I am new to gasoline engines and was wondering what oil should I be using? Also, what mix? I have heard 50:1 with regular oil and I have heard 100:1 with fully synthetic. I do not want to overheat this engine so any advice on this subject would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Tom

Doesn't matter what engine you are flying, I would personally stay away form the 100:1 ratios. More oil=more power and protection from all the reports I have read. Find a good quality oil (synt or non-synt) that is recommended by the manufacturer to be mixed in the range of 32-50 to 1
Over heating usually comes from incorrect adjusted needles and/or poor cooling.

Ditto.

Pick a good oil thats designed to run at 32: or 40:1 or 50:1. The back of the bottle will have a chart to tell you what the recommended ratio is. Follow those recommendations on the oil bottle and you will be fine.

You probably know this, but DON'T get oil thats designed for a jet ski or boat motor. Those oils are for water cooled engines and will not work in our air cooled engines.

I wouldn't run 100:1 in an engine under any circumstances. Does a shot glass of oil in a whole gallon of gas seam like enough oil to you? Most shot glasses are 1oz to the line and 1.25oz to the very top. So, 100:1 is just about the equivelant of filling a shot glass to the rim and dribbling that in your gas. Thats nuts IMO.

It really doesn't make any difference what oil you run. Find any decent brand oil and stick to it. I just happen to run Husqvarna chainsaw oil mixed at 40:1 in all my engines. It's 1/2 dinosaurs and 1/2 synthetic. Seams to be a good oil and it's readily available at most big box stores. I buy mine online by the gallon from Norwalk Power Equipment. It has charts for 32:1 or 40:1` and 50:1. I mix 40:1 with it. I recently pulled the muffler and plug from a G-62 with 8 gallons of that mix run through it. The piston had one tiny spot of soft carbon--oil smudge--. It was about the size of a nickel. It rubbed off with my pinky finger through the exhaust port. The ring grooves look clean as a whistle. Rings are free-floating. There is some light tanning on top of the piston and the side of the piston between the first and second rings. Below the second ring it is as shiny as the day it left the factory with no signs of skirt scuffing. (a sign of poor or insufficient oil)

That doesn't mean Husky oil is the best oil in the world. Just pick ANY quality oil and run it according to the directions on the oil bottle.

I'll bet ya dollars to donuts you'll crash that engine LONG before you ever wear it out. Thats what happens to most engines. It's a rare pilot that can run an engine for 2000--2500hrs without crashing it. 95% of our airplane engines meet an early death in a collision with the dirt or a fence post.

Thanks. I thought that 100:1 seemed kindof low. you guys answered my questions perfectly though. I can't say enough about this site. It has helped me though many problems and given me some great ideas.


Tom

I got my first flight on a 50cc plane today! The flight was a success however I forgot to set my timer and was having so much fun I ran out of gas. I deadsticked her in and I could not belive how that thing floated in. It seemed easier then my small glow planes. It was a great flight!!!!! I just wanted to know what temperature should this thing be running at. I downloaded the BME manuall and it said to run 50:1 Amsoil series 2000 20w50 racing oil. So that's what I did. I mixed 2.6 oz of fuel to 1 gallon of gas. I put a little more becuase of the above post that said 40:1. When I got home today I ran some fuel through the plane and the engine seemed to get to 240 degrees. This was not flying, it was in my garage. I am just paranoid that I'm going to run it too lean and lock it up. Are temps in the mid 200's ok not flying? Today after the flight I did not check the temp but it seemed ok. Thanks for all your help, flying this bigger plane was really awsome.


Tom

240 is no where near hot. What part of the cylinder did you temp??

I used a laser temp guage and I took a reading off the lower cooling fins, top of engine, and were the spark plug goes into the head. The highest reading was 245 were the plug goes into the head and on the lower cooling fins. Middle point of the engine seemed to be at 198 to 200. I think these temps should be good but then again I am not very knowledgable with gas engines.


Tom

You are fine

Thanks for the information.

Tom

Tom, I am not saying that the BME50 cant be overheated but to give you piece of mind we have not ever had one single oil or heat related failure on that engine. I mean out of thousands. If you can wear that engines short block out I will buy it back from you. Obviously I cant cover abuse and crash damage but under normal use I challenge you to wear it out.

Keith
BME

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Now you are getting smart. Do as the manufacturer says and you'll be fine.

For the record, I've been running Amsoil 100:1 in my lawn equipment for half a decade without a single, solitary problem. Running conditions do not approach being anywhere near as harsh as they are in lawn equipment. Especially after grass and other debris has clogged up the air intake, etc. All of this worry about running 100:1 Amsoil in utility engines is a big bunch of make-work for those with neuroses amongst us.

No, I wouldn't pay over $500 for an engine and then run Amsoil anything in it. I would go with the manufacturer's recommended oil products. But most of our engines have been extracted from lawn equipment and are designed to last a fairly long time burning typical snake oil lubes.

Worry - worry - worry...


Ed Cregger