took it up on sunday well run like it should did not miss a beat

It seems to me that we have many people with melody ignition system that trusted the sweat house builders idea of static timing. The guy whose engine would not idel but would put out 8500 rpm. Your timing was probably at about 60 degrees before top dead center. All of my SPE engines were off from the factory. If it kicks back when you are trying to start it hot. Check your timing with a timing wheel. My last SPE 40 cc was set at 67 degrees btdc. It should have been at about 30. Before you guys go to "hammering" these ignition systems, give them to me. I will set the timing properly and use them on some of my old mag engines.

Hellooo, Torkwrenchmon ... WHAT !!, Are you saying - the melody ignition module timing is off and you adjust the timing of the engine ( by turning the timing collar) to it ?. As I said, I have another 40cc, I have changed to an RCEXL unit and it runs great. I set the timing collard to same as the one that's running fine and it still runs the same as I early stated. I have order a RCEXL for this engine, But I was curious to how the CDI operate & to what you where saying, !

Torkwrenchmon
do you think we all Dumbos
i set the timming before i had started it
just in case you miss it this what i think of melody

Well, here is what I think. I would probably question anyones intelligence who uses the word "Dumbo". I also would question anyone who would destroy something that they did not understand. You probably do not know where to set the timing on that particular system, since that information is not available. You must determine if the system retards the timing for start up, or if the system advances the timing after startup, depending on rpm. It could be either, and you would never know. The supplier doesnt know, the manf. doesnt know. That information has to be acquired by deduction which requires logical thinking. Logical thinking does not go hand in hand with "hammering"

since that information is not available Thats right not available no help from spe
just like spe now dead Thank god no one has to go thou this
just in case you miss it

H mm i begin to think you must work for melody

I do not work for melody. I just remember the TIS systems from years ago that had to have a mechanical advance. I am somewhat of a SME on ignitions systems though. There is not one made that I cannot make work, and work correctly. I have built my own TIS systems in the past and am very glad for CDI now. I have been in this hobby for almost 30 years now. If anyone needs help and will listen I would be glad to help.......

i am all ears i still have one more that is playing up now

Did it ever run correctly? If not what have you done? If so when did it change. How is your battery pack voltage. Battery packs can measure correctly and still be junk. 90% of ignition problems can be traced to faultly battery packs. Pull the plug. ground the plug. put on degree wheel, and tell me at the exact degree the spark occurs. It should occur at about 30 degrees before top dead center. You must find top dead center first and adjust your pointer to zero when the pistion is all the way up. Most 2 cycle engines have about 20 degrees of play around top dead center. You must find the middle of that play and call that TDC. Then see where it is firing. Let me know.

the only time run good was on the test stand i ran about 5 liters through it sorry 1 gallon
i set timing to about 28 btdc the battery is a 6 volt 3700 mah

i just got my spe 43cc have not run it but was going to get anew cdi after reading forum tell last couple threds.my hits mag in midle of tdc or close to that.is that what u met by play

have read of this is all you need to know about setting up the timing

http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...structions.pdf

if you wont some more info send me a private message i will email to you

that what i needed

never mine

For Cermark rep. I have a tester that will show when the hall effect sensor detects the magnet. Buzzer and led come on at detection. I know how to determine TDC and time a motor. I prefer to use the detector rather than trying to hold the spark plug and see a spark.

Should the 30 degrees before TDC be set when the hall effect sensor first detects the magnet or

just after the magnet is no longer detected?

Hey Guy's

I have been flying my SPE 40cc for a while now and I have been quite happy with it using the stock Melody ingition unit. It provides plenty of power to get my 14Lbs Fw-190 around spinning a 18x8 3 blade prop at 6480rpm.

Anyways she has not flown for about 5-6 months after she was involved in a landing incident. I could be bothered fixing her[X(], but i have finally completed the repairs and fired the engine up today just to make sure it was all good. My SPE has always been a bit of a biter on start up, and today was no different. she also shakes the crap out of the model and the ailerons cop abuse because of it. On running her today i decided to take the cowl off and see if i could get it to run properly at WOT, because she has always misses or 4 strokes just a tiny bit.

Having stumbled on this thread again yesterday i read that all these symptoms are an indicator that the timing was out. So following all the links and instructions i found that mine too had been delivered with the timing set to about 50-55 degrees[X(]. So for those of you who have had the same attitude as mine of "if it aint broke, don't fix it" check you timing!!!

I'll run the engine up tomorrow after i fix the aileron hinges that have given up the ghost again because of the vibes and let everyone know of any improvements.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_VyREtT0GM

This is one of the earlier flight when she was still running rich as it was getting broken in..

Thanks

dave

I got my question answered from http://www.cncengines.com/ where I bought the Hall Effect tester and timing setup. He recommends 28 BTDC. This is set just as the tester buzzer and light goes OFF.

After 2 gallons of Lawn Boy the rpm at full throttle seemed off. Checking the carb I saw that the carb insulator does not give a smooth transition to the engine. I am working on that and will post results with a 19x10 prop later. Can't use a 20x10 right now since I am breaking in the engine on a Giant Scale Big Stick.

No problems with the Melody ignition so far. BTW using an Ignition Battery Eliminator Circuit. So far no interference with the FASST receiver.

Yep carb insulator and plated manifold need to see a Dremel.

Also no problems with Melody, but I always solder an additional ground wire between box/braid and motor.

Yeah i did that to mine as well.

I haven't flown it since the re-timing, but i have run it. It started sooo much easier. RPM was down a little to 6350prm, Vibes were about the same[] I reblanaced the prop and spinner which were only slightly out so if the weather is good this weekend i'll see how she performs in flight.

Thanks

Dave

I got to fly her today

I'm absolutely chuffed with the results!

She started and ran soooo much better. She is far smoother, and she has also gained a nice deep note which just sounds great on the low fly bys. Even thought the max RPM was down a fraction, she had more power for the verticals and even in straight line speed. The lower idle also help with slowing her down or landing which was also another issue with the model, so all round absolutely wrapped!!!

Thanks

dave

looking good Dave.

Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

Das anyone have experience with this Pitts style muffler ??

I like to know if this muffler will give any sound reduction compared with the standard muffler on the SPE40.

http://shop.rotor.com.sg/show-detail.asp?prodid={8CE2E827-B006-47B1-AE7C-CD2D53E19CC4}&pn=4