ljones5000

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Wow, since that worked, I'll try a couple more.

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jstanton

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Larry

It sounds like you have this thing licked. I talked to Scott about your issue and he told me what you did. I am on my way to bed, bath and beyond to get a cork stopper like you have and do the same thing. I will be going to the local auto zone and see if they have these plugs here in Memphis.

I really like your Wild Hare 540 and the job you did on your installation of the engine. I know once you get a couple of gallons of fuel run threw that Brillelli you'll love the engine. My Brillelli on my Giles-202 had the same problem with the cowl on and I extended the air hole on the diaphragm plate out side the cowl like Scott suggested and she runs great now. I am getting 8400RPM with a APC 17x6 prop and she is much easier to start now also, but your cork idea will even make that easier. How mush does your wild hare weigh and can you get any video of it. I was looking at that plane when I found the Giles-202.

Good Luck and keep her flying

frieshoo

My Feedback: (20)

Larry,

Your edge looks great. I think you are on the right track for atmospheric pressure causing the inconsistant engine in the air, with the cowling on.... Solder the brass tube on the plate, attach some tygon, and run it into your airframe... That will fix it.

Btw, Here's my WH EDGE with a RCIGN G62. It's about two years old, with over 100 flights.

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

I plan on getting a video of my Giles 202 on the maiden flight if I ever get a chance to work on it again. About the issue with the air flow in the cowl causing the engine not to run properly. Do you think if I took a sponge or piece of foam about 1/2" in dia. and 1/2" thick and glued it to the hole on the carb so it would act as a filter that it would work as far as stopping the turbulance around the carb??? I don't have a soldering iron so I'm looking for another alternative to soldering the tube on the plate.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Zippi

I did not solider mine either. I used a small pressure nipple off of one of my old mufflers. It has a 6/32 tread so I drilled out the small hole on the diaphragm plate and treaded the hole for the 6/32 pressure nipple. I then made sure the pressure nipple scewed down good a tight on the plate. I removed the pressure nipple and used the blue loctite on it and screwed it back into the plate good a tight. After the loctite dried I used my rotary tool to trim off the excess threads that where on the inside of the plate so the nipple was flush with the plate. I reinstalled the plate and used a tygon fuel line to extended it outside the cowling. It has run great ever since.

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks Jim, I had forgotten that you said that a while back. That is what I will do to when I get a chance. Did you say if there was anything that might drop out once the plate is removed? Better to get the info now rather than go back and try and weed it out of the thread .

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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If you're not planning to fly 3D with the model, the model's flight performance would improve considerably with more pitch in the prop. If you do the math, you will discover that 6" of pitch at that rpm has the model flying at about 40 to 45 mph (final figure times .85 to account for "slippage"). Flying at 50 mph and upward would "lock in" the model from an aerobatic perspective. Just a suggestion.

ljones5000

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frieshoo, your plane looks brand new, are you sure it's two years old! I did exactly as you suggested, soldered a small extension of brass tubing on the backplate, ran some tygon into the fuselage, took it to the field and it ran perfectly. 'Scuse me, PERFECTLY. It never missed a beat. I am going to have so much fun with this little engine and this plane. Next order of business is to find the right prop.

jstanton, Jim, I don't have any way to weigh my plane but it was advertised as 11 to 11 1/2 pounds. Flying it without the cowl, I thought it was nose heavy, kinda hard to land although I checked the balance three times beforehand, but with the cowl on it glides in like a dream. It is a lot more fun to fly with the cowl on. I have been flying a Zinger 17&6 prop and the engine turns 8000 with this prop. Today, at the field, I borrowed a 16 6/10 Zinger from a buddy, it would only turn 7100rpm but the plane flew better and the engine sounded better, too. I stopped by our local hobby shop on the way home and picked up a 16X8 Zinger, I'll see what it does. Several of the guys at the field are using APC props and I plan to try one of those soon.

I am not sure I can get a video. I have a "sports camera" I bought online from Oregon Scientific for the purpose of doing ariels by mounitng the camera on the top wing of my Sig Sundancer. I even went so far as to cut into the wing covering and glue some hardwood blocks to screw into...that's as far as I have gotten on that project. But don't give up, I'll get there. Anyhow, I could get someone to hold the camera in their hand and take video and the camera has a 2 Gig chip in it. But so far, every video I have taken has used so many "bytes", the resulting videos are too big to email. Probably a way around that but that's my story. You should see this little camera, it's really neat. Very light, takes good pics with sound and it was very cheap...around $100. If I figure it out, I'll post a video, assuming someone tells me how.

Oh well.

Artisan, there is some place where we reach the "right" combination of pitch and length that gets the optimum from the engine/plane. I get your point, the engine drones along, never misses a beat with the 6"pitch prop but I feel like I'm maybe cavitating. It will be interesting to see what the 16X8 does.

Larry

frieshoo

My Feedback: (20)

Larry,

My WH Edge is finally showing some ware. My hatch hold downs have been, glue, reglued, retaped, taped, gorilla glued, etc... LOL!!!! IMO, the only weakness in the WH line, is the hatch, and hatch tabs... but with some TLC they are just fine.

True story, my second flight on the WH Edge... my clunk came off, and the engine died.... Our field is located in the middle of a bunch of evergreens (Nursey Stock.. pines, spruce, boxwoods, and junippers)... I missed the runway, and the my Edge FLIPPED through a grove of Junippers..... For most ARF's this is a total loss... but my Edge only stripped one clevis and dented the rudder..... amazing... These planes are strong, and well built....

As for props, I going to do some experimenting this week on the GT 25..... I'm going to try a 16x6/10... I like the light props, and spool up response..

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Zippi

I had no problem with anything following out of the carb once I took the plate off. The mode to the diaphragm plate is very easy to do and works very well.

Artisan

I already have a APC 16x8 prop I plan of testing this Thursday at the field if it does not rain. I am getting 8400RPM with the APC 17x6 prop and I hope to get at least the same RPM with the 16x8. That should give me a little more on the top end. I'll let you all know how it goes.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I would appreciate hearing the results. I've seen a few guy (years ago) lose giant scale models because of low airspeed (Evra 190 w/MA 18x6 prop in a Grumman Tiger ARF). I watched your videos and didn't see that as a big problem, but I suspect the model would "lock in" a little better for aerobatic flying. Good luck.

adrenalnjunky

My Feedback: (18)

Just a quick poll- what ignition battery pack are you guys using with your Brillelli's? I have a 4.8V Futaba 1000 Mah NiCd pack sitting on the shelf - It's made from larger cells - more like Sub-C cells, but not quite. Brand new. Would that be sufficient for 3-4 flights in an afternoon, or is the Mah rating just too low for this ignition?

I suppose I could always re-peak the pack every couple of flights, but I generally would rather not.

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

A 1000ma pack would run a CH ignition between 90-120 min. That should be long enough for 3 flites

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I use an FFC anyway, so topping off batteries is no big thing. Just bring a large enough deep cycle battery with you.

Zippi

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Artisan, nice looking WH. I looked into buying one of those a while back and was thinking of a Super Tigre G2300 for the power up front. Would like to see some video of the WH in flight with the 25cc engine.

adrenalnjunky, I will be using an 4.8 1800 mAH pack for my EI. We have a guy at our local field that sells these packs for $10.00 and $20.00 for the TX pack. Can't beat the quality and price. I use them on all my planes.

ljones5000

My Feedback: (2)

frieshoo, I also have a 35% Giles 202 from Wild Hare. It is really just a larger version of the Edge 540, or vice-versa. Anyway, I like the Wild Hare planes, they are well constructed with not too much reinforcement required and their color schemes really turn me on. I can't say much for the hardware package, won't buy that again as I replaced about half of it with stuff from the LHS. Example, all those Chinese bolts with the badly constructed Phillips heads...I much prefer socket head bolts. The problem with Phillips head bolts, the screw driver slips off usually resulting in a hole in a wing or something else.

I know, this is not about Brillelli, but I luv my little Brillelli!

Larry

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Chris

Your 1000mah battery pack should work just fine for four 15 minute flights. A goof 1000mah battery pack should be good for at least 90 minutes, but I would not push it that far with checking the battery after 1 hour of use. My Brillelli will run for 35 minutes on a tanks of fuel, but I never push it past 15 minutes because I am ready to land at that point.

adrenalnjunky

My Feedback: (18)

LOL - I know how that is - point in case - last week a buddy was moving to a new house,and had an old beat up Modeltech Magic 3D in his shop that he couldn't bring himself to throw away, but didn't want to keep either - so he gave it to me. I had to repair 2 wing ribs and a crack in the fuse, but other than being terribly ugly, the plane is plenty airworthy. I threw whatever servos/electronics I had laying around, and an old .46FX in it and proceeded to fly the plane like I stole it. It was the first time I realized that when I get over about a 10 minute flight on something, that I start doing stupid stuff, regardless of the plane I'm flying. I think it's either boredom, or a relaxed comfort level, but all of a sudden instead of cuban eights and snap rolls, I'm trying to drag the rudder on an inverted pass instead.

It's amazing what you'll do with a plane that you paid nothing for, and when you know you need to make room in the hangar :-)

too bad though - I like the way the Magic flies - I'll probably quit beating it up so much now.

karolh

I am surprised that your engine's elect ign uses that much juice to run it, as in comparison Ralph's ignition on my G23 can run for two hours on a 500 mAh nicad.

Karol

Sturtz

My Feedback: (20)

I just flew a plane running a Futaba 4.8 , 600mah NiCd with CH ignition on my Brillelli and it tested fine afterward. No super drain or discharge on digital volt meter. I have a 2700mah NiMh coming ,,, but I wouldn't be afraid to fly a couple of flights on this 600mah nicd anyday.

adrenalnjunky

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I got my Giles today - opened it up to inspect and everything was fine. Covering job looked great - no wrinkles anywhere. Those of you that have wrinkles in your covering - are they some that developed after the plane was unwrapped? I have heard that planes built and covered in an area with normally high or low humidity and then shipped to another area where humidity is different can cause the wrinkles to appear.

Too bad I can't get started on it for anouther week or 2 - I have been building me an enclosed trailer to be able to carry my planes and gear to and from the field easier. Gotta finish that up before the wife shoots me for tying up the carport.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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The covering usually loosens the first couple of times that it is exposed to the Sun. This is somewhat normal. Just use a heatgun and take your time. After you do this a couple of times, the covering will stabilize and look just fine.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Ok everyone here is the latest on the Brillelli 25GT with a APC 16x8 prop on this CMP Giles-202. The APC 16x8 prop is a better fit for this planes if you are just flying it like a pattern stunt plane. I am getting 8300RPM with a APC 16x8 prop and it is pulling the plane through inside and outside loops, hammer heads, knife edge and inverted flight much better than the APC 17x6. I am thingking about trying a APC 17x8 the next time I go out and see how that does. Sorry I did not have any video today, my camera guy got a job and has to work now.[&o]

adrenalnjunky

My Feedback: (18)

figures that I just placed my Tower order yesterday and had a 17x6 in it. Almost added the 16x8. Oh well.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Here is how I repaired the landing gear using a fiberglass repair kit. I cut two 1" wide 6" long fiberglass cloth strips then I soaked them in the resin, rapped both landing gear where the split was and let it dry. I have 10 flight on it with many touch and goes and no sign of the landing gear having problems. Here are some pic's to look at.