything I should do different? thanks again, Phil

Tony Hallo

Here the procedure I use for starts following the first start of the day;
Ignition off
low throttle, three flips choke closed
three flips choke off
ignition on, usually starts first flip

pliebo

thanks, I'll try that,

gooseF22

Mike Dooley and TBM both said to me;

Ign off, Choke on, throttle full 5 flips
Ign, off, choke off, throttle full 5 flips
Set for hi idle, ignition on, and flip to start. should start in a few if not the first.

Mine has been taking 3-5 but it is new and not fully broken in yet.

Dont be afraid to take out the spark plug and gently clean it with a toothbrush and gas or alcohol.

Im going from memory, but I think gap is .22 for super 80. someone correct me.

Scoubidou

My Feedback: (17)

Does ZDZ ignition switch work with DA/3W ignition?

rmh

you do not choke a warm engine - just leave at a idle and flip easily a few times -it will catch.
if the idle is set too lean or too open - starting is more difficult
it is a learning curve- set right the idle setting will start and run under/about 2000 rpm.
cold start - the multiple choke on flip(easy flips ) the choke off (easy flips) then check idle - turn on switch - it starts
this crap of swatting it like a horsefly just tires your arm and does nothing to start an enginelike this - it ain't an old magneto setup
you lean the needles based on how the engine runs not how many times it has been run
low needle allows for a slight hesitation when cold . then it is correct
high needle will allow engine to revup then slightly increase revs as it heats .
it really is simple if you think about the fact that heat is caused by a load and the engine is hottest when running full bore and not moving.

gooseF22

I cannot see why it wouldn't. It has standard connectors on it.

qnzkrew

hey guys this is my first gasser so sorry for this question. i got through the throtle arm operation for the carburator now im stuck setting the ignition . i dont know how to set up the ignition magnet that connects to the engine shaft.at first i thought that you just hook it up and boila but now i know that it has to do with the timing of the spark.the latest number i got was 7mm tdc or something like that but this is all french to me so if somebody would please take 2 minutes and explain to me i would greatly appreciate it. i am a fast learner ... thanks in advance

gooseF22

find the 2 holes on the fron of the engine where the pickup mounts, they are bout 1.5 inchs apart. There are 2 machine screws that fit them. THe sensor has a little *** in the middle that aligns forward over the little round magnet embedded in the rotating prop hub. There is a Web casting that sticks up right in between the holes on the motor. Looking at the motor from the prop(front) there should be 7mm distance to the right between the web casting and the middle of the magnetic pickup. It allows a basic advanced timing. Once power is supplied to the ignition,and the spark plug wire is attached, it will fire everytime your little round pickup passes under the pickup. To make sure everything works, you can install it, take the plug out along with the shroud arond the plug, and install the plug wire over the loose plug, it self grounds. and put battery power on the ignition, and move the prop shaft around and it will "tick" fire the plug.

That 7 mm equates to a few degrees of spark advance. Its also .27 inches or 1/4 inch. The edge of the pickup almost lines up with the web.

qnzkrew

goose thanks a lot really for taking your time an explaining that. i really apreciate guys like you taking your time to teach us noobs . again thanks alot. i saw ur post at work so ill get to it as soon as i get home . have to work work work to try to finish my 33% sd yak.

qnzkrew

hey goose sorry to bother you again , i got evrything you said except the web casting betwwen the holes on the motor . i dont know what part that it. i dont know if you were talking about the fins that stick out behind the prop hub. a picture would be greatly appreciated sorry for the inconvenience

Tony Hallo

I measured the advance after setting the senser and got 8 degrees BTDC for those that might be interested, I don't understand why the setting in degrees is not provided with the engine? Most electronic advance ignitions are set about 5 degrees BTDC at idle.

gooseF22

see the web casting sticking out...the fins..right. One on top , 4 total. Its on the other side. If the Round sensor lines up with the web on the other side the motor is at Top Dead Center. Pull the spark plug and you will see when the piston is fullup. THen the sensor mounts there. You can see the upper screw in the pic. the distance between that rib and the middle of the sensor *** that sticks out should be 1/4 of an inch. If you measured it in degrees it would be about 7-8 degrees of advance. Lookin at the motor from the front, the sensor shoud be to the right rotationally from the rib so that the round dot lines up with it just before TDC.

best I can do...on the road

gooseF22

SD33% yak????? with this motor will be a roman rocket!!!!!!

What prop you gonna run?

Im running a NX 26x10 now and will switch to a 26A Vess on my Suky soon. Im at 25 pounds. You will and should be closer to 22 pounds. that thing will be ballistic. It will be a pleasure to fly, very light to the touch,

qnzkrew

yeah thanks goose i will be running a 26 10 pt cf prop im still waiting for all my servos and batteries to get in so i decided to start up my engine in the meantime thanks for the reply i just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same thing. oh and by the way i have the zdz rv not the super J i think i forgot to mention so i dont knwo if it is the same spacing i would had thought YES but what do i know huh.

ahmed_p51

Hi guys

I have ZDZ super 80 and i will install it on P51 Mustang from composite-ARF i have a quoestion if i put the engine in up right possition would it make any difference in the proformance that to put it in inverted possision or is it the same???

Thanks
Ahmed

Scoubidou

My Feedback: (17)

Anyone has tried the new JMB TR-80 silencer?? I would to see some RPMs with Mejzlik or Biela prop

Daniel

dptp9lf

Daniel
I was told by RCS that this pipe setup is the best for the Super 80 unless you get fancy and go with a tuned pipe which is a totally different "can of worms".
Cheers,
Lyle

Mike Dooley/RCS

The above setup with the ZM 26x12 prop, 6600rpm static.