JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I don't back mine off 200 RPM. Peak them until no more RPM is gained and stop right where that begins to happen and that's rich enough. These are not glow engines and don't need extra richening for uplines due to starving the engine of fuel. That's what the pump in the Walbro carb is for.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

OK, that's a good start. if you plan on going to 50:1 then do it now and mix up some fresh gas. Start with the high needle this time, fully warm the engine up, go to WOT, lean the low needle until the engine just starts to drop RPM, then richen the high needle back through the peak range until it just starts to drop RPM from being rich, then back lean just into the peak RPM range. What you'll notice is there is a range of needle position of 1/3-1/4 turn where the engine holds peak RPM, you want to set it on the rich edge of that range but not rich enough to drop any RPM. This has nothing to do with trying to extract every last RPM out of the engine, it's how the engines are designed to run.

Now go back to the low needle and adjust it as you did before, leanest smooth transition, properly adjusted, it may need a couple flips of choke to startafter sitting for more than a few minutes and it will not accept throttle when first started cold and needs to warm up for a minute before it will transition. Most people compromise the low needle for easier starting and that's OK but expect a little more midrange burble. I don't mind using8 or 10 flips to start my engine, takes about 30 seconds. Now test fly and fine tune, if the engine sags part way up a long up line land and richen the high about 1/8th turn and try again, to much midrange burble, lean the low just a smidge, don't expect to get it all out but from 1/4 to 1/3 throttle on up should be clean.

weezle

Thankyou for everyone's input here. I have the only gas engine in my club so any help I can get is greatly appreciated.

golfandfly

My Feedback: (99)

I need a Pisto Ring for my DL50 . where can I get one?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Frank Bowman


[email protected]

squeaky penguin

Hey guys, I'm really puzzled on this one,

I just took my DL out from the first time since winter. I struggled to get it to run solid in the below freezing weather. Now that its warm, I can't get it to stay running. It starts as usual: several flips with choke and a fire, turn off choke and it starts. I give about 1/4 throttle to warm up, and it runs for about 10-30 seconds and just kills, no stuttering or hesitation, it just quits. If I play with choke, I can get it to do this untill my arms feels like it is about to fall off.

Any suggestions?

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Sounds as though you have it adjusted to run in the warmer weather and the bottom end might be a little on the lean side to compensate for as cold as it is.
Just a thought !!!!!!
Richard.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Pisto ring? Never heard of that one before. Just curious, but what makes one determine they need a ring? Hopefully it's because the end gap became too large. Hopefully not because the engine got so hot the ring stuck.

craigteffe

My Feedback: (24)

Sounds like the engine is either running out of fuel or you need to check the ignition battery they will not run worth a crap above 1/4 to 1/2 throttle with a low ignition battery. Change an or charge and cycle the battery and try again.

squeaky penguin

The igniton battery was freshly charged, and I didn't move the needle settings at first, so it was running rich. I tired going all over with the needles, understanding that it would need to be leaned for the warmer temperatures, but had no luck.

I went through the basics that an engine needs. It obviously has spark and compression. I checked my tank and everything seemed to be in order, so I guessing the issues lies in the carb.

Any other ideas?

unit53

i can allmost guarantee you that your carb needs rebuilding,,,,,,sometimes the reeds get warped just sitting up also,,then there is the possibility you may have an air leak on your case seal,,ive found them by pressurizing the case and using soapy water,,,its been my experience that the rubber parts will either petrify or not seal if left out of service for a month or two....thats in the carb or reed block..oh i forgot to add ,,if you live in or near any decent sized town,,most lawnmower shops will have the kit to rebuild,,,and in the kit will be several different gaskets and rubber parts,,,just use the ones that exactly match the ones in tour carb,,just be extra careful if you change the metering needle,foung attached to the little fork under the diaphragm,its about the tuochiest part of the job..

kruzin55

I had the exact symptoms last fall. One weekend the engine ran great and then the next all I could do was get it to start and then it would die on transition. I adjusted the needles multiple times and asked everyone I knew. It had spark and gas. I was about to change the carb, when I noticed a small crack in the yellow poly tube that is connected to the carb. Not the fuel line, but the three inch line that provides vacuum to the internal gas pump. Replaced it with yellow gas tygon and she started right up. Who knows how I had damaged the line, but the crack was very difficult to see. Hope this helps.

unit53

this is exactly why,i do a smoke test,,im a smoker,,,so it dosent bother me,,what i do is block the carb inlet with my palm ,, rotate the piston so it dosent block the port and blow smoke into the exhaust port,either that or  just use air and soapy water,,it will bubble where ever theres a leak,,but back to the carb,,,they are notorious for going bad when left to set up a while,,and different additives in gas will accelrate the drying out or hardenining of the rubber flappers  and the rubber tip om the metrering neddle located under the diaphragm.ps im no expert,but have been around for more than a minute....

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Hi This question is for Jody, So far I have made 3 each of my own 55 CC engines using the DLE 55 cylinder and piston & ring. Well I got the first cylinder and all was well it looked alot like the DL-50 with the porting and so on. The next one I recieved was a much better casting and the ports was very smooth and clean, plus a little bit larger. The last one I just recieved is totally different ,has the eye brows so to speak in the transfer portsand the boost ports goes down to the bottom of the cylinderinstead of stopping approx 1/4-3/8 " from the stub end
What sort of running changes is this going to do to the engine ad does the case itself have any changes made to it to accept the boost ports being cut that way.
Thanks in advance.
Richard.

squeaky penguin

I think that may have done it! The vacuum line was old a brittle, and appeared to have a small crack in it. I put a piece of tygon on it, and it ran longer than it did a couple days ago. I couldn't run it too long due to noise issues at my house, but I'll get it out the field in a day or so and hopefully get it tuned in and go flying. I'll make sure to report back when I do.

Thanks for everyone's help, Brett

weezle

what size drill bit works best when drilling your own props for the DLE 55?
thanks
josh

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

That depends on what size hole the drill jig has in it, use a bit that just fits the jig other wise it can walk off while drilling.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

If you don't have a drill guide a #5 or #6 drill bit works the best. The PSP drill guides come with a #6 bit, there is only .0005" difference between #5 and #6 bits and both fit the guide well.

weezle

oh I figured the holes in all jigs were standard. My jig is from troy built models, if that makes a difference or not. just need to drill a prop or two and a spinner back plate.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Drill sizes are irrevelant thats why I didn't put any, its the bit that fits the jig correctly that counts.
I make my jigs so holes sizes are not .010-.015 over size like others I have seen.
A 5 MM bolts is .1965 in diameter and NO 7 drill is .1995 which is what my jigs use.
a no 6 is .205 and a 5 is .210 Thats .010-.015 clearance around the bolts, which in my book is a mile, but again your stuck with what the drill jig has in it for a hole.
A 5 or 6 works the best at make sloppy holes for the bolts to go thru and slop around the bolts is the last thing I want on my prop bolts.

trickpony4

My Feedback: (14)

I have a wooden prop or two that have 3/8's holes for the prop shaft. If I need them to be 10mm holes, is there a special bit that I need to buy? If that is the case, where should I look to purchase a 10mm bit? Thanks for your help.

Chris

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

You can get a bit or what I use is a prop reamer.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEGH6&P=0

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Trickpony 4 if you happen to have a letter set of drill bits and a good drill press and vise for it you can very carfully use a X drill bit to open the hole up to where it needs to be. Warning !!!!!!! Since you are only removing a small amount of material from each side of the exsisting hole it will tend to grab and pull the drill thru all at once. That you want to stay away from as much as possible, If the drill press has a depth stop on it use it for say 1/8-1/4 inch at a time untill your thru.
Super 8 really has the best idea with the prop reamer,if your exsisting hole is straight you should be a fat city ,Caution again ,you will get tired of twisting the reamer in a hurry, please be sure to wear a glove at least on the hand doing the twisting. Ask me how I know this *L* Blister city.
Make sure to rebalance the prop afterwards, both tip to tip and the hub.
PS I'm working on your parts, but this darn walk in work comes first i'm afraid.

Donairplane

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Jody, Thanks for the help with my no compression engine this evening! Checked ring gap top and bottom of cylinder, .016. WOW! At least a simple fix, Frank Bowman will be making a ring soon. If you guys need help Jody IS THE MAN! DON.

Born2Fly

My Feedback: (21)

Quick question. This thread is quite long to read it, but I am sick and tired of my DA 50 that I had problems for the last 4 years and crash my 30% Extra 2 days ago because of the dead stick on the inverted flight at low altitude. Anyhow, would you recommend getting DL 55 as a replacement? Or should I look somewhere else.