3d

The eagle tree can use either optical or hall effect rpm sensors

Skypilot_one

1st time I tried I used a sharpie pen ink to "paint" 180 arc. It did not work.
Then I tried White painting and black as shown on this picture. Sanded the surface to eliminate the glossy surface finishing. This worked OK on the ground. The plots shows the ground testing session, the RPM were registered without any glitch.

The glitches start coming along in flight. Any ideas?

BTW Eagletree rpm hall sensor was tried as well. However I tried to use the ignition magnet already built in the engine hub. I could not pick up any signal at all. I guess the gap is critical. Then I switched to the optical eagletree sensor. Worked fine on the ground as I said.

You need to paint one whole side black not just an arc. You would need to install the magnets they provide if you use the mag pick up.

Well, no. I read in this thread it would be preferable just after I finished this part of baffling...

Maybe I'll just enlarge the opening around the plug cap so that some air can cool them.

Anybody knows if I am running for trouble?? I have all winter to work on that... The only real cost will be beer.

It looks to me as if you are doing a very good job so far. You might have to make changes here and there when you put mufflers, cowl, etc on, but that is all in the process of making anything.
It shouldn't cost all that much in beer but it does give a good excuse. I find after a couple of cold ones, I sometimes do very good work

Here is a quick attempt at improving the minimal baffling I had. It will "some what" form a seal on the top and sides of the cowl. This little extra baffling that I am adding only took me a few minutes of actual time.
I will report back on temperature differences once I get a chance to take some. The temp gauge I am using it the one Geistware used in his experiments.

Hey guys!!....i read through this thread and there is some great info on the baffling of this BME 110.


RIK.......i have spoke to you before and a few toher's , and i just wanted to ask about the baffling you have had to do on the BME 115. From what i understand is that with the new carburation and so forth on the newer 115 engine , is that it runs a little cooler....is this right? I'm going to be getting my 115 within the next month (FINALLY!!!) and gonna be putting it in my 33% AM YAK. Just trying to figure out how precise i have to be with this baffling......i think i'm gonna have my hands full here.



JEFF

Jeff- With the new carburation it is more user friendly when setting the needles. The engine also seems to run a Little cooler, but I have not run the 115 in 100 degree weather yet either.
I will have some numbers on temps in the next week or so, but I can tell you, baffle all your engines no matter who makes them. The drop that Geistware and Albatross have seen will make a BIG difference in the power the engine puts out and I like lots of power! Some times I fly pretty hard and really push the engine. I can tell when the motor is starting to get a little too warm.

Ok thanks for the info Rik. It's getting closer and closer for me being able to get one of these motor's , and i want to make sure that i have done everything i could do , to keep it running cool and clean. if i remember right , you told me to set the motor up with the right needle adjustments and just go fly it. And actually break the motor in on actuall fly time. i'm scared *****less that i might have to deadstick on me when i'm close to the ground. that has got to be my biggest fear with this size plane. i think i will take er' up , fly it around real gentle for the first few gallons , and steadily break it in on about 5 gallons , with keeping the plane kind of high in the air in case of a dead stick landing. i am hoping for christmas i'll be able to buy my motor for myself , and then spend some serious time getting the baffling correct. anyways....look forward to seeing your #'s on what the engine is running , and an overall outlook on the way the motor runs for you. Thanks buddy!



JEFF

Jeff-- Have the engine set just a tad rich and fly it like you normally do. Stay away from hovering (which I suck at) and a lot of extended WOT flat spins (which I didn't) for the first gallon or two and you will be fine. You will not have a dead stick unless your battery goes dead. Don't let the size or dollar amount of the plane intimidate you. It did with me in the beginning and I can tell you that it will only hurt you.

Ralph

OK...thanks again man. I don't know why this is bugging me so much. I have only "dumb-thumbed" one plane into the ground which was totally my fault. But i have lost 2 planes due to low flying -deadstick and one from an elevator servo locking up on me in the "down" position right over the top of a 100' oak tree. I think the only thing holding me back from doing alot of the lower 3-D type flying i like to do is.......fear of a dead motor sending my plane to it's death.

I dunno......but i do know i'm getting this BME 115 , and just cross my finger's and fly it high for the first few gallons........no low hovering involved!!

PS......hey i gotta ask Ralph......why the heck is your user name RIK? i always thought that was your name [sm=what_smile.gif]




JEFF

RTK are his initials. He should have them legally changed to W.O T. I fly with him every chance I get. Nowhere else do I ever get to hear a prop rip like that

I am mesmerized by that sound you know. It is just like a snake charmer to me

HAHA!! that's right i forgot you guys fly together alot! HEY....you guys still flying around those pre-production 35% sukohi's?? And SS........as a small engine in the 50 class i have read many good things from you and other's about that taurus 52........after i get my BME 115 , that's the next motor on the list!! seems like those little taurus motor's are pretty dependable!!



JEFF

SS is currently out of town playing in the sand for a while longer. Hopefully I will have a production version in a couple of weeks.

Rub it in buddy, just rub it in.....

We'll both have one of the Sukhoi's by the time I get back from this "business" trip. Neither will be pre-production, but the full production planes. I'll also have one of the new, re-modeled W/H 28% Edges that will be running that T-52. I've retired my Brisons' in favor of the Taurus. Blows just about everything else with stock mufflers out the door! I'll prolly get that one up first so I can get loosened up again

I went flying yesterday and have some numbers to report. The extra baffling in my above post knocked about 30 degrees off of my max temp. I ran the motor really hard, a lot of race circuit WOT and extended flat spins at WOT. I have the sensor at the back of the cylinder which reads about 30 degrees higher from the front according to my readings. My next attempt will be to make more air flow through the back cylinder fins and not escape around them.
Silversurfer-wait to you see what baffling I have planned for the Suk
Happy New Year.

Hey RTK ,, here is a general hard to answer question,, I will be running 32:1 pennzoil for the entire life of the engine Keith told me this, he said they reccomend it for the entire life,, anyway, after breakin, I will have the 110 on a Chapman cap, my buddy Danny Allen will assist me on bafffling,, anyway, how long would you reccomend I stay in a torque roll, I can torque as long as I want to but how long do you think is to long, I would love to atleast be able to torque for 1 minute at the most,,,,

Jon- If you have decent baffling, adequate exit area, a low pressure lip on the exit area, and a well tuned engine. I would say you could torque roll all day
Todd Blose has a video on the BME web site of a 3 minute hover, and I believe he did not have any baffling at all. Granted it looked to be a cool weather day by the clothes he was wearing, but if you don't cook it in 3 minutes you never will.
Now if I could just hover for one minute I would be happy[]

Well that sounds good,, so basically if I have it baffled right with alittle spoiler infront of the exit hole, I should be OK and 3d should not be any different than any other engine,,, ,,, ,, ,, and just as a relative measurement on the first round the patch flights(no 3d just sport flying) I should be getting 240 on the head when I land or maybe alittle more with the new engine,, I will have it pretty rich also,

If you run too rich with Penzoil 2 stroke, you will carbon the engine in a heartbeat.

Why don't you get good oil instead of that crap?

Because that is what Keith told me they reccomend, he emailed me that yesterday,,,, ????????????????????????????????????///

RTK - bro that little baffle of yours work well to say the least - do you mind if we copy it - please!!

Adrian- you are welcome to copy anything I have done, thanks for the compliments. Hopefully you can make some improvements on it and then I can copy yours

Actually, in rcbugman's tests this oil was very high on the list if not at the top. Most ultra-lite fliers like it too.
This is the oil that BME now recommends too, as Jon has mentioned.