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Old 03-12-2009, 08:37 PM
  #4001  
basman
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

cheers Paul
Old 03-12-2009, 09:00 PM
  #4002  
dlenginesaustralia
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Default RE: DL-50 engine


ORIGINAL: basman

do you have to use a spark plug with a resister eg plug that end with a R, to avoid interferance with the radio gear ? I noticed some said that a NGK CM 6 was the go but I do not know if this is a resister or not.
The DL/RCXCEL Igniton has a resistor in the plug cap, so you dont need a plug with a resistor.

Just use NGK-CM6

Cheers
Old 03-12-2009, 09:14 PM
  #4003  
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

does anybody know if DLusa is selling the 55 yet. i tried calling several times and sent a email and no response. tbm has them but the one year warranty is parts only and i thought DLUSA has one year parts and labor.
Old 03-12-2009, 09:34 PM
  #4004  
mustangflyboy
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

Got a DL 50 the other day and mounted it. First time using standoffs. I used a 5 mm bolt and a fender washer through the firewll and into the standoff. Is that the normal way to mount them? Thought about a blind nut with a bolt through it and then gluing the bolt so it won't turn, then it would be a stud to screw the standoff onto, but I chose the simple bolt.
I don't like the plug cap. Hard to get on and harder to get off. First time I pulled it off the spring went flying. Didn't find til an hour later, and that was by chance, as I had given up the search earlier. Removing the plug and such would be a pain at the field. I would like to see a better design. The set screw caps work great I think. Just my two cents.
Everything else looks good. I can't wait to get it in the air.
Old 03-12-2009, 11:31 PM
  #4005  
giddyuperic
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

Sorry to change topic. But can any body tell me where to get the best props and price? I see that DL usa sells them with the holes in the already if you like right? And they are about 28 bucksis this good? I can't find them at the LHS only one and it was carbon fiber and it was $61.50. I am down to the prop and servo's. But all I can do is look as I said the tree is dried up. I run a hitec 82MG for my servo for my throttle and it seems to be fine. What do you guys use on yours? You know the 82 mg in a small servo, but the throttle is like 2" away from the servo. So please tell me what you think. Thanks Eric
Old 03-12-2009, 11:34 PM
  #4006  
giddyuperic
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

James So how did it run? Did it start right away? how much time did you put on it on the ground? And can you post some photo's please
Old 03-12-2009, 11:53 PM
  #4007  
mstam1971
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

ORIGINAL: giddyuperic

Sorry to change topic. But can any body tell me where to get the best props and price? I see that DL usa sells them with the holes in the already if you like right? And they are about 28 bucksis this good? I can't find them at the LHS only one and it was carbon fiber and it was $61.50. I am down to the prop and servo's. But all I can do is look as I said the tree is dried up. I run a hitec 82MG for my servo for my throttle and it seems to be fine. What do you guys use on yours? You know the 82 mg in a small servo, but the throttle is like 2" away from the servo. So please tell me what you think. Thanks Eric
Since your tree dried up the HS-82MG is fine. A small digital like the HS-5065MG or especially the HS-5245MG would of course be better for centering and lower dead band which you'll notice in the consistency of the engine's idle. A digital never needs readjustment.

For a tuned pipe setup a digital on the throttle is quite crucial for a smooth throttle curve. Engines on a tuned pipe tend to be very responsive at low throttle positions.

And props: yes $28 is a good price. I got mine from DA when I ordered a tuned pipe setup. I love the Vess props. My $0.02
Old 03-12-2009, 11:57 PM
  #4008  
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

mustangflyboy1,

There is an easy way to get the plug cap off. Just get a flat piece of steel about 5/8 to 3/4" wide by about 1/8" thick and 8 to 10" long. Wrap it back a few inches from one end with electrical tape. Then just place one side of the wrapped end between the plug cap and the head. The tape will keep you from marrint the head or the cap. Apply a little twisting motion to the steel and it will pry the cap right off. Very easy and works like a champ for me every time with my DL.

Personally, I like the really tight fit that the cap has. You probably will too after you make this little tool.
Old 03-13-2009, 12:01 AM
  #4009  
giddyuperic
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

Found the HS-5245MG 44 bucks but I can't find the other 0ne. What is the price on that one? I can wait if I have to and it means a better throttle servo
Old 03-13-2009, 12:13 AM
  #4010  
mstam1971
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ORIGINAL: giddyuperic

Found the HS-5245MG 44 bucks but I can't find the other 0ne. What is the price on that one? I can wait if I have to and it means a better throttle servo
http://www.servocity.com/html/hitec_servos.html

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-5065mg_servo.html
Old 03-13-2009, 12:21 AM
  #4011  
T3beatz
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Default RE: DL-50 engine


ORIGINAL: giddyuperic

Sorry to change topic. But can any body tell me where to get the best props and price? I see that DL usa sells them with the holes in the already if you like right? And they are about 28 bucksis this good? I can't find them at the LHS only one and it was carbon fiber and it was $61.50. I am down to the prop and servo's. But all I can do is look as I said the tree is dried up. I run a hitec 82MG for my servo for my throttle and it seems to be fine. What do you guys use on yours? You know the 82 mg in a small servo, but the throttle is like 2" away from the servo. So please tell me what you think. Thanks Eric
The Power HD 9150 servos seem to be making an impact on the RC communtiy you should check them out... 220oz of torque @6v 5 for 165.00 at TBM or Hobby City. (not for throttle)
just my opinion.

T.J.
Old 03-13-2009, 09:05 AM
  #4012  
ChopperMike
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

and i thought DLUSA has one year parts and labor.
DLUSA does not have a one year parts and labor warranty. It is stated on the site (hard to find, it's under the FAQ section) to be guaranteed defect free as delivered, no extended warranty.

Hopefully I'll be firing up my DL-50 this weekend. It's all mounted on my test stand ready to go.

Question. I drilled my Vess 22B with 2 holes inline with the prop blades and the other 2 across the hub. If I find that the position is not ideal for starting is it OK to drill another set of holes at 45 degrees to these or would that weaken the hub? When I flip it the way it is now I'm moving down more so than to the side and I'm afraid that when mounted on the plane this will present a problem.





Mike
Old 03-13-2009, 09:26 AM
  #4013  
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

I would not dill a nother set oh holes it will weaken the hub to much and you dont want it to come at you. I drill my blades just as you have and they work great you had is coming of to the side of air frame and when you kill the motor the prop is side ways to the airplane. you will be just fine.The Road runner
Old 03-13-2009, 10:01 AM
  #4014  
giddyuperic
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

Gooodmorning to all Now would that be the x pattern that I hear people talk about? I am going to buy a vess 23a and they said they would do that for me.
Old 03-14-2009, 08:28 AM
  #4015  
paul5992
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

Here is the warranty as stated by the big two US distributors. And Australia.


http://www.rcaerobats.net/GAS_ENGINE...informatio.htm
Old 03-14-2009, 01:04 PM
  #4016  
ChopperMike
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

Wow. Bob really needs to update his website. This is what it says right now on dlusa.net and like I said, it's hard to find.:

From the FAQ section


Perhaps I missed it somewhere, but what kind of warranty is being offered?

The manufacturer's warranty is that "the engine will be free of defects at the time of sale". In addition to the manufacturer's quality control procedures, we inspect all DLUSA engines prior to shipment to customers so material defects should be caught before they get to customers. We don't test run them though so something may get passed us. If it takes you 6 months to get your engine in the air and you then find out the carburetor for example is defective, it will be repaired or replaced upon return to us.


It's good to know that my engine has a one year parts and labor warranty as it will be at least a few months before my Spacewalker will be ready to fly.




Mike
Old 03-14-2009, 01:28 PM
  #4017  
giddyuperic
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

I would like to know if you guys break in the DL-50 with a diffrent size prop or do use what you are going to run? And what is the most used prop does any body know? I think I am going with the vess 23A
Old 03-14-2009, 02:21 PM
  #4018  
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

I use the Vess 23A on my yak and Edge for every weekend flying but one of the object of breaking in an engine is to have a lot of RPM with out the over heating so yes I could use any prop but I know better one should use a 22/8 for the beraking in, as it has ben mention many times in this forum,
Old 03-14-2009, 04:35 PM
  #4019  
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

I have never used a "break in prop" yet. I always buy what I want to fly with. Set the needles correctly from the start and go easy for a few tanks fulls, that is all that is needed, and I usually only go easy for the first flight if I can restrain myself
Why waste money on a prop you might not ever use again?? A Vess23a would be a good prop for this engine.
Old 03-14-2009, 04:42 PM
  #4020  
mstam1971
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Default RE: DL-50 engine


ORIGINAL: RTK

I have never used a "break in prop" yet. I always buy what I want to fly with. Set the needles correctly from the start and go easy for a few tanks fulls, that is all that is needed.
Why waste money on a prop you might not like?? A Vess23a would be a good prop for this engine.
I also always disregard the manufacturers' recommendations by using the prop I wanna fly from the first run and mixing gas 100:1 w/ synthetic Amsoil Saber.
Old 03-14-2009, 05:11 PM
  #4021  
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

All I can say is DON'T. Don't overload the motor before its broken in. Use a slightly smaller prop for break-in. A Vess 22B is perfect. Don't use synthetic oil to break in the motor, especially not mixed at 100:1. If you want to enjoy a powerful motor for a long time do what the experts do also. Use a quality, ashless petroleum based oil, such as Pennzoil for aircooled motors and a smaller prop. All moving parts need to wear in first before the motor can be "abused". Run at least two gallons of 32:1 mixture before switching to synthetic. Don't mix the synthetic less than 50:1, if you love your motor. If you don't then do what you think is better.
Old 03-14-2009, 05:43 PM
  #4022  
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

Thank you,

You are 100% right,

Keep in mind that the manual for an engine that the manufactures put out is only to waste paper only?
Disregard the many years that it takes to develope and fine tune an engine for competitive production and sales and what the engineers find while testing the engine with diferent types of oil as well as the conclution of all test, when all ells fails read the manual it really does work.
Old 03-14-2009, 05:47 PM
  #4023  
mstam1971
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My comment was meant cynical
I do exactly as you describe except that I'm using Amsoil Saber 80:1. DL50, MTW RE2, Vess 23B, 89 80:1 gas, 7200 rpm, 34lbs thrust.
Old 03-14-2009, 05:53 PM
  #4024  
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Default RE: DL-50 engine

don't know if anybody has noticed, but dl has just came out with two new engines and is progressing on a third.

DL-55, DL-111, and DL-222
Old 03-14-2009, 06:27 PM
  #4025  
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Default RE: DL-50 engine


ORIGINAL: 334755

don't know if anybody has noticed, but dl has just came out with two new engines and is progressing on a third.

DL-55, DL-111, and DL-222
You must be joking!


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