Copperhead Venom 45
09-14-2007, 08:58 PM
#1076
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Mike,
Thank you very much for the update and the prompt hadling of my package.
I am sure Mark will do a good job of checking it out thoroughly and ensuring it tests OK.
Looking forward to getting it back after Mark tunes it to perfection.
I will be happy when I have the Venom 45 hauling my Decathlon through the air and singing a sweet tune.
The updated information in the manual about handling warranty issues will be a very welcome feature as well as prompt communication by e-mail ; phone or otherwise.
Many thanks again for the support and hopefullly a long lasting engine.
Martin aka Dubflyer
Thank you very much for the update and the prompt hadling of my package.
I am sure Mark will do a good job of checking it out thoroughly and ensuring it tests OK.
Looking forward to getting it back after Mark tunes it to perfection.
I will be happy when I have the Venom 45 hauling my Decathlon through the air and singing a sweet tune.
The updated information in the manual about handling warranty issues will be a very welcome feature as well as prompt communication by e-mail ; phone or otherwise.
Many thanks again for the support and hopefullly a long lasting engine.
Martin aka Dubflyer
09-16-2007, 09:50 PM
#1079
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Well, ... changing the subject just a little bit ... I wanted something to spruce up my Katana cowl, and since I'm proud of my Venom 45, what better way than a Venom Engines cowl logo? I went to local graphics company and had them scan the logo and make this for me. I wanted to do more .. (i.e., Copperhead Aviation at the bottom, but that was an additional $10 alone!
) ... but all and all I am happy with it, and it really adds to my plane's appearance. 
) ... but all and all I am happy with it, and it really adds to my plane's appearance.
09-17-2007, 10:51 AM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Hey, it's fairly light. Its 14 lbs., 3 ounces all up. A mix of Hitec Digitals and Analogs, 1650mah Nimh on ignition and 2700mah Nimh for flight pack. Futaba 9CAPS with Xtreme Power Systems XPS 2.4ghz module and receiver. .. and of course, Copperhead Venom 45 engine with Xoar 21x8 prop and Dave Brown aluminum spinner. [8D]
09-17-2007, 01:27 PM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: CopperheadAV
Hooks had a 17lb extra, not much punch from a hover so I wouldent excced that for 3D.
ORIGINAL: The Big Kahuna
To glue coro ( corefluit plastic sheeting)
just lightly sand both sides and use any THIN contact adhesive. The coro will tear but the joint will not come unstuck.
Tim
What is the Max hovering weight for the VEWNOM 45?????
To glue coro ( corefluit plastic sheeting)
just lightly sand both sides and use any THIN contact adhesive. The coro will tear but the joint will not come unstuck.
Tim
What is the Max hovering weight for the VEWNOM 45?????
09-18-2007, 07:38 AM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
I can't find out what the thread size is on the v 45 shaft. I need to get a spinner nut adapter. What product spinners is everyone using?
Bill
Bill
09-18-2007, 07:42 AM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Shaft is 10x1mm size, same as is used on a Moki 180. Adapter nut probably needs to be long variety. I think I tried a Moki adapter nut, but it wasn't long enough.
.... Uh, just checked ... Look at post #398 of this thread for a link to the exact prop adapter nut you need.
.... Uh, just checked ... Look at post #398 of this thread for a link to the exact prop adapter nut you need.
09-18-2007, 06:13 PM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
I agree with Mitsu1.......10x1mm. The same adapter that fits my MOKI 2.10 fits the Venom 45. Tower Hobbies sells the long and short version. I keep a spare of each in my field box. I'm using a Tru-Turn 4" on my Extra 300.
Marc
Marc
09-21-2007, 06:51 AM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: dubflyer
Mark,
Not a problem ....I am not allowed to start my airplane engines in my sub-division ( guess how I know....!! ) so I have to make a trip (70 Miles round trip ) to the field each time. That limits me to week-ends only but when all goes well I can get a few flights in between filling the fuel tank.
Sometimes it is the simplest of fixes that baffle us the most. I can certainly relate to your story .....and thank you very much for clarifying the current draw vs RPM on the RCExl..........that was the key point that I really had overlooked. It is usually not an issue when I am flying as I never go more than 3 flights without charging my ignition battery.
Many thanks,
Martin
ORIGINAL: mfuess
Dubflyer,
Sorry for the assumption regarding your engine at the field. It "seemed" only logical that when someone is at the field, they're wanting to fly. It all makes since now. I had an engine receintly that had similar symptoms, IE: It would pop, sometimes almost run but it would never catch a good run. I fiddled with it for hours on end.... changed carbs several times, changed ignition 4 TIMES! And even replaced the sensor a couple of times. The engine simply didn't want to run, it would pop, sputter and almost fire up. I was almost totally baffled. I checked the timing and re-set it. Still no running. I checked the battery and it showed to be OK. As a LAST resort, I switched to a 4 cell 1900 Mah Nicad pack and it fired up and ran perfectly, aside from minor carb tuning.
It was my battery pack the whole damned time! And it showed to be OK on the tester. GO FIGURE... anyway, I "try" not to presume anything on engines anymore.
ORIGINAL: dubflyer
Hi Mark,
just a few comments on your two part post:
1) In all my posts I have never mentioned that the engine is running on a plane. I have only run the engine on a test bench which is located at our flying field.
2) I agree with you that the only components on the electrical side not replaced at the field were the battery; switch and regulator.
As I said the engine fired each time we flipped the prop............so there was a spark..!!
If there is a large current draw with the electronic ignition then that is a new issue to me and I agree that after running the engine over 1.5 hrs that day perhaps the load on the 5 cell 2100ma battery was more than it could handle. This could very well be the source of the problem.[:-]
I have sent the engine back to OMP for testing so I am not in a position to perform a power check currently.
3) I certainly do not have the equipemt or the knowledge to perform flow tests etc on carbs so I will have to pass on this one and leave ot to the experts.
Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this problem soon and I can finally install the engine in my super decathlon.
I agree with your observation as it now seems to me to be the only logical explanation.
Many thanks for your expert opinion and for pointing me towards a very possible cause and an easy fix.
Looking forward to a smotth running Venom 45
Hi Mark,
just a few comments on your two part post:
1) In all my posts I have never mentioned that the engine is running on a plane. I have only run the engine on a test bench which is located at our flying field.
2) I agree with you that the only components on the electrical side not replaced at the field were the battery; switch and regulator.
As I said the engine fired each time we flipped the prop............so there was a spark..!!
If there is a large current draw with the electronic ignition then that is a new issue to me and I agree that after running the engine over 1.5 hrs that day perhaps the load on the 5 cell 2100ma battery was more than it could handle. This could very well be the source of the problem.[:-]
I have sent the engine back to OMP for testing so I am not in a position to perform a power check currently.
3) I certainly do not have the equipemt or the knowledge to perform flow tests etc on carbs so I will have to pass on this one and leave ot to the experts.
Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this problem soon and I can finally install the engine in my super decathlon.
I agree with your observation as it now seems to me to be the only logical explanation.
Many thanks for your expert opinion and for pointing me towards a very possible cause and an easy fix.
Looking forward to a smotth running Venom 45
Sorry for the assumption regarding your engine at the field. It "seemed" only logical that when someone is at the field, they're wanting to fly. It all makes since now. I had an engine receintly that had similar symptoms, IE: It would pop, sometimes almost run but it would never catch a good run. I fiddled with it for hours on end.... changed carbs several times, changed ignition 4 TIMES! And even replaced the sensor a couple of times. The engine simply didn't want to run, it would pop, sputter and almost fire up. I was almost totally baffled. I checked the timing and re-set it. Still no running. I checked the battery and it showed to be OK. As a LAST resort, I switched to a 4 cell 1900 Mah Nicad pack and it fired up and ran perfectly, aside from minor carb tuning.
It was my battery pack the whole damned time! And it showed to be OK on the tester. GO FIGURE... anyway, I "try" not to presume anything on engines anymore.
Not a problem ....I am not allowed to start my airplane engines in my sub-division ( guess how I know....!! ) so I have to make a trip (70 Miles round trip ) to the field each time. That limits me to week-ends only but when all goes well I can get a few flights in between filling the fuel tank.
Sometimes it is the simplest of fixes that baffle us the most. I can certainly relate to your story .....and thank you very much for clarifying the current draw vs RPM on the RCExl..........that was the key point that I really had overlooked. It is usually not an issue when I am flying as I never go more than 3 flights without charging my ignition battery.
Many thanks,
Martin
I have your engine, PM me when you get a chance.
Mark
09-22-2007, 05:31 AM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Mark,
To clarify the above engine starting/running issues......Is a 6V ign battery too much? I plan on using a 4.8V 2000 Mah pack on my engine. I have read many threads on ignition modules and it seems that if 4.8v is good, more voltage is NOT always better. Is that a true statement?
Thanks for all your time and research posted on this thread.
Marc
To clarify the above engine starting/running issues......Is a 6V ign battery too much? I plan on using a 4.8V 2000 Mah pack on my engine. I have read many threads on ignition modules and it seems that if 4.8v is good, more voltage is NOT always better. Is that a true statement?
Thanks for all your time and research posted on this thread.
Marc
09-22-2007, 06:09 AM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Dubflyer's engine is running great. The issue he had was the primer bulb leaking air. I recommend to anyone that still has the primer bulb connected to the carb... get rid if it. I solder the nipple closed, but any method will work.
09-22-2007, 06:49 AM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
OK guys, whats the best way to prime the V45.?
Flick, flick, flick, flick on an an till the fuel gets to the carb. THEN it starts OK but by then I'd rather be crackin a beer rather than flyin.
Flick, flick, flick, flick on an an till the fuel gets to the carb. THEN it starts OK but by then I'd rather be crackin a beer rather than flyin.
09-22-2007, 08:11 AM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
OK, Stand on one foot (preferrably tip toes) then STARE real hard at the choke lever. About 7 beers later the lever will begin to appear to close. Quickly switch your beer can to the other hand then flip the wooden thing until the current beer is gone. If it doesn't start, you won't care...
09-22-2007, 08:16 AM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: The Big Kahuna
OK guys, whats the best way to prime the V45.?
Flick, flick, flick, flick on an an till the fuel gets to the carb. THEN it starts OK but by then I'd rather be crackin a beer rather than flyin.
OK guys, whats the best way to prime the V45.?
Flick, flick, flick, flick on an an till the fuel gets to the carb. THEN it starts OK but by then I'd rather be crackin a beer rather than flyin.
09-22-2007, 01:19 PM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: mfuess
OK, Stand on one foot (preferrably tip toes) then STARE real hard at the choke lever. About 7 beers later the lever will begin to appear to close. Quickly switch your beer can to the other hand then flip the wooden thing until the current beer is gone. If it doesn't start, you won't care...
OK, Stand on one foot (preferrably tip toes) then STARE real hard at the choke lever. About 7 beers later the lever will begin to appear to close. Quickly switch your beer can to the other hand then flip the wooden thing until the current beer is gone. If it doesn't start, you won't care...
I am still mulling on what airplane to buy for my new V45. It is setting in the shipping box, as I need to order a test prop and fuel lines (this is my first gassser) I have been flying R/C for over 20 years now, I have no idea why it took me this long to take this step.
As Tim would say,,,, Cheers
09-22-2007, 04:27 PM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
[quote]ORIGINAL: mfuess
OK, Stand on one foot (preferrably tip toes) then STARE real hard at the choke lever. About 7 beers later the lever will begin to appear to close. Quickly switch your beer can to the other hand then flip the wooden thing until the current beer is gone. If it doesn't start, you won't care...
Thanks for a great reply Mark! love it!
I removed the priming bulb on Tims advice and just put a screw in the line to block it off. As I did this quite some months ago I may be getting air in past the screw and partially negating the choke. If this is the case, would it also lean out the mixture once the engine is running?
09-22-2007, 04:48 PM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
Mike
I am putting the v 45 In a Great PlanesGiant Super Sportster, This will be my first Giant plane. They are a good buy for $200
Bill
I am putting the v 45 In a Great PlanesGiant Super Sportster, This will be my first Giant plane. They are a good buy for $200
Bill
09-22-2007, 08:57 PM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: Mike Miller
I am still mulling on what airplane to buy for my new V45. It is setting in the shipping box, as I need to order a test prop and fuel lines (this is my first gassser) I have been flying R/C for over 20 years now, I have no idea why it took me this long to take this step.
ORIGINAL: mfuess
OK, Stand on one foot (preferrably tip toes) then STARE real hard at the choke lever. About 7 beers later the lever will begin to appear to close. Quickly switch your beer can to the other hand then flip the wooden thing until the current beer is gone. If it doesn't start, you won't care...
OK, Stand on one foot (preferrably tip toes) then STARE real hard at the choke lever. About 7 beers later the lever will begin to appear to close. Quickly switch your beer can to the other hand then flip the wooden thing until the current beer is gone. If it doesn't start, you won't care...
09-22-2007, 09:10 PM
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RE: Copperhead Aviation Venom 45-30
ORIGINAL: mfuess
Let's see here... if you use a 20" prop, then the wing span really ought to be "slightly" more than the prop. Be a little different... find an airplane no one else has. There's already way too many YAKS, EDGES, and EXTRAS.
ORIGINAL: Mike Miller
I am still mulling on what airplane to buy for my new V45. It is setting in the shipping box, as I need to order a test prop and fuel lines (this is my first gassser) I have been flying R/C for over 20 years now, I have no idea why it took me this long to take this step.
ORIGINAL: mfuess
OK, Stand on one foot (preferrably tip toes) then STARE real hard at the choke lever. About 7 beers later the lever will begin to appear to close. Quickly switch your beer can to the other hand then flip the wooden thing until the current beer is gone. If it doesn't start, you won't care...
OK, Stand on one foot (preferrably tip toes) then STARE real hard at the choke lever. About 7 beers later the lever will begin to appear to close. Quickly switch your beer can to the other hand then flip the wooden thing until the current beer is gone. If it doesn't start, you won't care...
I am still mulling on what airplane to buy for my new V45. It is setting in the shipping box, as I need to order a test prop and fuel lines (this is my first gassser) I have been flying R/C for over 20 years now, I have no idea why it took me this long to take this step.
Andy