RoughLandin

Hey Guys, I wasn't able to get a response from Scott at Brillelli or Ralph as Milton suggested. Milton is a great guy by the way he went out of his way to help me over the phone even though this wasn't his product. I'll definitely be looking into his engines the next time the wife decides I've been a good boy and deserve another plane.

I contacted DA and they have the high and idle needles in stock for the WT-201b carb so I am hopeful it'll be here before the weekend.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

My 60 is running very well but I still have troubles starting. It pops on the choked prime at high idle. Then a few flips later it starts and then dies. This process repeats for a while until it finally does stay running (and then my right arm and shoulder are num).

I wonder if my timing is off a little. That could cause hard starting right? I have owned a DA 50, (2) ZDZ 50 NG's and could start them all no problem (well the ZDZ's were a little tricky).

I would like to know how to check the timing.

BTW I ordered an MSC 22x8. Can't wait to try it.

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Remove the plug, put a screwdriver in the plug hole, turn the engine over slowly to find TDC. You'll feel the piston come up, stop, then go down, but right at TDC there's about 10* that you don't feel any up and down, split that for TDC. Once you have TDC look at the magnet on the prop drive, it's on the backside of the prop drive closest to the crankcase. There should be about 3/8" between the magnet's edge closest to the sensor and the sensor. If you have that it's timed correctly.

3.14xD/360x28 will give you the exact distance for 28* BTC timing, between the sensor and the rear of the magnet. D=the diameter of the circle that the rear of the magnet follows.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Thanks, I will check this tonight. Also I'll replace the plug while I'm at it. The engine has been run pretty rich and I may have a slightly fouled plug.

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Is it safe to assume after the first hard start of the day after you let it sit for awhile you can walk up, fill it and it starts 1st or 2nd flip non choked?

I suggest you don't pop it with the choke on. Choke full throttle, ignition off.. flip 5 times.. choke off ign on and flip. See what happens.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Jake see above for answers. All help is appreciated.

Jake or Josey, do you have a one clunk tank or two clunk? Also do you guys both have the older carb? Mine is the 201WT.

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

I have a 2 clunk setup..not sure of the carb number but its not the original one. Its the one Scott switched over to.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Does it have the two black plastic needles? If so I think it's the 201WT. What are your needle settings? Mine are both a 1/16 of a turn or so over 1.5.

Yak Man

My Feedback: (1)

Joe,
When you switched from the old carb to the new wt-201, what differences did you notice in engine rpm/preformance/transition/idle?

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Mine came with the WT-201.

rcbill

My Feedback: (1)

Joe,
It sounds to me like you might be just a tad lean on the low end. I had the same problem until I richened it up just a little. Now with choke and 2 clicks of idle and ignition on it pops at about 3-7 flips first start of the day. Then flip about 4-5 times with choke off and it pops a few times and then starts and keeps running although it surges a little until it warms up. When it was on the leaner side it would start and die half a dozen times until the cylinder was warm enough to keep it running. That's my story and I'm sticken to it..... haha. Bill

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

Better transition, slightly smoother idle and a little more power

Im pretty sure they are not plastic..Needle settings are 1 1/4 low and a shade under 1 1/2 high

RoughLandin

Correct. The needles are not plastic. Their steel my broken one sticks in my magnetized bolt dish pretty well.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I checked the timing and it seems to be a little off. If you look at the pic's, the black mark closest to the ignition sensor is where it sparks. It sparks when the center of the black mark is on the center of the magnet. The second black mark is what I measured to be exact TDC....taking into account the little dead spot where the piston doesn't move but the crank does. I split in half like soarrich said (thank you btw). So when the center of the magnet is on the center of that 2nd black mark it's TDC. I think the third mark was scribed by Brillelli. If you measure the distance from the centers of the two black marks you get just a hair over 3/8" which equates to about 24 degrees (1 7/8" diameter hub). If you measure from the spark mark to Brillelli's mark you get almost .5 inches which is 30 degrees....which is the number C&H ignitions told me to use for this engine.

So is Brillelli's mark off enough to cause hard starting? Is it that hard to relocate the magnet/hub with respect to the ignition sensor?

Loopman

My Feedback: (195)

I don't know what has happened to Scott Ellingson but he has dropped off the face of the earth. I have tried every conceivable way of contacting him to no avail. I really need to get ahold of him so if anybody out there in his locale could get up with him I'd appreciate it. He can reach me at "[email protected]" and it concerns a carb and spacer for my sachs 4.2. Scott if you read this please contact me ASAP.

Thanks

Loopman

rcbill

My Feedback: (1)

Joe,
Why don't you just use a protractor for a degree wheel. Very simple. I thought they had one on the CH site. I've always used one and never had to worry about measurements and it gives you a much larger radius to work with..... Bill

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

My calculations are confirmed using C&H's degree wheel and pointer. I am getting 25 degrees not the recommended 30 degrees. What a cool way to measure timing thanks to Bill at C&H. The TDC is on the wheel is my TDC. The spark happens right on the 25 degree Before TDC mark (my picture was at a slight angle so it looks like 26 degrees). I'll have to call Bill at C&H to confirm that my TDC is correct the way I located it (the soarrich method).

rcbill

My Feedback: (1)

Forot to mention that I had checked mine last year and it was right on.... Bill

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

BTW is the correct spark plug gap .025" or 021" ? Both the plug in the engine and the new one are .021". I think Jake said it was .025" when I asked many posts ago.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Yesterday a guy had me look at his MT62 which was very hard starting, and ran like crap. I found the timing about 15* BTC so I changed it to about 30*, (this was all by eye), it then started easily throttled well and picked up 1200rpm after tweaking the carb some, so on a MT62 the answer is yes.

Jake once described how the timing ring is set, seemed like a lot to change the timing. If it where mine and I wanted to see if the timing advanced 6* would cure my problem I would loosen the sensor, drill a new hole in the sensor holder for the mounting screw to go through 1/8" to the left and remount the sensor. I think that would move the sensor to the right putting the timing close to 30*.

Waggs

Check out post http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_48...1/key_/tm.htm# , post 1254, in this forum. My timing magnet is held in place by a ring with two set screws. Should be cake to adjust.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Mine has that too, but isn't Jake saying you have to heat it to move it? I never tried to move mine, my 366GT has always run great.

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Actually since the one I had was older that was changed... you can just undo the screws and move the ring on all the newer ones, I was mistaken.

I run 1 clunk for Joe's earlier question.

Joe to find TDC just stick a dowel in there and then find the center of where the play is. I would be surprised if it was at 25 and not 28.. but it does happen. All 60s are run before they leave for sure.


Loopman.. when I hear from Scott I will get some info for you.. I haven't heard anything in a week but I will sooner than later I am sure.