w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The DLE 55 has a very good reputation

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

ALL my #7 drill bits, along with the rest of the world ,are .201
Where did you get a .1995 #7 drill ????
Or get a drill bit size chart..
#5 is .2055
#6 is 205
#4 is 209
Or a new mic

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Your correct!!!!!!!!
My bad Ralph I looked at a No.8 not a 7

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

I Just purchased my first DLE-55 this year and its one of the best things I've bought so far, My friend owns a DA-50, Don't get me wrong it runs great also but the DLE sounds good in all throttle positions but he can't really get rid of his midrange burble with the DA-50.

Right now I just couldn't justify paying the extra $200-$250 dollars for a DA when the DLE pumps out just as much power or more and will last for just as long, its lighter, has pretty much the same warranty (depending on where you buy it from) and parts are cheaper and can be found all over the place.

Just a couple numbers to compare with when we tried the same prop... it was a Vess 23A, he was getting 7450 with his DA-50 with red line 50-1 mix and about 10+ gallons of fuel through it. I'm getting 7500+ with the Vess 23A, I'm using quicksilver outboard oil at the break in 32-1 mix, and I've got about 3 gallons through it now.

I didn't get mine from Jody at Valley View because I got it as a combo with my plane but I hear he is a great guy to deal with.

unit53

sup ,,,,,t,,,,,,, your friend from youtube,,,norm53

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

whats going on? what brings you to this part of town? Still doing those simulator videos?

unit53

im a real moddeler like you bro,,you might find my cheap self anywhere ,,plus i own a old beat up dl 50 that still runs strong,it needs bearings and still runs good,,yeah check my youtube theres more ,i saw yours ,,too bad they took my stars away but ido segev still subscribes

rcfan450

I'm sure it's in here somewhere but can I buy a 55 cylinder and piston and simply bolt it up to my 50 crank case and rod? My guess is yes.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

No. It will not fit into your crankcase. The crankcase on the 55 has been milled to a larger diameter. Unless you have access to a mill to do the clearance work you will have to buy the crankcase as well. At that point you may as well buy a new engine. To convert you need the piston, ring, base gasket, cylinder, and crankcase.

rcfan450

Thanks for the info. My neighbor works in an aircraft shop that builts air plane parts for the air force. I'm betting he could do anything I needed done.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Bolt pattern on the 55 jug is slightly larger also.

rcfan450

I guess that will thwart the whole idea then

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

Keep the 50, buy a 55 and throw the old 50 in a nice cheap beater plane! get a nitro planes yak-54 and have your way with it!

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Sorry but you can't just bolt up a 55 cylinder to a 50 case W/O doing some mods to it first. Theres a 2 mm difference in the bolt hole pattern and the register stub that aligns the cylinder to the case.

craigteffe

My Feedback: (24)

Ok guys here is a question, I have 3 DL 50's and a friend has 1, i had to replace the crank assemly because the rod bearing gave way on two of mine and my friends just went out on him this seems to be the week point in this engine. Can we press the pin out and get a better bearing that will not give out on us? If someone has already done this let me know.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Not sure how you would hold the crank to press the pin out, the throw face is only about .020" larger than the OD of the rod and they are in very tight, heat will expand both the pin and crank throw simultaneously. Pressing it back in would be easy, good luck.

digtman

Now that I almost ran 2 gallons of fuel at 31:1 ratio woth lawnboy oil, what's the best oil for 50:1 ratio?

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Stihl Ultra HP. I run it at 50:1 in my DL-50 and 55 and boy do they like the oil. Wait till you see how easy the oil wipes off the plane. The petro based stuff stains the covering. Really hard to get off.

Any Stihl chain saw dealer will have it or can order it. It comes in white or grey bottles. They seemed to have changed colors to grey.

PS: A lot of gunk is going to wash out of your engine at first. Lawnboy makes black tar at the exhaust port.

captinjohn

<hr />Heat not the pin but around it...cool pin with dry ice & try to press or drive it out. Another Idea would be to drill it out with cobalt drills to just about .010 under size ...so not to engage the hole for new pin. To install new pin heat crank area around hole...cool pin with dry ice and tap pin in place. This is just a sujestion....try it at your own risk! Capt,n

69 roadrunner

you heat the rod and just put pin in freezer for about 30 min. then press with hyd. press or c-clamp thats how we do the car rods and pistons

Craig 01

I could be wrong,Dl/DLE dont supply the crankpin separately and to have one made would probably exceed the cost of a replacement crank assembly and still have the original problem of wanting to replace the original needle roller from a known quailty manufacturer.I would try something as simple as 30mm plate steel drilled and slotted to clear rod and crankpin with crank securely clamped via the crank web to the plate and the whole assy mounted in a press.Place drift over crank pin centred under press ram and load the pin.Apply and concentrate heat via oxy/acetylene to outer diameter of crank throw immediately opposite crankpin,weight/load the pin via the press and hopefully the pin will move and can be pressed out without bending crankthrow.If successful,clean and inspect then reassemble with new bearing using loctite super retaining compound on mating surfaces of crankpin to crankthrow having first chilled the crankpin,press together.

rcfan450

Anyone still sell parts for the 50?

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Even if your able to get things apart, finding a replacment bearing is not going to be as easy as a person might think.

maukaonyx

Looks like I need to ask for advice! I tried to start my DL-50 for the first time today. It has never been run, and I got it about 2-3 years ago from Valley View. I finally finished the Extra for it, and wanted to see how the engine would run today. I couldn't get her to fire at all. Fuel seems to be pumping to the engine, as I could touch gas under the carb. I charged the ignition battery a little more to see if that helped, but no. So I switched to a new battery and that did not help either. Suspecting the ignition, we switched it to my son's plane with the DLE-55 on it, and it ran fine, so I put my ignition back in my plane. The clear blue tube for vacuum looks pliable and new, so I don't think that is a prob. I also switched to another new CM-6 NGK plug and it did not make a difference. Priming the engine with the ignition on, choke on, and throttle at full, fuel moves to the carb as I said before...there is gas dripping under the carb. But the engine won't ignite at all after no matter how many flips. Compression seems kinda weak compared to my son's DLE-55 and even to my glow engines. I have the low and high needles set at 1.5 turns open for starters.

My only idea so far is to switch that clear blue tube for vacuum to Tygon, and to try opening both needles. Any ideas? Thanks. Jon

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Verify thatit has spark first, if it does, does the plug get wet?Closed choke and full throttle can easily flood the engine, leave the throttle at a high idle position. Choke on, ignition on, flip till it barks, choke off, flip about 5 or 6 more times and it should take off.